Paint and Body Finishing Materials

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Just my 2 cents guys but Thinking about all the work put into the bodywork and paint on something nice with all the work you have done on the rest of the car, I would not even cheat on low cost paint or primer. Sikkens is one of the best in my book but other top brands out there are also good. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time save up till you can afford to get the good stuff. That is just my Idea no harm intended
 
GeorgeH said:
:lol:
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Back in the day......Back in the "Good Old Day." You could buy these old Mopars, GTOs. NOVAS, and some great looking muscle for under a grand. Yes, back in the day. My sister traded 68 Charger in on a 73 Vega and had to pay ta'boot. I know I'm off subject, but just reminiscing a bit on back in the day. We are keeping these great cars alive. Best. Old Dart 66
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Just my 2 cents guys but Thinking about all the work put into the bodywork and paint on something nice with all the work you have done on the rest of the car, I would not even cheat on low cost paint or primer. Sikkens is one of the best in my book but other top brands out there are also good. If you plan on keeping the car for a long time save up till you can afford to get the good stuff. That is just my Idea no harm intended
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Indeed, the paint and supplies are bought. Top of the line stuff, and, yes, I have got a ton of work in on the 65, and I will not cheat. Just fishing for some new thoughts for my next project.....A bit of sticker shock yesterday when I picked the remaining stuff up from the local jobber. Thanks. Old Dart 66
 
Old Dart 66 said:
Indeed, the paint and supplies are bought. Top of the line stuff, and, yes, I have got a ton of work in on the 65, and I will not cheat. Just fishing for some new thoughts for my next project.....A bit of sticker shock yesterday when I picked the remaining stuff up from the local jobber. Thanks. Old Dart 66
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I know what you mean. in my world it would break the bank. I'm not going to get carried away with finishing my car to it's best. Plan on driving it lots and I'm old enough that I want to enjoy it not have it in the shop for the next few years getting restored. but some of you guys have done such a nice job on your cars that I just feel bad when people start cutting corners on a high dollar build
 
Keystone automotive is where to get the best materials for the best price. 1/2 of what body supplier stores charge. use a expensive euro clear prevents chips and protects your paint better. It is Very hard and durable
 
I try not to get into a hurry when I want something to look good, and stay that way for years to come. Worried about shrink back? Prime it, block it, and then let it sit for a few weeks. Then block it again, and spray another coat of primer on it. Roll it outside on a sunny day and let it bake. If you rush it, you will crush it.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Keystone automotive is where to get the best materials for the best price. 1/2 of what body supplier stores charge. use a expensive euro clear prevents chips and protects your paint better. It is Very hard and durable
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that's true a good clear makes it hold out better
 
dgibby said:
I ended up using Valspar primer, paint from the Coatings Store and clear coat from Southern Polyurethane. First car I ever painted and I think it turned out pretty dang nice
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I certainly agree with you dgibby!

Is that 3 stage pearl?
 
If you never painted before, new cars especially chryslers have 3 stage pearls....
 
you got me. minus clear....2 stage.


Good thing i was able to complete the job. and it matched. Whooowh
 
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dgibby said:
No. Just two stage.
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OK, so when you sprayed the color, the pearl was in it?

You just cleared on top?

I am scared of shooting Pearl and having it go on blotchy and uneven!!!!!!

I want to shoot pearl, but the thought of having to sand it off and start again makes my sphynchter pucker!
 
Back then we called it a "candy color"
When you had to do a base coat, color coat
Then clear, pardon my grammer.
 
mycuda said:
Back then we called it a "candy color"
When you had to do a base coat, color coat
Then clear, pardon my grammer.
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I hear you mycuda, that's what scares me, 3 passes!

I have just been on TheCoatingStore.com and it looks like a base coat/clear coat, 2 pass option is available.
 
Again base coat clearcoat is the way to go.
For alot of reasons.
Make a mistake light scuffor wet sand next day try again.
 
Doing an all-over with a candy or pearl is not that bad to do. Just have to really pay attention to your overlaps. A spot repair is a different story and some of those pearls are in excess of $200 a pint. They can be difficult to match even after doing spray out cards.
 
mycuda said:
Again base coat clearcoat is the way to go.
For alot of reasons.
Make a mistake light scuffor wet sand next day try again.
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Some paints have re-coat windows so you have to look at the tech sheets for whatever products you're using because, get it wrong and re-basing can turn it into wrinkle finish. Some of these lower cost clears that tout easy buffing for days also stay really soft for days. IMHO
 
Let alone mention rubber and plastic parts
Color difference on multiple stage products.
 
JeffisOld said:
OK, so when you sprayed the color, the pearl was in it?

You just cleared on top?

I am scared of shooting Pearl and having it go on blotchy and uneven!!!!!!

I want to shoot pearl, but the thought of having to sand it off and start again makes my sphynchter pucker!
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Yes, pearl in it. I was worried too about "tiger stripes" but it went on real nice. 3 coats switching directions and it covered great.
 
I repainted my street bike in pearl a few years ago.
It was base, pearl, clear.
Used PPG materials it came out flawless.
Just turn the air-pressure up a little for the pearl, no different than shooting a heavy metallic.
 
1.8 tip for primer filler
1.5 tip for metallic base coat and single stage and sealer
1.4 tip for non metallic base coat
1.3 for clear over all
1.2 for clear with reducer for panel blend



makes a big difference. if you are just learning to use a spay gun
 
Oldmanmopar said:
1.8 tip for primer filler
1.5 tip for metallic base coat and single stage and sealer
1.4 tip for non metallic base coat
1.3 for clear over all
1.2 for clear with reducer for panel blend




makes a big difference. if you are just learning to use a spay gun
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Been using siphon, and now SATA GF guns. First time I ever saw someone list the tips for a painter. Some might guess that all guns are the same and same tip if they are first starting out. Good list to be out there. Old Dart 66
 
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