Paint

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Louie70Dart said:
True, the better paints do use better resins. And it's also good to get more than enough for what you need, just because the stuff, (special effects like metallic and micas) can be very tough if not impossible to match. That's why the chromaflair paints, those are the color change ones that are not only expensive to buy, they are impossible to fix. Oh, what I said about the resins, there are only so many materials out there for paint making, the difference is in the resins. The only "exotic" pigments are the chameleon/chromaflair. One reason those are expensive is that is whats used on money. See the seal on paper money? That is the chromaflair/chameleon flop. Just to buy and store the stuff you need to be bonded from the government to make sure you are legitimate. Place I used to work at got all sorts of micas and xirallics as samples. Well, I got to take them home when the shelf life expired. The stuff is made from mica....same as sand. Whats the shelf life for sand? LOL. Ok, anymore and I will babbling, if not already.
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Great statement!!! As for Nason single stage,they fade with time. If on a crazy budget,check out www.TCP Global.com. Older PPG mixes. The Crossfire Napa is sweet, also.
 
Ive used TCP for engine compartments. No issues. If you plan to paint the entire car use what ever your going to use for the exterior for t he jams
 
AdamR, I am planning on painting the car in a couple of years. My friend that is doing the painting in the eng bay is telling me that color match will be better later if I use the higher quality base now and later. He owns a trim business and does a lot of dealer work installing factory look alike spoilers on new cars. He paints and installs them. Color match is very important for him. He says he always uses the high yield base coats now because color match is better.
 
Some other thread someone mentioned Rustoleum. I was practicing with Rustoleum, so I went with the rattle can stuff for autos. Well, there is a SERIOUS compatibility issue there. When I sprayed a Wanda metallic basecoat over the Rustoleum stuff, it just took ALL of the paint down to the bare pot metal of the 1/4 panel extension. Something else to think about in the land of paint. As is there isn't enough already!
 
HA! years ago I was painting some pipe (horse) fence. used rusteolum primer, where I used their enamel over the promer, it was fine. other places, where I used another brand of "oil base enamel" over their promer,, it feeled. not sold on their stuff. just me.... not always good to mix and match anything unless your sure of the compatability, me I use these " oil base equipment enamels" on treated floors ( inside), they are good and heavy, seal good, stick good,ya epoxy primer/sealer is better but at $125-$200 gal.. why?... and maybe trunk folors, but in the trunk over equip. enamel,, if you use auto paint there, ya better try a spot first before goion whole hog ( southern b b q term? huh north carolina?).....
 
Yes. Compatible primers and paint have not been a problem for me. If it's in a rattle can it probably won't mix well with paint and primer sprayed from a gun. Although you can get etching prime in a rattle can. Works great for spot priming bare metal. It is compatible with urethane paint and primer.
 
russhal said:
Yes. Compatible primers and paint have not been a problem for me. If it's in a rattle can it probably won't mix well with paint and primer sprayed from a gun. Although you can get etching prime in a rattle can. Works great for spot priming bare metal. It is compatible with urethane paint and primer.
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Russhal,

If you have any technical questions about automotive refinish paint please feel free to PM me. I will do my best to answer them for you.

Good luck with your project.
 
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Ended up using the DuPont chroma base and high solid clear. The results were great and worth the money.
 
That's awesome, glad you chose a line that will last for a very long time!! Can't wait to see pic!! If I could figure out how to post pics I would put a couple up for you guys to judge!!! Lol
 
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