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67valiant

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i am gettin ready to paint my valiant and we have never done 2 stage paint(base coat, clear coat) we have only done the single stage and the color i want only comes in the 2 stage, i do not know what you have to do differently for a 2 stage paint be sides the clear and when do you apply the clear and do u wet sand the paint before putting clear on or just wet sand the clear, any info would help alot.
thanks john
 
You can dry sand or wet sand the primer before painting the car using 320 or 400 grit. First you must seal it before base coat,lay your base down, 3 coats average then clear, 2 or 3 depending on brand of material you have. Do not sand anymore after you've applied sealer. Get a text sheet since you never sprayed base clear before from your local paint store.
 
If you apply your base coat color according to the directions, and spray it evenly with no runs or blobs, you can generally apply your clear with no further steps.

You do NOT need to sand base for the clear to stick......the base has a LARGE window of workability with no sanding.......HOWEVER, when spraying non-metallic/pearl (that is, just plain color) you can wet sand the base color to get it even smoother before clear or more color.....for this you would use 600-1000 grit wet paper.

BUT if you use metallic, pearl or candy base, do NOT sand it under normal circumstances, that is unless you really screw it up somehow.

Just let it dry (time frame is not critical....just dry....and then use a light tack cloth to dust it off before your clear).............Then apply your clearcoat..........and even the clearcoat is very forgiving.........runs are easily smoothed out, and you can easily recoat after fixing the imperfections if need be, or just buff and polish.

When the clear is cured, you can leave it with the "wet look", OR you can buff it with water compound and then polish it.......you can wet sand the clear also if need be to get out any imperfections before buffing.......Just be CAREFUL not to burn through your clearcoats with your wet sanding or buffing. 8)
 
To add to Pastortom, if you are going metallic and get some dust nibs in the base, resist the urge to sand only those spots.
If you do and can see where you sanded the base, you will also see the sand marks thru the clear.
You will have to lay another coat of base over where you sanded before you clear.
The deal is- If you see it in the base you will see it thru the clear.:(
 
Oh- and a comment on the tack cloth.
be very very gentle, If you rub alittle too hard and leave a rub mark?
Yep- you will see it thru the clear.
Been there-done that-had to fix it-don't want the damn teeshirt.
 
Are you guys telling me that you have sanded base coat and not screwed the whole job up? I have learned to never sand your base coat unless you are going to shoot more base as you will discolor it. As far as how many coats, you can ignore the tech sheet and use your eyes instead. You'll need LOTS of light to see if you got full covereage. I just shot some Dupont Chromabase which according to the sheet should cover in 2-3 coats, try 7. You shoot base quite differently that clear or SS, the base will streak and mottle if you shoot it too wet. Clear and SS are similar, full wet coats until it nearly runs.
 
alright thanks alot guys im going to go and try and find the color i want in single stage but if it comes down to 2 stage u guys helped me alot
 
Rob said:
Are you guys telling me that you have sanded base coat and not screwed the whole job up? I have learned to never sand your base coat unless you are going to shoot more base as you will discolor it. As far as how many coats, you can ignore the tech sheet and use your eyes instead. You'll need LOTS of light to see if you got full covereage. I just shot some Dupont Chromabase which according to the sheet should cover in 2-3 coats, try 7. You shoot base quite differently that clear or SS, the base will streak and mottle if you shoot it too wet. Clear and SS are similar, full wet coats until it nearly runs.
Click to expand...

Have ever painted before? 7 coats of base? Holy crap!
base can be sanded down, removing any imperfections in the sealer or base such as orange peal or dust nibs etc...
base can go on med to wet all three times w/o any issues.
50% over-lap every time, whether your spraying single stage, base coat, clear, whatever.
Being consistant is the key obviously. And yes, do what the tech sheets tell you to do, other wise, your gonna run into more serious issues than modeling, runs etc...
I've only been painting for the last 20 plus years.
Knowing what brand of paint the first guy is going to use would help also. They all spray differently, lay out I should say as well as type of paint guns.
HVLP and which gun tip.

I neee to edit, proper air flow where ever your painting, hopefully in a paint booth is a must as well.
 
Alaskan_Dart said:
Have ever painted before? 7 coats of base? Holy crap!
base can be sanded down, removing any imperfections in the sealer or base such as orange peal or dust nibs etc...
base can go on med to wet all three times w/o any issues.
50% over-lap every time, whether your spraying single stage, base coat, clear, whatever.
Being consistant is the key obviously. And yes, do what the tech sheets tell you to do, other wise, your gonna run into more serious issues than modeling, runs etc...
I've only been painting for the last 20 plus years.
Knowing what brand of paint the first guy is going to use would help also. They all spray differently, lay out I should say as well as type of paint guns.
HVLP and which gun tip.

I neee to edit, proper air flow where ever your painting, hopefully in a paint booth is a must as well.
Click to expand...

I assume you meant to say "Have I ever painted before" and yes all the time, there are base coats that don't cover well especially metallics and putting them on too wet causes problems, any painter will tell you that, well except one I guess. You put enough coats on to get complete coverage, well I do. Anyway wasn't here to start a pissing contest, go ahead and shoot two coats of base, hope it covers and then sand it. I've sanded it and totally discolered it so I know I won't, also shot 3 coats and had incomplete coverage. I'm sure I spray different than you so to each his own.
 
....to the question about sanding base, YES you can sand it....wet sanding marks will not show up through the clear.........BUT, those ruddy tack cloth marks WILL, so take the advice.......LIGHTLY, as I said.

Acrylic lacquers act almost exactly the same as modern bases.......You can sand them down and smooth them out as much as desired, BUT, when sanding down a pearl or a metallic, you MUST even it out with more on top to have a uniform smooth color....if you have to sand a candy, you may as well strip it and start over....you'll never match it.

Modern bases have a BIG window when it comes to re-coating without re-sanding........lacquers were miserable....the window was very short. Wet sanding, or "color sanding" should only be done over colored bases with no metal or pearl, UNLESS you're going to fog it again with more color to even it all out.

Base/clear is a VERY forgiving system.......just be very careful with metallics and pearls.
 
I never said two coats of base will cover anything. I typed fast due to your repsonse, my bad.
But 7 coats, holy crap again! Are YOU using the correct color choice or recommended sealer before base coat?
Also, it's not to often a base coat needs to be sanded down completely, just nib where need be the re-coat as many times as needed to cover area sanded.
Blending not just spot touch up. Once agaian, I'm not hammering on you dude, just trying to explain the correct, sorry, help answer the question and proper technic.
What type of paint gun are you using and tip? Sounds like you've delt w/more problem paint issues than I ever have.

I see you live in Victoria, BC. I used to live in Port Angeles accross the bay from you, interesting.
 
I'm using an Iwata LPH400LPX with a 1.4 tip , the LPX is a fairly new cap specifically for base coats. Before that I used a Sata RP with a 1.3, I still use that for clear. The 7 coats is a little misleading, I shot 4 coats last time and didn't get complete coverage as crazy as that sounds but again I don't hose on my base as, at least for me it tiger stripes the **** out of it. Anyway, as 4 coats didn't cover I went with 5 and then cross hatched it so you can count that as one or two and in relative terms they are very light coats at the end. The point I was trying to make is, use your eyes, if the tech sheet says 2 - 3 coats will cover and you can clearly see it didn't keep spraying until it does. If you could pound on the base without issues I would imagine 3 coats could possibly cover over maybe a tinted primer sealer. The last two I've done were both in Mazda Winning Blue Metallic, my daughters Camaro and now my son's tow truck, I just sprayed the truck so some assemblty required. Here's a picture of the Camaro, warning the following image may offend some viewers, it is a Chevy. Port Angeles is just a stones throw away, what made you move to Alaska?

Cam1b.jpg


DSC00531.jpg
 
Born and raised here, lived down there for 8 years. But we can't wait to move back also.
The Iwata gun, is that the new one w/the Orange cap? I demoed that gun, didn't feel compfortable for my type of spraying.
I also lay my base coats down med more than wet. Last coat I put down more wet then the others.
I use DeVilbiss guns new GTI Mil style, I have three.
Also I use a the Sharpe SGF w/a 1.5 tip for sealers, single stage.
And true, your eyes don't lie. Maybe I should re-phrase my answer.
Finish according to how it looks, spray pattern is very important as well.
I shoot Dupont every day as well as PPG, and RM an Martin Senour. Yep, I shoot it all due to customer needs and what has been applied to car/truck/motorhome previously.
And on a funny note, they are not called runs, they are called *maximum flow indicators*...ha-ha
camaro looks good, was it a Rallye Type 1977?
Mark

Edit: The RS in the grille is a good indicator what it is, if I had just paid attention before asking, ha. Looks good, so what if it's a GM, it's a cruiser!
 
I've never been up there but I hear it's beautiful country.

Yup, that's the one with the orange cap, just got it recently, I need to play with it some more, the inlet pressure is a lot lower than what I'm used to. I do full restorations on the side so I'm far from a production painter. I have a Sata RP with a 1.6 tip for primers and one with a 2.5 for SLicksand as well.

The Camaro is an 81 RS but they're pretty much all the same from 74 - 81, slight difference in the nose and tail panel from 78 up.

I had a "maximum flow indicator" on the hood I shot last week, it doesn't happen often but it does happen :angry7:
 
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