painting

-
barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
20,544
Reaction score
10,162
Location
Shepherd, Texas ( SE Tx)
they keep moving my question to garage and tools and maybe where it should be. but maybe more painters here? isn't this is where the body work tutorial resides????? gonna get new gun for topcoat, want adequate and affordable. anyone with experience e with tip size? lookin at gravity gun. my siphon gun always has more material in can than I want to toss.
anyone use gun from TCP Global???
lets see I neeed to ask proper question for this to sit here long enough for a paint guy to might see it? thanks for any advice.......
 
I use TCP global for paint out of their restoration line. their tech sheets will tell you the optimum tip size. generally for top coats, its in the 1.5 to 1.8 range. I find that a 1.6 does the job, but I have used up to a 1.8. I bought this gun from summit racing, dirt cheap http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-m711/overview/ works decent, but you may want a bigger canister if you are doing an entire vehicle. its all in your prep and gun set-up. I use 2 filters between my compressor and gun. I am not a pro, but I get good results.
 

Attachments

  • d360.jpg
    39.8 KB · Views: 321
73AbodEE said:
I use TCP global for paint out of their restoration line. their tech sheets will tell you the optimum tip size. generally for top coats, its in the 1.5 to 1.8 range. I find that a 1.6 does the job, but I have used up to a 1.8. I bought this gun from summit racing, dirt cheap http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-m711/overview/ works decent, but you may want a bigger canister if you are doing an entire vehicle. its all in your prep and gun set-up. I use 2 filters between my compressor and gun. I am not a pro, but I get good results.
Click to expand...


that's a HVLP gun. so you are able to use with conventional compressor??
that's, I will look some more under summit, I know you can get a gravity gun set up for conventional air.
also does anyone know how long I need for high fill urethane primer to have time to shrink if any?????
the car i'm working on is rust free.... 65 273 cuda. the p o X2 had d a it down and lef t it for 8-9 mo!! LOL I cleaned it back up, shot it with metal etch primer , then epoxy primer and then 2 coats of urethane high build. wow it makes me feel SO good to get it covered!!! I know pics, will get some.....
 
barbee6043 said:
that's a HVLP gun. so you are able to use with conventional compressor??
that's, I will look some more under summit, I know you can get a gravity gun set up for conventional air.
also does anyone know how long I need for high fill urethane primer to have time to shrink if any?????
the car i'm working on is rust free.... 65 273 cuda. the p o X2 had d a it down and lef t it for 8-9 mo!! LOL I cleaned it back up, shot it with metal etch primer , then epoxy primer and then 2 coats of urethane high build. wow it makes me feel SO good to get it covered!!! I know pics, will get some.....
Click to expand...

what do you mean by conventional compressor? as long as it can keep 60 psi at all times , you shouldn't have a problem. cure times are around 18-24 hours
I don't know what brand you are using , but here is a tech sheet for summits 2k urethane primer

[ame="http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/2k%20primers.pdf"]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/2k%20primers.pdf[/ame]

I use my siphon feed set-up strictly for primer and then use my hvlp for top coats
 
I have the TPC global kit with three guns. Touch up gun with 1.0 tip, a Base/clear gun with 1.4 tip, and a primer gun with a 1.8 tip. They all work well for a reasonable price. -pauly
 
I havn't painted in many years. 20 yrs ago, I had young guy , back where I used to live, that did my bodypaint work. he had a hvlp system. seemed like a square box ( compressor?) ran the deal. I look at ads now and see screw compressors etc, I look under Campbell hausfeld and a syste, talks about 6 psi- 65 cfm. I assume not auto paint set up?
I have several early A cars that are my projects. I HAVE to do the work myself. goal is to have decent lookin drivers, I don't care for the BB/CC look. I will use urethane. I did paint work on my cars 20 years ago but had issues with allergies and the paint. havn't picked up a gun since till yesterday... I have modern respirator and the primers didn't seem to bother me yesterday.
here's where i'm at. I picked up used twin stage compressor. it has issues. putting oil into tank, drain tank and milky. I have oil and moisture traps, and filter at gun. I will either have to repair it and have separate air system for painting. i'm amazed I got no contamination in primer.
so with the hvlp , you simply regulate peak cfm at tank and then set it at LOW pressure at gun??? please bear with me, i'm a dinosaur!!!! I do like the idea of wasting less paint at the gun. ( dine on hotdogs 2 weeks to afford gal of primer!!!!!)
 
barbee6043 said:
I havn't painted in many years. 20 yrs ago, I had young guy , back where I used to live, that did my bodypaint work. he had a hvlp system. seemed like a square box ( compressor?) ran the deal. I look at ads now and see screw compressors etc, I look under Campbell hausfeld and a syste, talks about 6 psi- 65 cfm. I assume not auto paint set up?
I have several early A cars that are my projects. I HAVE to do the work myself. goal is to have decent lookin drivers, I don't care for the BB/CC look. I will use urethane. I did paint work on my cars 20 years ago but had issues with allergies and the paint. havn't picked up a gun since till yesterday... I have modern respirator and the primers didn't seem to bother me yesterday.
here's where i'm at. I picked up used twin stage compressor. it has issues. putting oil into tank, drain tank and milky. I have oil and moisture traps, and filter at gun. I will either have to repair it and have separate air system for painting. i'm amazed I got no contamination in primer.
so with the hvlp , you simply regulate peak cfm at tank and then set it at LOW pressure at gun??? please bear with me, i'm a dinosaur!!!! I do like the idea of wasting less paint at the gun. ( dine on hotdogs 2 weeks to afford gal of primer!!!!!)
Click to expand...

im in the same boat, I have to do the paint and body myself. I have 2 cheap harbor freight 8 gallon compressors that i run in tandem to fill a 25 gallon reserve tank from the bottom drain. at the top I have moisture trap , filter , then a regulator set at 120 psi. I drain my tanks and top off my oil in the compressors after every use. i then have a filter/regulator at the gun which i set at 50 psi. my compressors are enough to keep it steady. i just kind of guess what psi i have at the cap as im using scrap to dail in the gun.
just this morning i went to the auto paint shop to get a gallon of 2k high build urethane primer, the meathead wanted to charge me 179.00 for the paint and activator, i couldn't believe it so i walked out, because the last time i was in there ,it was only 80 bucks for the same exact stuff a year ago. i ordered it from summit , same stuff, 65.00 including activator.
i know what its like trying to save a little money. that blue 77 charger i painted is electric blue metallic single stage from TCP global. i am about to use the same paint, different shade and process for my 74 charger. i have learned to do it by trail and error, the better the prep, the better the results. i learn a little more every time i mix up a batch of paint.
 

Attachments

  • a31.jpg
    53.5 KB · Views: 283
Go on youtube & search Kevin Tetz. He does great tutorials on how to set up a gun, what you need for a compressor & painting techniques. He explains things real well & has a set of DVDs to guide you even more.
 
Do not paint your car any type of enamal without using an additive to cure it.
 
73AbodEE said:
im in the same boat, I have to do the paint and body myself. I have 2 cheap harbor freight 8 gallon compressors that i run in tandem to fill a 25 gallon reserve tank from the bottom drain. at the top I have moisture trap , filter , then a regulator set at 120 psi. I drain my tanks and top off my oil in the compressors after every use. i then have a filter/regulator at the gun which i set at 50 psi. my compressors are enough to keep it steady. i just kind of guess what psi i have at the cap as im using scrap to dail in the gun.
just this morning i went to the auto paint shop to get a gallon of 2k high build urethane primer, the meathead wanted to charge me 179.00 for the paint and activator, i couldn't believe it so i walked out, because the last time i was in there ,it was only 80 bucks for the same exact stuff a year ago. i ordered it from summit , same stuff, 65.00 including activator.
i know what its like trying to save a little money. that blue 77 charger i painted is electric blue metallic single stage from TCP global. i am about to use the same paint, different shade and process for my 74 charger. i have learned to do it by trail and error, the better the prep,

the better the results. i learn a little more every time i mix up a batch of paint.
Click to expand...

looks good guy!. surely it was enamel with the hardner!!!
the satisfaction we get from doing body paint work is imeasurable for lot of us. plus many of can't afford or find body man to do these old cars!!!!
lets face it, most of guys in the hobby are self taught: mechanic, welders, bodymen, paints, and parts gurus!! LOL
when I have a question, I look to anyone with the knowledge to help me and I ask!!
and yes, you are right, the finish will NO better than the prep!!
 
here is what I used , if you are interested to know. well worth the 100 bucks
[URL="http://images.tcpglobal.com/rsp/newbody/rsp2506gal.jpg"][/URL]
Electric Blue Metallic Gallon Kit Single Stage ACRYLIC ENAMEL Car Auto Paint Kit

A Complete Auto Paint Kit that will give you the High Quality Finish that you have been looking for!

NOTE: Monitors vary - onscreen colors are for general color reference only.

This ACRYLIC ENAMEL KIT Includes:

  • 1 - Gallon of Restoration Shop Acrylic Enamel Color
  • 1 - Pint of Wet-Look Polyurethane Hardener ( RSP AU4001-PT )
  • 5 - EA Quality 190 Micron Nylon Automotive Strainers
  • 5 - EA Wood Paint Mixing Sticks
No reducer required (optional)

Our Restoration Shop High Quality Acrylic Enamel Paint System is a Single Stage System designed for overall automobile refinishing or as a fleet and equipment finish. This extremely easy to use Paint System retains color and gloss, while resisting the elements.
This Restoration Shop Automotive Acrylic Enamel (AE) Kit contains the exact amount required to obtain the 8:1 Mix Ratio. Mix 8 parts Acrylic Enamel (AE) Color, 1 part AU4001 Hardener. Our Restoration Shop Automotive Acrylic Enamel Paint System provides you with a High Quality Urethane Hardener enhancer that enables you to achieve a Deep Glossy Wet-Look Shine that will last for years. This paint mixture will enable you to achieve the high quality finish that you have been looking for!
OPTIONAL REDUCER MAY BE ADDED
For 2.8voc: use XR60, XR70, or XR85
For 3.5voc: use KR60, KR70, or KR85
 
acrylic emanel with the h.ardner. that's what ma mopar used back in the day. I've used it too and it can make a pretty job if laid down right. I've seen guys that made it look like wet all the time.. i'm no expert, but the body guys I know will say the durability factor is what can separate paints. I would imagine makes lots of difference if it stays inside out of sunlight. \
that blue is pretty for sure. nice job...
 
73AbodEE said:
here is what I used , if you are interested to know. well worth the 100 bucks
[URL="http://images.tcpglobal.com/rsp/newbody/rsp2506gal.jpg"][/URL]
Electric Blue Metallic Gallon Kit Single Stage ACRYLIC ENAMEL Car Auto Paint Kit

A Complete Auto Paint Kit that will give you the High Quality Finish that you have been looking for!

NOTE: Monitors vary - onscreen colors are for general color reference only.

This ACRYLIC ENAMEL KIT Includes:

  • 1 - Gallon of Restoration Shop Acrylic Enamel Color
  • 1 - Pint of Wet-Look Polyurethane Hardener ( RSP AU4001-PT )
  • 5 - EA Quality 190 Micron Nylon Automotive Strainers
  • 5 - EA Wood Paint Mixing Sticks
No reducer required (optional)

Our Restoration Shop High Quality Acrylic Enamel Paint System is a Single Stage System designed for overall automobile refinishing or as a fleet and equipment finish. This extremely easy to use Paint System retains color and gloss, while resisting the elements.
This Restoration Shop Automotive Acrylic Enamel (AE) Kit contains the exact amount required to obtain the 8:1 Mix Ratio. Mix 8 parts Acrylic Enamel (AE) Color, 1 part AU4001 Hardener. Our Restoration Shop Automotive Acrylic Enamel Paint System provides you with a High Quality Urethane Hardener enhancer that enables you to achieve a Deep Glossy Wet-Look Shine that will last for years. This paint mixture will enable you to achieve the high quality finish that you have been looking for!
OPTIONAL REDUCER MAY BE ADDED
For 2.8voc: use XR60, XR70, or XR85
For 3.5voc: use KR60, KR70, or KR85
Click to expand...

Lance, will they mix factory colors, I.e. B5 blue?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top