Petronix thoughts

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salinasjoel

salinasjoel

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I have a 65 273 and I am getting rid of my dual points distributor for the obvious reason of not wanting to fool with it. I have a mopar distributor oem that the previous owner slapped a petronix box in. I also have an orange box and wiring harness so I could buy a electronic dizzy if necessary. But I just wanted thoughts on the petronix as I have never tried one. It's just a street car so I'm not really concerned with power or ability to handle it, but I just can't grasp how this simple magnetic box does everything without an ecu.
Thanks
Joel
 
we had pertronix in jamies 69 dart. worked great, never had any issues with it.. had the car for like 7 years or so.
 
The original (Ignitor I) is similar to the Mopar ECU and still needs a ballast resistor (I think). I would run that instead of the orange box, since those are problematic. Sell that to someone already wired for it. I plan that for the orange box I got before I changed my mind. Ignitor II is better and allows you to lose the ballast and run a better E-core coil. Ignitor III adds multi-spark.

Other options - new distributor w/ integral HEI module ($45 ebay "ready to run"), GM 8-pin HEI module w/ GM coil but requires an E-distributor.

All these little modules work by the power of semiconductors. They can be much smaller than the orange box because they are more efficient so don't generate as much waste heat and require large heat sinks. If you want more punch, checkout the MSD Stacker (original model), which you can add in parallel.
 
BillGrissom said:
Other options - new distributor w/ integral HEI module ($45 ebay "ready to run")...
Click to expand...

I'm running the eBay distributor with a Flame Thrower II coil and I like it. Mileage went up about 2 mpg over the Chrysler electronic ignition installed by the previous owner. I got rid of the ballast resistor, the orange box and some underhood wiring.

BUT, I had one failure of the module which I believe was caused by misalignment of the locating pins which prevented the chip from making a good thermal contact with the heat sink. Skip White (eBay seller) sent me a new chip. I shaved off the locating pins with a razor blade and installed the chip with some PC thermal paste and it's been running fine since. If you buy one, check to make sure the chip is tight against the heat sink before you run it.

I have no idea if the curve is right for my engine, but it runs nice and gas mileage did improve.
 
have had several cars that have pertronix. absolutely had no problems. currently have two slant sixes with them.
highly recommend.
 
Hey thanks guys. It is an ignitor 1 so I will need a ballast. Will I need a different one then I have for the dual point or will my current ballast be sufficient? And is really as simple as hooking the 2 wires into my hot and cold side of the coil?
 
I definately would go the Petronix system. I am running it on 4 cars now and it works well. The 66 Barracuda has a dual point with the Petronix in it and works very good too. Only way to go.
 
I'v been running a pertronix unit in my superbird for close to 10 years now and I love it. I'v never had a problem, but just in case, I carry a set of points and condenser in the glove box in case it ever failed. You can easily change back to a points set-up if need be.
 
Running pertronix with the flame thrower coil on my 68 Cuda 340, happy with it, had no problems.
 
salinasjoel said:
Hey thanks guys. It is an ignitor 1 so I will need a ballast. Will I need a different one then I have for the dual point or will my current ballast be sufficient? And is really as simple as hooking the 2 wires into my hot and cold side of the coil?
Click to expand...
I think you can find an instruction sheet for the Ignitor I on the web. The factory Mopar ECU used a 0.5 ohm ballast for the coil. I don't know about dual points. You cannot accurately measure yours with an ohmeter, so go by spec sheets. Coils probably varied, since I have a Mopar coil labelled "for use with electronic ignition only". I assume the ballast is still needed with that coil, but not sure.
 
I have run Petronix I, on 2 cars and never had trouble. I always thought about picking up a spare to carry with just in case. If memory serves its a HAL effect ignition and when it works it works good, when it fails it don't work at all.
 
salinasjoel said:
I have a 65 273 and I am getting rid of my dual points distributor for the obvious reason of not wanting to fool with it. I have a mopar distributor oem that the previous owner slapped a petronix box in. I also have an orange box and wiring harness so I could buy a electronic dizzy if necessary. But I just wanted thoughts on the petronix as I have never tried one. It's just a street car so I'm not really concerned with power or ability to handle it, but I just can't grasp how this simple magnetic box does everything without an ecu.
Thanks
Joel
Click to expand...

I say use the orange box,harness,and an electronic distributor. It's a better ignition. With my experience,the Pertronix would cut out it the upper rpm's.
For what you are doing,it will be a perfect system.
For what's its worth,knock on wood,I have never had a BR or orange box go out on me. Even if the ECU goes out,every auto parts store has a replacement.
I vote,stick with the Chrysler system,it is one of the best electronic ignition systems ever designed.
 
i don't belive you connect the two wires to the coil. the pertronix module needs a full 12 volts. if you use a ballast, you will have less than 12 volts on the hot wire to the coil/
,go to a full 12 volt source with the power wire.
 
Got an old single points dizzy and put in Ignitor II module. Replaced the original dual point but keeping it for all OEM original parts. I used the ballast and tried it without the ballast. Seemed to be a little better with full 12V. But don't leave engine off with ignition turned on as it may burn out module.
 
3406pk said:
don't leave engine off with ignition turned on as it may burn out module.
Click to expand...

That IS one advantage of the GM HEI modules over several other ignitions, including the Mopar ECU
 
67Dart273 said:
That IS one advantage of the GM HEI modules over several other ignitions, including the Mopar ECU
Click to expand...

First I heard of this. Maybe that explains the many failures of the Mopar ECU. Does the Ignitor II warn of that too? I thought it was a more modern design, very similar to the HEI module, and it doesn't need a ballast.
 
I ended up getting the flamethrower coil as well. Called petronix make sure I was reading the chart right and they just had me remove the ballast to run a full 12v. Of course this doesn't help with leaving the ignition on without the motor running but it is one less part with a rep for failure.
 
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