pilot bushing problem

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wrock

wrock

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About 4 years ago, I replaced the clutch in my '68 Dart /6 with an A-903. Two months later I pulled it out, as I had not lubricated the pilot busing in the crank adequately, so I was grinding most every gear. This solved the problem, but now 4 years later it is back. In the first 30 years I owned the car, I guess I was lucky, this was never a problem. The shop manual says "do not lubricate" in bold letters, but my previous experience in 2020 indicates otherwise. Now I am back to procrastinating getting back into the job. I have a new bronze bushing on the way along with a new clutch, as "if it's out, I might as well replace it" even though it has less than 50K on it, I would assume (odometer broke in 2007). Any thoughts on lubricants yes/no/type to use would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Bill
 
they don't recommend lubricating the pilot bushing, as excess lubricant can contaminate the clutch surface. And the bushing is supposed to be made of an Oilite/bronze alloy which should not require additional lubrication.
I can't vouch for manufacturing tolerances on replacement parts anymore, but it sounds to me like you have a non oilite bushing, or that the outside diameter may have been a smidge too large and when driven in it collapsed enough to cause insufficient clearance to the input shaft.
The easy cure? Use a pilot BEARING from a '90s truck/Dakota- it presses into the convertor register in the crank (remove the offending pilot bushing first), and since it is a sealed roller bearing, it will never require lubrication.
1707884096390.png

More Information for BCA NBFC69907
 
wrock said:
About 4 years ago, I replaced the clutch in my '68 Dart /6 with an A-903. Two months later I pulled it out, as I had not lubricated the pilot busing in the crank adequately, so I was grinding most every gear. This solved the problem, but now 4 years later it is back. In the first 30 years I owned the car, I guess I was lucky, this was never a problem. The shop manual says "do not lubricate" in bold letters, but my previous experience in 2020 indicates otherwise. Now I am back to procrastinating getting back into the job. I have a new bronze bushing on the way along with a new clutch, as "if it's out, I might as well replace it" even though it has less than 50K on it, I would assume (odometer broke in 2007). Any thoughts on lubricants yes/no/type to use would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Bill
Click to expand...
I just did the clutch install in my a833 and out in a McLeod and used their ceramic grease they supplied. Some guys use white lithium and other grease. I’ve always just did a nice light skim coat on pilot bushing and Input shaft
 
I have not replaced a pilot bushing in some time but it was common practice to soak the bushing in motor oil (warm like room temp) over night before the install. I never learned “why” but the old timers I learned MoPar from made me do it and it worked. Never an issue.
“Wives tale?” Not sure. I just know I’ve never had an issue. Then again with all the crap being made in Chy-na now a days. Who knows what you will get.
Syleng1
 
to echo Professor Fate oilite bushings are oil infused porous sintered bronze. You can't necessarily see the oil but it's in there. There must be another issue. Pilot bushings last a long time. I'm old and run them pretty hard and have never had a problem. Measure everything carefully to make sure you have proper outside an inside diameter clearances for your crankshaft and trans.
 
wrock said:
........The shop manual says "do not lubricate" in bold letters, but my previous experience in 2020 indicates otherwise................
Click to expand...

Per the '70 FSM. the input shaft should be left dry on installation.
However, it does indicate where to lube.........................

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