Ported X head pics

[gzig5]

I don't know anything about porting, and you may have completely destroyed it, but that looks pretty nice to me. I have a pair of 318 heads to start playing with before I turn loose my 2.02 J heads or heaven forbid, the ProMaxx 171s.
I want to come up with a flow bench of some sort so I can measure results. Another project for this year after I retire.

 

[4spdragtop]

That's what I was thinking, they might be fd, but they're starting to get shiny lol.

Some one had a PDF file of them templets that was accurate and to size. There was some setting that you had to set your printer too to make them accurate......landscape i think. I was never Successful with a Quality printing of them.
Back in the day when you could buy the plastic W2 temples i bought them and then trimmed them to fit the hardened intake seat. That i had to have installed to save my head i had to have to save my head. Ported that port and then ground down the W2 templets until they fit my port. So that i could match all the rest or them.
That was long before i knew anything about a 88-91% bowl to seat ratio. these were 1.88 intake valve heads.

Many roll down the exit at the floor.
I've tried it. 2 reasons imo.
1. Typical 340 Headers immediately turn down...so are we flowing with headers used or just guessing what it ends up at.
2. The flow number goes up.
It's like tricking the port into thinking it has more floor radius than it has ..and that bump on the roof might be the diff of how well the rolling the floor exit works or doesnt. Not saying exh flow numbers are as important as a quiet port.
I don't think I'd leave the exh stock after porting the intake side.
Stock flow yields a exh flow ratio of near 75% @195-200cfm intake and 145 cfm exhaust....I'd still try for that.
Polishing, good.
Radiused seat work, even better.
You'll find laying the ssr of the x/J exh port can immediately shift the peak into the .700 lift with little effort.
If you play with the roof kink...try only removing maybe .030 and aim 'with' the floor. Remember its expanding as its moving past the valve..expand too fast will slow the air, the opposite of what we want in an exh port.

I don't know anything about porting, and you may have completely destroyed it, but that looks pretty nice to me. I have a pair of 318 heads to start playing with before I turn loose my 2.02 J heads or heaven forbid, the ProMaxx 171s.
I want to come up with a flow bench of some sort so I can measure results. Another project for this year after I retire.

 

[EL5DEMON340]

Thanks guys! Much appreciated. I'll be using the the Hipo Xhaust manifolds, so I'll chk to see how the exhaust ports match/mate to the heads. I know that an exhaust upgrade is in order, more $$ lol
When working on intake bowl and throat last night I tried an old stone I had and it "fit perfectly" or so it seemed lol, directly below and either side of guide. I think I'm pretty much done bowl side other than 80 grit for finishing(too smooth now I think). I'll mimic the other intakes to this one unless someone sees needed improvements?
Heres weapons of choice/destruction. I have a few of the long shank Chinesium burrs, but them pricks bend a little easier then what I thought. I'll shorten the shaft for better feel/control.
That rust spot on dog leg is right where the roof ramps up from port into bowl. I think I'll try to lay it back from port side.
Thanks again all

View attachment 1716040624

View attachment 1716040625

View attachment 1716040626

View attachment 1716040627

Looks like you got most of that tail knocked down

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks, I think it still looks a little "drastic from port side"? Can the roof hump where red straw is pointing be knocked down?

Looks like you got most of that tail knocked down

 

[Cudafever]

Wow! I can't believe no one want to comment on this.

Using your statement on the first post this is my thoughts.

The guide and roof get blown out to get max port potential......." that's not you".
There is a reason chry put that blocked off hump there. i have my theory but won't share them or argue others theory.

YOU need to open up the smallest CSA(cross sectional area) and that is NOT the PRP(push rod pinch) and it Is NOT the roof or guide boss.

It IS on the floor at the beginning of the SSR (short side radius ) aka you need to make it just a little bit wider.(wall to floor work). Don't get crazy here, just improve the width,
And it IS in the bowl, (Make it 88% of the seat) and the Most Important Part of it all is the 3 angle valve job!!!!!

The bottom cut of the 3 angle cut(65 or 70*) Will cut out a LOT of material in the bowl. My suggestion to you is blend in that bottom cut and call it a day!!! even if it is less then 88% in the blow area.
Remember you can always, cut more metal out later, but it is Hard to put then metal shavings back in!!!!!

One final note: I'm not telling you all of this because I'm some PURIST X head person. i would give you the same EXACT advice if you were looking to improve a newer smog 360 head with a 1.88 valve.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate everyone's input. The floors I havent touched since I stalled a couple years ago. Altho I have done some cleanup on #2&4 floors. 6 and 8 floors haven't been touched.
On the ssr I smoothed very little with a stone. Mostly hand sanded 80 grit to smooth it out.
Worked a little more on chamber side today trying to get in between straight wall and outer guide tail. A 4 or 6" mandrel for my spiral rolls would be nice! I cant get in far enough with drums and the 6" burrs I have are too wide. I was able to get in with a short barrel style.
When you talk working the SSR are you talking from port side or bowl side?
Heres pics where I'm at 2 and 4 floors were touched up couple years ago.
Also any theories you can share in a pm??

Wow! I can't believe no one want to comment on this.

Using your statement on the first post this is my thoughts.

The guide and roof get blown out to get max port potential......." that's not you".
There is a reason chry put that blocked off hump there. i have my theory but won't share them or argue others theory.

YOU need to open up the smallest CSA(cross sectional area) and that is NOT the PRP(push rod pinch) and it Is NOT the roof or guide boss.

It IS on the floor at the beginning of the SSR (short side radius ) aka you need to make it just a little bit wider.(wall to floor work). Don't get crazy here, just improve the width,
And it IS in the bowl, (Make it 88% of the seat) and the Most Important Part of it all is the 3 angle valve job!!!!!

The bottom cut of the 3 angle cut(65 or 70*) Will cut out a LOT of material in the blow. My suggestion to you is blend in that bottom cut and call it a day!!! even if it is less then 88% in the blow area.
Remember you can always, cut more metal out later, but it is Hard to put then metal shavings back in!!!!!

One final note: I'm not telling you all of this because I'm some PURIST X head person. i would give you the same EXACT advice if you were looking to improve a newer smog 360 head with a 1.88 valve.

 

[4spdragtop]

So touched up all 4 floors with small barrel burr and 80grit spiral rolls. I didnt reshape as much as make a uniform texture. Still cant get deep enough to cover 100% of entire bowl/port.

 

[4spdragtop]

Moving to exhaust, the port side has been touched up, but needs lots of smoothing lol. Bowl side is worse lol. Bowl side pics in a bit.
Oh last pic has substantial casting "seam" for lack of a better word.
Advice/suggestions welcome.
Thanks

 

[4spdragtop]

Chamber side, lots to fix of my shitty job. Last pic is #8 and it looks the "best" or least shitty lol.

 

[Cudafever]

Absolutely nothing but cleaning on the exhaust port.
and leave the floor at the header area As Cast.
You really should remove your attention from the exhaust.

"Just my opinion" BUT you get the exhaust flowing better, it will flow better in revers aka, it will run up the intake valve when both are open. Steal all your bottom end and Ruin The low end torque, just as if you would have put a big lumpy cam in it.
You haven't changed it much but spend any more time equalizing all the exhaust ports aka matching them. The two "center" exhaust port have a different shape then the out side one. just something to keep in mind.