Power Steering Upgrade

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Izzonyg

Izzonyg

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Hello, I am restoring my 70 Duster 340. I'm starting to reassemble and while I'm building everything back up I'd like to upgrade my manual steering to power steering. Does anyone know if I will have to change the pulley and add another belt or would a Borgenson (for example) complete power steering set up work off the original pulley? To complete the job I believe I would need the new box, pump, mounting brackets, anything else I'm forgetting? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Also posted a pic of car for kicks.

Duster.JPG
 
You will need a second lower pulley. I would look for a pulley that is 30 to 40% smaller than the one on the pump. Great looking start!!!
 
Izzonyg said:
Are there any upgrade options out there where I won't have to shorten the steering column?
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Yes you may need a new shaft inside the steering column period or a different steering column. The hydraulic steering has a bigger box with a hydraulic pump on it. Which extends it towards the driver a little bit more like about 3 in. The thing is most people take the power steering off for lighter race type applications and in their case they can purchase a 3in extensions kind of like a socket extension if you will. But in our case....
 
By myself change from an automatic with power steering to a stick shift without power steering so I ended up getting a different steering column anyways.
 
When you do this I would also ask people who know about it, not me, but as you know the stock power steering or you may not know? Is a little over powered if you will. It's not going to feel tight like my Durango does it's going to feel sloppy because it kind of is too powerful. It's hard to explain but somebody who knows where I'm going kind of might be able to. Like my old Dodge truck, I'd like to almost put a smaller steering wheel on it just to make it a little harder to steer? If that makes sense? I don't want to change the stock steering wheel but the power steering is just too easy and makes the steering wheel I guess two light.
 
Cut the lower shaft off 3 3/8 inch and redrill the shaft for the cross pin. I've done this many times. It always works!
 
Funny thing is that little 3-inch piece! For the people who are going from power steering to manual? I think there's one or two companies that sell those and they want so much for them you could probably find an entire correct steering column in great condition at a swap meet for the same price or cheaper! LOL I DID!! Now I don't have to cut the plastic moldings for all the automatic stuff off my steering column, Bondo it in, then paint over it! And pay some Hefty price for an extension. The correct steering column works the best LOL
mopar373 said:
Cut the lower shaft off 3 3/8 inch and redrill the shaft for the cross pin. I've done this many times. It always works!
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Good idea!
 
I consider manual steering an upgrade from power steering especially on an A body.
 
You can decrease the power steering over sensitive feel by decreasing the pump pressure with a shim in the pump regulator. If going with a new P/S box use a firm feel box, works wonders and is a bolt in. Think AAR Cuda and Challenger T/A.
 
I went from manual to power just to ditch the 24:1 slow *** ratio (yea I know the there are 16:1 manual boxes, I had one) and run larger than 195 wide front tires. I used a Firm Feel Stage 3 box, so no more overpowered steering and a faster ratio, my wife can drive the car too. You will need a Power Steering column or shaft and swap it out int your column, the correct two V crank pulley, PS bracket and PS pump. There is an issue with the pressure line off the newer Saginaw boxes not clearing the biscuit type mount K-Frames. Bouchillon makes a hose to this issue as do they carry other PS items. Do you plan to run headers as this is where things can get sideways? My Doug's didn't clear the the power coupler. Most dent the tube, jack up the motor, shim the box or try to spread the header tube, none of which I felt was a good choice. I ended up with going to Flaming River tilt with smaller universal joint and the column has a slider built in. I liked the idea of having a tilt so the extra cost (~$550) was fine with me. My dad runs a Firm Feel Stage 1 on his 66 Coronet 500 with a 4 speed/440 combo and its nice. Way way better than the original box but you can still drive with one hand when parking.
 
Back when power steering came out it was all about ladies steering with a pinky finger. I wont argue that Chryslers was the easiest of the big 3 US mfgrs. Regardless what feel/feedback you want, you will need a shorter steering shaft, a different box coupling ( those splined shaft sizes are different ), and a crank pulley for the added accessory belt.
The shaft is 2 piece collapsible up inside the tube so if I was going to attempt shortening the manual shaft I would look there rather than at the cross pin at the box coupling. That pin to hole fitment is a very tight press fit due to lack of surface area. Engineers at play there. Some parts were designed to never ever wear and need replaced.
 
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