Prepping For First Start

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MrJLR

MrJLR

Built, not bought
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My 318 is ready to go back in...gonna happen Friday!
I primed the oil system last night...oil to the top on both sides.

20160611_103137.jpg


So, after I make all my connections, I'll be breaking in the cam.
I want/need it to start up pretty quick - I don't want to crank and crank and crank and wipe off all my assembly lube.

So, how can I be sure I have spark without cranking the engine?
Also, I am installing a new fuel tank. How can I prime the fuel system to be sure I have fuel.
Lastly, Should I put some gas in the carb? Should I fill the bowl? It's a new Thermoquad - how would I do that?

Kinda novice questions I know.....but I don't wanna screw this up! LOL !

Thanks

Jeff
 
Are you using a known, working ignition?
If not, if it turns over more than a couple of times and don't light, stop and figure it out.

The other thing is this....DO NOT TIME THE ENGINE AT TDC. THIS IS WRONG.

Turn the engine over until you are at 40* BEFORE TDC. Drop the distributor in and make sure the rotor is pointing at number one on the cap, while holding the rotor in a clockwise direction. Then bolt it down. It should fire up instantly.

Slow timing makes heat, sticks exhaust valves and other bad stuff. 40* won't hurt a thing with no load on it.
 
Get a kids liquid medicine syringe at a pharmacy. They come in different sizes. Fill the carb through vent tubes and get accelerator pump squirting.

Plug in the distributor before dropping it in, turn on ignition, pull coil wire out to ground and spin the shaft. It should spark. You may want to try it in start key position as well with the wires off the starter relay so engine doesn't crank. This way you know you have spark in both key positions.

I'd set crank at 20-25 BTDC, have wires lined up, ignition on and twist distributor CCW with timing light attached (no dial back) to see when it triggers. Lock it down and see if it starts when you are ready. Best to have two people or a remote starter button. Agreed, get it started and wind in 40ish * of timing, not going to hurt it with no load and will help keep exhaust temps down.
 
Last edited:
crackedback said:
Get a kids liquid medicine syringe at a pharmacy. They come in different sizes. Fill the carb through vent tubes and get accelerator pump squirting.
Click to expand...
OK.....sounds simple enough!

yellow rose said:
Are you using a known, working ignition?
If not, if it turns over more than a couple of times and don't light, stop and figure it out.

The other thing is this....DO NOT TIME THE ENGINE AT TDC. THIS IS WRONG.

Turn the engine over until you are at 40* BEFORE TDC. Drop the distributor in and make sure the rotor is pointing at number one on the cap, while holding the rotor in a clockwise direction. Then bolt it down. It should fire up instantly.

Slow timing makes heat, sticks exhaust valves and other bad stuff. 40* won't hurt a thing with no load on it.
Click to expand...

It is a brand new White Performance distributor....I can only "assume" it works....
So not TDC @ zero.....40 BEFORE.....ok!

Can I spin the dizzy by hand with the key in the run position and check for spark? Does that work?

Jeff
 
318willrun said:
exciting time for ya, Jeff !! :D
Click to expand...

Sure is!
Little set back. ....gotta order a different flex plate this morning so I won't be dropping it in for a few more days....that's OK though, tons of other stuff I can do while I wait!

Jeff
 
One thing I have heard suggested for cam break in is keeping a garden hose or a fan handy to help with the cooling system, since there will be no airflow to the radiator

I've even heard of people sticking the garden hose in the radiator and letting the water run out just a little to keep the Temps down
 
diymirage said:
One thing I have heard suggested for cam break in is keeping a garden hose or a fan handy to help with the cooling system, since there will be no airflow to the radiator

I've even heard of people sticking the garden hose in the radiator and letting the water run out just a little to keep the Temps down
Click to expand...

Good point....I have a big a$$ fan I can put in front...

:thumbsup:

Jeff
 
yellow rose said:
Why the new flex plate?
Click to expand...

My original flex plate has an 11" BC....the torque converter I bought has the 10" BC.
I didn't realize there were 2 different sizes when I bought the converter....
Ordered it this morning from Mancini.....$15.95 - but now I gotta wait for it!

Jeff
 
As soon as it starts, check the oil pressure to make sure it's good...

Check for any major fluid leaks, oil, trans, water, gas...

Then set the timing to 34-36 at 2000-2500 rpm...

Then watch the temp gauge real close to be sure it doesn't overheat while breaking in the cam...
 
While I'm waiting for the flex plate, I remembered I made up my washers to "Pump it down" for my power steering pump....I'll do that tomorrow morning. ....
Still need to swap out my new gas tank...
I got stuff to keep me busy. .....

Jeff
 
Ok....got the correct flex plate and some new ARP bolts...

20160620_181209_zpsmb8hnzw7.jpg


20160620_181216_zpsk1uni41e.jpg


Now I'll go ahead and install the new torque converter and front transmission seal.

Engine will go in Saturday. ....it was 113 degrees here today! Supposed to be mid 90's Saturday so I'll start early....

Jeff
 
RED LOCKTITE ON THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE FLEX PLATE TO THE CONVERTER.

Don't mean to yell, but I have seen very bad things happen if you don't.

LOCKTITE is cheap. Damn computer made the LOCKTITE caps, twice. Don't know why.
 
yellow rose said:
RED LOCKTITE ON THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE FLEX PLATE TO THE CONVERTER.

Don't mean to yell, but I have seen very bad things happen if you don't.

LOCKTITE is cheap. Damn computer made the LOCKTITE caps, twice. Don't know why.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
I have a big full bottle of the red....I was gonna ask if the red was the one I needed to use!

Jeff
 
I am getting ready to go through the process in about 10 days. I installed a mechanical pressure gauge in place of the oil pressure sensor for prelube and startup. I would like to do the same for a mechanical temp gauge. Once I go through the cam break-in 30 minute run, I will replace both gauges with the factory sensors but I will have a baseline. Thinking about the oil for the break-in run, I have 8 quarts of royal purple on the shelf. Should I use the royal purple for the break-in, drop the oil and add new filter and another 5 quarts of royal purple or is there an acceptable break-in alternative. It has been suggested that I use John Deere break-in oil with a cam break-in additive for the first run, then change to the royal purple. Thoughts appreciated!
 
adriver said:
Locate 40 BTDC by sticking a degree wheel on the crankshaft dampener I'm guessing?
And have the rotor at number 1 to start?
Click to expand...
Use a degree wheel or easier, put a degree tape on the dampener.
First it's a good idea to find out the "true" 0 on your engine. On at least all the bigblocks I have worked on have none of them showed the correct zero on the dampener, some only one degree off but I have seen up to 6 degrees off! Use a piston stop tool or make one yourself of an old sparkplug and a bolt. Then turn the engine to the stop one way, mark the dampener, then turn the other way and make another mark. Now you have two marks on the dampener, just measure halfway between and see if it matches the factory 0 mark. Use a white tire pen so it's easy to see with your timing light.
Now set it to 40 deg and point the rotor to #1 spark plug wire!
Good luck!
 
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