Problem with axles fitting in cone suregrip.

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71valiant

71valiant

Make fast, break, repeat.
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I've got a narrowed 8.75. I had the open 2:76's replaced with a cone suregrip and 3:91's. Now my axles will not push in all the way. The driver side is about an inch too long and the passenger about ½ inch. The retainer plate on the driver side is nowhere near able to bolt down and I can get the passenger side started but they won't run all the way in. Hopefully I'm just missing something here and there's just a minor issue.
 
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Common problem. Sounds like the side gear splines in the sure grip aren't aligned properly. There's 2 ways of getting it aligned.

1. take the sure grip back out and loosen the bolts holding it together then slide in a set of axles aligning the splines and tighten the bolts back up. Note they are left hand threads

2. using a long pry bar wedged between the wheels studs (screw as many nuts as you can get on the studs to protect the threads) turn it slowly while pushing in on the axle. Most of the time it doesn't have to turn much then you can tap it in with a small dead blow hammer. It'd help if you can use a real strong flashlight to look down the axle tube and see which way the spline is off so you know which way to turn the axles the least amount.
 
fishy68 said:
Common problem. Sounds like the side gear splines in the sure grip aren't aligned properly. There's 2 ways of getting it aligned.

1. take the sure grip back out and loosen the bolts holding it together then slide in a set of axles aligning the splines and tighten the bolts back up. Note they are left hand threads

2. using a long pry bar wedged between the wheels studs (screw as many nuts as you can get on the studs to protect the threads) turn it slowly while pushing in on the axle. Most of the time it doesn't have to turn much then you can tap it in with a small dead blow hammer. It'd help if you can use a real strong flashlight to look down the axle tube and see which way the spline is off so you know which way to turn the axles the least amount.
Click to expand...
I had the same problem.I had the housing supported on the ends which caused the housing to flex enough to not let the axles go all the way in. Just supported it in the middle and they went right in
 
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fishy68 said:
Common problem. Sounds like the side gear splines in the sure grip aren't aligned properly. There's 2 ways of getting it aligned.

1. take the sure grip back out and loosen the bolts holding it together then slide in a set of axles aligning the splines and tighten the bolts back up. Note they are left hand threads

2. using a long pry bar wedged between the wheels studs (screw as many nuts as you can get on the studs to protect the threads) turn it slowly while pushing in on the axle. Most of the time it doesn't have to turn much then you can tap it in with a small dead blow hammer. It'd help if you can use a real strong flashlight to look down the axle tube and see which way the spline is off so you know which way to turn the axles the least amount.
Click to expand...

just for clarification --- CONE style SURE GRIP case bolts are RIGHT hand thread --- CLUTCH style POWER LOCK case bolts are Left hand thread
 
fishy68 said:
Common problem. Sounds like the side gear splines in the sure grip aren't aligned properly. There's 2 ways of getting it aligned.

1. take the sure grip back out and loosen the bolts holding it together then slide in a set of axles aligning the splines and tighten the bolts back up. Note they are left hand threads

2. using a long pry bar wedged between the wheels studs (screw as many nuts as you can get on the studs to protect the threads) turn it slowly while pushing in on the axle. Most of the time it doesn't have to turn much then you can tap it in with a small dead blow hammer. It'd help if you can use a real strong flashlight to look down the axle tube and see which way the spline is off so you know which way to turn the axles the least amount.
Click to expand...

So, is there any possibility of doing this with the SG staying in the member? I'm really trying to avoid removing the SG because I have no idea on how to set backlash or anything. And I just payed to have it all set up.
 
71valiant said:
So, is there any possibility of doing this with the SG staying in the member? I'm really trying to avoid removing the SG because I have no idea on how to set backlash or anything. And I just payed to have it all set up.
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You don't need to pull it out of the case (third member), just pull the chunk out of the housing (rear end).

I would try the second option that Tracy mentioned...FIRST.

Slide the axles in, and while turning them apply inward pressure. As mentioned, protect the threads on the studs. This can be done while the chunk is still in the housing. If that doesn't work, then you may need to remove the chunk, loosen the suregrip housing bolts, get the axles lined up......and tighten the housing bolts before pulling the axle.

Use caution when installing the chunk back into the housing, so as not to turn the yolk which could mis-align the splines again.
 
Excellent. Ok. I'm currently trying to do method 2. So just keep turning one direction until it lines up?
 
71valiant said:
I'm turning and pushing....and getting nowhere. Lol
Click to expand...

Be patient....it might take a few attempts.

If after a bit, pull the chunk and loosen the bolts just a little bit on the suregrip case itself...align the splines using an axle...and tighten the case bolts before pulling the axles out.

You said a narrowed rear, did the axles fit before?

What axle bearings are you using?

If the green bearings, was the thrust buttons or block removed from the suregrip?

Which suregrip....cone or clutch??? EDIT: I see cone in the OP
 
And just to be clear. The driveshaft doesnt need attached to the yoke correct? Because the yoke is just spinning free as I turn the axle.
 
If you cant get the yoke to stay still, remove the driveshaft and install a breaker bar in the yoke straps.
 
OK. It'll turn. With A LOT of force. Lol
Gotta run to the boy to the bmv for a permit test. Will resume in a bit. I appreciate all your help guys!!
 
71valiant said:
With the driveshaft attached and in park. The axle will not budge in the SG. (Turn)
Click to expand...

Are you using a bar between the studs? If so, then it sounds like you may have to pull the chunk and loosen the SG case bolts a tad.
 
Yeah. I made another post. I had to use a bit of muscle to get it to turn. May need a second set of hands to pust the axle as I turn it.
 
You guys are awesome. Axles are in. Had to take a block of wood and tap while my son turned the axles. Everything's bolted up and sitting due to rain. Lol
 
Waiting for dry weather...Lol

20160430_142236.jpg
 
71valiant said:
You guys are awesome. Axles are in. Had to take a block of wood and tap while my son turned the axles. Everything's bolted up and sitting due to rain. Lol
Click to expand...


Axle end play set correctly??!?

Yeah, rain just moving in here, just got all of my mowing done, just in time....whew!
 
71valiant said:
What does the end play need to be set at, and how?
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Using a dial indicator mounted on the left axle and indicating on the brake backing plate, turn the adjuster clockwise until both wheel bearings are seated and there is ZERO end play in the axle shafts. Back off the adjuster counterclockwise approximately four notches to establish and axle shaft end play of .008" - .018" inch.

Tap end of left axle shaft lightly with a non metallic mallet (dead blow hammer) to seat right wheel bearing and rotate axle shafts several times for a true end play reading.

Remove one retainer nut and install adjuster lock, install nut and torque to 30 -35 foot pounds.

Recheck axle end play, if it is not within tolerance of .008" - .018" repeat adjustment procedure.

Some like it a tad tighter, when I did mine, I came in at .010, good enough for me, lol.
 
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