You need to get back to the same ride height you were at before. Whenever the ride height changes, the alignment changes. By raising the car a full 1 1/4" you've changed all of your static alignment numbers which is probably why the car feels squirrelly. That could be toe-out or a loss of positive caster. Even if you get back to the previous height, after changing that many suspension components it's time for a new alignment.
The strut rods need to be adjusted so that there is no binding in the LCA as it moves through its full range of travel. I do this by putting the car up on stands and then removing the shocks and torsion bars adjusting bolts and plates. With the shocks and torsion bar adjusters removed you should be able to raise and lower the LCA (and the rest of the suspension) manually. I start by adjusting the strut rods so the LCA is pulled all the way up against the LCA bushings but so that the LCA is still perpendicular to the frame rail (if you make the strut rod too short it will put an angle on the LCA). Once that's done I start cycling the suspension up and down through its entire range of travel, feeling for any resistance or binding and then adjusting the strut rod length until there's no binding in the entire range of travel.
You may not end up with strut rods that are exactly the same length, the factory suspension points could be off by like a 1/4" and those differences were taken up by the giant original rubber bushings. But if they're different by an entire inch you may have something bent or broken somewhere in the suspension, K frame or frame rails.
The goal of the adjustable strut rods is not to use them to adjust the alignment, but to get the LCA's to travel without any binding and without the large amounts of forward/aft deflection they can have with the stock strut rods and fat rubber bushings.
The strut rods need to be adjusted so that there is no binding in the LCA as it moves through its full range of travel. I do this by putting the car up on stands and then removing the shocks and torsion bars adjusting bolts and plates. With the shocks and torsion bar adjusters removed you should be able to raise and lower the LCA (and the rest of the suspension) manually. I start by adjusting the strut rods so the LCA is pulled all the way up against the LCA bushings but so that the LCA is still perpendicular to the frame rail (if you make the strut rod too short it will put an angle on the LCA). Once that's done I start cycling the suspension up and down through its entire range of travel, feeling for any resistance or binding and then adjusting the strut rod length until there's no binding in the entire range of travel.
You may not end up with strut rods that are exactly the same length, the factory suspension points could be off by like a 1/4" and those differences were taken up by the giant original rubber bushings. But if they're different by an entire inch you may have something bent or broken somewhere in the suspension, K frame or frame rails.
The goal of the adjustable strut rods is not to use them to adjust the alignment, but to get the LCA's to travel without any binding and without the large amounts of forward/aft deflection they can have with the stock strut rods and fat rubber bushings.
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