pulling engine with carb plate?

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younggun2.0

younggun2.0

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getting ready to pull the engine out of my dart to swap k members. Anyone pull the engine with carb lift plate? sounds easy enough but kinda worried about lifting engine with only carb studs. would be 383 with eddy heads. no trans.
 
younggun2.0 said:
getting ready to pull the engine out of my dart to swap k members. Anyone pull the engine with carb lift plate? sounds easy enough but kinda worried about lifting engine with only carb studs. would be 383 with eddy heads. no trans.
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I'm interested in the same answer too. Makes me kinda nervous. Not only 4 skinny bolts, but what if the intake cracks and the engine falls?

Hell it's nerve wracking enough putting so much trust on a chain and two bolts when pulling it from the heads!! But, I've done that a few times. Still makes me nervous though!
 
I have dun this a few times with steel intakes on small block's but never would trust an aluminum intake on a small block unless I had aluminum heads, me, I would with steel intake, just my take on this younggun2.0
 
I've done it with 318 with iron intake and with transmission attached worked well.. I'd be hesitant to use carb plate on aluminum intake. Dustin
 
no problem, you will be fine doing it that way.
 

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I've done it 3 times thus far on my 408 in my 78 powerwagon. It has a performer RPM intake and I've had no issues. Now I do removed the carb studs and use grade eight bolts, I forget the length, but I bottom them out in the intake, make sure to put anti-sieze on them going in so you dont gall your threads. The length is determined by how thick your plate is, you want it tightened down and not able to move any. I also remove all accessories to help make it a tad lighter and easier to handle. Plus remove the manifolds if you're running them and drain the block of oil and coolant. That's a few lbs there.
 
I just put a cast iron manifolds, intake, and head 440 into my 71 charger Saturday with no problems. it had me a little nervous, but it worked out ok
 
383? Just sling it under the runners! I pulled a 400 w/torker with a tranny attached with a motor plate. not ideal as the balance was way off but it can be done. I used studs bottomed out. But a chain under the intake is as easy, just put a rag in there to prevent the chain from marring the intake sides or throw a bike inner tube over the chain.
 
I'd say drop it out the bottom since you're plannin on changing the K-member anyway but Idk if it's possible to drop a 383 out the bottom or not. I just dropped the 318/904 out the bottom of my Duster a week or 2 ago. Did it by myself easily, but like I said, Idk if a 383 can be dropped out the bottom, I've never had one or worked on one.
 
75slant6 said:
I'd say drop it out the bottom since you're plannin on changing the K-member anyway but Idk if it's possible to drop a 383 out the bottom or not. I just dropped the 318/904 out the bottom of my Duster a week or 2 ago. Did it by myself easily, but like I said, Idk if a 383 can be dropped out the bottom, I've never had one or worked on one.
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ALL the suspension is out of the car. front and rear. car is up on jack stands. so not able to drop out the bottom. I think i will be fine pulling from top. its just engine with aluminum heads.
 
Lift the big blocks with a carb plate bolted to the aluminum intake all the time. No problems.
 
You would not believe how much shear strength good 5/16-18 threads in aluminum have. Over 400 psi per hole, assuming around 1" engagement.

If:
A) The manifold threads are good
B) Quality fasteners are used
C) The lift plate is bolted flat to the intake

Then you are good to go.

Done it dozens of times.
 
That's all I use if the engine has the intake on it.

I use a chain sling if it doesn't.

No problems.
I do use the OEM conical exhaust washers under the bolt heads.
 
thanks for all the positive feed back guys. i figured it would work but had me a bit un easy thinking about it.

its brand new intake. will get grade 8 hardware and make sure to use anti seize and as much thread engagement as possible.
 
You'll be fine. I've done it numerous times. Aluminum intake engines, with iron heads, and a 4 speed attatched....

There is a video online about a company who tested this theory. They had an aluminum intake and used 4 grade-5, 5/16 fasteners to secure a lift plate. I think they pulled it to damn near 5,000 pounds before the hook pulled through the hole in the steel lift plate! Not even damaging the threads on the intake...
 
IQ52 said:
Lift the big blocks with a carb plate bolted to the aluminum intake all the time. No problems.
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Yep. Not a problem as long as the threads are good. What is it, maybe 175# per stud? That's nothing on a 5/16 stud.
 
340GTSDart said:
Have done it yearly on two big block chevy engines in my boat for the last 17 years - no problems yet.
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Yup, every engine I've ever done has been lifted with a carb plate. They use these at the machine shop too. My 440 has been hanging from one for 2 months waiting for the AlterKation to come in.

The pullout resistance of a 1/4" threaded insert ( which has about the same threaded diameter as a 5/16" bolt ) in die cast aluminum is about 7000#. The 75% yield strength of a Grade 5 5/16-18 bolt is about 3600#. You have four of these bolts holding your plate to the manifold, so it would take many times the weight of your engine to do any damage at all. I'd be more concerned about the capacity of the hoist and said chain.
 
roccodart440 said:
Yup, every engine I've ever done has been lifted with a carb plate. They use these at the machine shop too. My 440 has been hanging from one for 2 months waiting for the AlterKation to come in.

The pullout resistance of a 1/4" threaded insert ( which has about the same threaded diameter as a 5/16" bolt ) in die cast aluminum is about 7000#. The 75% yield strength of a Grade 5 5/16-18 bolt is about 3600#. You have four of these bolts holding your plate to the manifold, so it would take many times the weight of your engine to do any damage at all. I'd be more concerned about the capacity of the hoist and said chain.
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i have three extension cords braided together. that should do it.
 
i have pulled early hemis with plate. 331, 354, 392. the 392 weighs 800 lbs easy. no trouble. if the plate is good and tight.
 
I like to use the equalizer bars that mount to the engine with four chains. Then you can pull the trans with it and tilt it as needed to get it out.

Once the engine is ready to pull, and I got my equalizer on it, I can have the engine hovering over the engine bay in less than 10 minutes by myself....

pick it up horizontally and free it from the motor and trans mounts, then pull it forward and tilt it up to clear the radiator support, and then lift it and level the engine parallel to the ground and move it where you need it...

That simple, done in 10 minutes....

Here's how it works on my son's 72 Challenger...

Hook up the harness:

View attachment Eng Pull A01 B.jpg

View attachment Eng Pull A02 B.jpg

Lift the engine vertically to clear the engine and trans mounts:

View attachment Eng Pull A06 B.jpg

Pull it forward to the radiator support with a slight tilt to the front:

View attachment Eng Pull A10 B.jpg

Now really tilt it to clear the radiator support, it's tight, but can be done:

View attachment Eng Pull A12 B.jpg

Here's the tight spot:

View attachment Eng Pull A15 B.jpg

A close up:

View attachment Eng Pull A16 B.jpg

Then get pull it forward and up to get the back of the oil pan clear, then level it:

View attachment Eng Pull A19 B.jpg

Level her out and get it over the radiator support:

View attachment Eng Pull A21 B.jpg

Separate the trans and put it on my home made engine dolly: (notice how I use a spare trans yoke to keep the trans fluid from spilling while tilting and lifting the engine out...)

View attachment Chall Eng A12 B.jpg
 
I pulled a 273 off the back of my truck using a fanbelt looped though the 2bbl intake onto my picker hook. I had a pic on here somewhere. Not recommended but I was just trying to get a good pic and I kept going until I had it on the ground! Lots of guys say seatbelts work great at the boneyard. I like the equalizer bars but make sure you got the lift to clear the motor over the rad support. I got mine up and was still about 3" short. I had to drop and extend the boom one more hole.
 
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