pulling my engine out tomorrow..question

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SoulSurvivor

SoulSurvivor

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it is time to retire my 318 so I am pulling it out tomorrow.

how far forward does the engine have to go to clear the transmission shaft?

And...am I to assume the flex plate and torque converter will all come out at the same time as the engine?

I am having the time of my life..in my garage..working alone..listening the Sirius satellite..no one bothering me.

things seem to be going pretty smooth.

I know...putting it all back together is a different story.:read2:
 
you diconnect the converter from the flex plate first thru inspection cover......seperation is only about 1-2 inches...radiator must come put...exhaust unbolted...starter taken out....and all hoses and wires disconnected...out it comes ...be carefull.....raise front end up far enough toget under car and block trans using hyrulic jack ........again be careful......
 
You should remove the transmission dust shield and remove the torque converter bolts if you pull it all together you could damage the front pump. But to answer your question probably close to 8". The only time I have pulled them this way is when getting engines in the bone yard when I didn't need or care about the transmission.
 
Glad you guys told me about disconnecting the TQ from the flex plate.

How do I rotate the flex plate to get to all four TQ bolts?

Also...what does block the trans mean..support it with a floor jack?
 
Put a socket on the balencer and turn it over than remove the bolts.and yes use a floor jack under your tranny to suport it.I have in the past ran a 2x4 from one side of the inner fender to the outher and ran rope around the tranny to hold it up.No worrys of the floor jack slipping.
 
have someone or you spin the bottom pully on the motor with somthing you wont be able to get it with your hand need like a racket witht the right size socket an put it on one of the bolt and turn it like your goint to tighen it and then it should spin the motor therefore spinning the flex plate
 
Got it. You guys saved me a lot of trouble and all gave me good tips.

Thanks again.
 
I think the balancer bolt is 1 5/16" socket; if you need to know, I have one laying on the front of the Duster, lol.
 
You can rotate the engine to get to all 4 bolts by the large bolt on the front of the crankshaft. Allot of times you can rotate them by the flex-plate bolts themselves with a 9/16 wrench. You will need to but a jack or blocks of wood under the transmission for support. If you plan on moving the car once the motor is out you will need to use a chain some heavy wire or rope and hold the front of the transmission up. I like to tie it up to the hood hinges.
 
It's about time your going to put that 340 in there. What did it do on the dyno? Good luck to you.
 
I have the socket for the balancer. And a low floor jack to support the trans.
The car isn't going any place.
So..the only thing supporting the front of the trans is the engine itself?
If so...that would have been a rude awakening if I hadn't asked these questions.
 
I guess I forgot to hit reply, on the long post.
Pull the fan, radiator out; disconnect wires; remove the dist, or just the cap. Takes 2 to remove converter bolts- 1 to hold balancer nut; 1 to break loose those bolts, about 50 lbs- check the book for yours. If you have a good wrench, and a 2 lb hammer, you can break them loose, by yourself.
Jack under trans. Remove lower engine mount nuts. Raise engine to clear kframe
Block up trans, remove bolts.
Don't put much forward pressure on the hoist-1 "; it's free.

Now re-installing it takes 2 experienced; or 3 or 4 people.
A ***** to get it lined back up.
 
green1 said:
I guess I forgot to hit reply, on the long post.
Pull the fan, radiator out; disconnect wires; remove the dist, or just the cap. Takes 2 to remove converter bolts- 1 to hold balancer nut; 1 to break loose those bolts, about 50 lbs- check the book for yours. If you have a good wrench, and a 2 lb hammer, you can break them loose, by yourself.
Jack under trans. Remove lower engine mount nuts. Raise engine to clear kframe
Block up trans, remove bolts.
Don't put much forward pressure on the hoist-1 "; it's free.

Now re-installing it takes 2 experienced; or 3 or 4 people.
A ***** to get it lined back up.
Click to expand...

so...what are all you guys doing this weekend.....
 
Don't use the bellhousing bolts to pull it together; get the dowels mated, start bolts to hold it together, then push convertor against flexplate- should be about 1/4"
 
Yesterday I asked for advice from my fellow Mopar A body enthusiasts. The advice I received resulted in this. 24 hours from the time I asked for advice. The 24 hours included sleeping going to work. Thanks for all your help. you guys are the best.

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When I installed my motor, I found that if your engine hoist has an adjustable front to rear cradle that this will help in getting it lined up. I also used a smaller starter from a Dakota (Bought at Advance for $65.00) and I pulled out the stud from another transmission I had and put both starter to transmission mounting studs on the bellhousing and this made installation of the starter much easier I have Hooker Headers and there is virtually no room to try to bolt up the starter (or connect up the leads for that matter) and using the studs allowed me to rest the starter on the studs and just spin on the nuts and tighten. Just a hint that may help you. I installed my motor myself in a Gravel driveway on a hill!!!!! It WAS a *****!!!!!!!!
 
I was going to say pull the spark plugs out, makes it much easier when turning the engine over by hand.

Nice work getting it out.

Now, before you put it back together, grab your new flexplate and get the bolt alignment for the converter. Mark the converter and the flexplate with a symbol when alignment is correct. This way you don't end up getting three bolts in and the 4th is way off. I usually mark the verter and plate with a star or square.
 
Now see...this is all good info that I would never have thought of. I have a mini starter and there is already a stud for mounting it. But that bolt got in the way of removing the dust shield.
I didn't notice that there is a bolt pattern for the flex plate TQ. Cool. I'll mark that.
 
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