pump to carb fuel line

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys
im going through the 360 before I drop it back in and im wondering what to do about the fuel line that runs from the pump to the carb
(the carb is a eddy 600)
summit lists about 30 lines that "should" fit but im not sure which one I would need

anyone have a part number?
 
that will work too


(macguyver voice) now where did that ductape go?
 
i have found it easier to make a pump to carb steel line in two pieces, with a coupler in the middle. makes work on the carb easier. and ONLY use tubing wrenches. IMHO a steel fuel line is a must. after all the factory did it that way. the trans cooler line same.
 
Theres another reason for steel line from pump to carb. Fire prevention. If that line leaks on a running engine, at speed; how fast can you stop the car and run? Remember the pump is fueling the fire, at least until its ignition system fails.
 
do not use rubber,no matter how tempted you are.i did and it developed a leak,to this day i dont know how it didnt burn to the ground.so please dont use rubber
 
that is for sure a nice set up. but i like my filters down low off to the side so a fuel leek is not on top of the engine..
 
update (pictures tonight at 11)

I used a piece of old fuel line and bend it the way I thought it would be best
then I went out and bought a line (preflared, with fittings)
followed the bends as I had envisioned it and changed it a bit to make sure it cleared the alternator, no matter how tight or loose it needs to be
then I cut the top fitting off and installed the filter right at the end (using the compression flare, already on there)

all I need to do now is make a bracket to keep the filter from rattling up against the valve cover


oh, and install the motor in the car
 
Here's how we bent the one for my son's 360 for his Holley carb. You can copy the end at the fuel pump, and adjust for the inlet location at the top.

I just get a 60" piece of 5/16 steel tubing with double flares on both ends, then bend the part for the fuel pump and get it to the fuel filter location, then cut it.

Then I work from the carb back to the fuel filter.

No double flare tool needed.


I like to use an old wire coat hanger to make a model of my planned routing and test fit it for clearance, then try to copy the bends onto the steel tubing to match.

You want to come right out of the fuel pump with two 90° bends as close together as you can get them (a full 180° bend will work if you can make one, if not get as close as you can with two 90° bends as close together as you can bend them. You have to keep it tight to get around the alternator and fuel pump here. But for the second 90° bend, you want to put about a 15° angle forward on it, to get it close to the fuel pump center.

Then make it come straight up between the dipstick tube, alternator, and alternator
brackets.

Then figure out where you need to bend to go for your carb inlet, and cut for a fuel filter.

Then like I said, start at the carb, and work your way back to the fuel filter.

For ours, you can see the hose takes a 90° bend after coming out of the carb. I bent a piece of steel tubing to 90° and worked it into the hose to keep the 90° bend from kinking the hose with inertia and vibration which could restrict fuel flow. I use the 90° bend to keep the form rigid and support the inside of the fuel hose from collapsing from possibly kinking. Like a steel sleeve on the inside of the hose...

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Fuel Line A01 B.jpg

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Fuel Line A02 B.jpg

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Fuel Line A03 B.jpg

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Fuel Line A04 B.jpg

View attachment Ken 360 041114 Fuel Line A05 B.jpg
 
very close to what I did
(I bend mine before you posted those pictures or I would have followed your example)

I used a piece of old fuel line instead of a coathanger


I ran across the other side of the fuelpump and up the other side of the carb since im running an eddy carb

(only picture I have so far)
 
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