Purchased 1973 duster a few weeks ago need help

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NCallpar

NCallpar

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Hello to everyone! I just purchased my uncles 1973 plymouth duster a few weeks ago and am i need of some ideas and help. The car has been sitting in a garage for 5 plus years. It was an original 340 car in 1973 however the 340 that is in it now in a 1970 motor. It is a factory 4 speed with a cast iron bell housing. I did get the original aluminum one with the car. The motor was built by a local machine shop in the late 80's. Not sure of any specs but it has been bored has what i would call a mild cam and an edelbrock carb and intake with the factory 1970 heads assuming they have had some tweaking done to them also. To get it running i had to install a fuel pump and filter and put all new rubber fuel lines up to the carb. Upon getting it running i attempted to back it out of the garage. That is when i notice the front wheels dragging because the pad had rusted to the rotor. Got it cleaned up enough to drive a short distance home and noticed lots of pulling towards the rusted rotor side that i cleaned up and just seemed like tons of drag on the car from the brakes. After getting it home i re did all the brakes. Calipers....pads...flex lines front and rear....shoes...wheel cylinders and all drum hardware. All wheels spun freely on jack stands and seemed to bleed out fine. I am still feeling like there is drag or something holding the car back. I have jacked it back up and everything spins freely. Could this be a carb issue from sitting? also I have notice a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sending unit at the back of the intake manifold. Is there any way this oil could be churning up into the bell housing somehow and getting on the flywheel? If the car sits for a few days and the oil dries up the clutch seems to feel much stronger and more responsive but as soon as i go do the street and back the clutch feels weak as if it is slipping. Also the 4 speeds first gear seems very rough on take off like it is lopeing or bucking real badly and smooths right out after getting up to speed? I own and work on 3 mopar 4x4 trucks so I am somewhat used to my way around mopars but this is my first a body. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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Just a couple comments- I would fix that sending unit right away, and did you drain all that old fuel out? Dumb question-I assume you used new bearings up front, and you greased them properly? They have to be greased. Sweet car!
 
NCallpar said:
Hello to everyone! I just purchased my uncles 1973 plymouth duster a few weeks ago and am i need of some ideas and help. The car has been sitting in a garage for 5 plus years. It was an original 340 car in 1973 however the 340 that is in it now in a 1970 motor. It is a factory 4 speed with a cast iron bell housing. I did get the original aluminum one with the car. The motor was built by a local machine shop in the late 80's. Not sure of any specs but it has been bored has what i would call a mild cam and an edelbrock carb and intake with the factory 1970 heads assuming they have had some tweaking done to them also. To get it running i had to install a fuel pump and filter and put all new rubber fuel lines up to the carb. Upon getting it running i attempted to back it out of the garage. That is when i notice the front wheels dragging because the pad had rusted to the rotor. Got it cleaned up enough to drive a short distance home and noticed lots of pulling towards the rusted rotor side that i cleaned up and just seemed like tons of drag on the car from the brakes. After getting it home i re did all the brakes. Calipers....pads...flex lines front and rear....shoes...wheel cylinders and all drum hardware. All wheels spun freely on jack stands and seemed to bleed out fine. I am still feeling like there is drag or something holding the car back. I have jacked it back up and everything spins freely. Could this be a carb issue from sitting? also I have notice a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sending unit at the back of the intake manifold. Is there any way this oil could be churning up into the bell housing somehow and getting on the flywheel? If the car sits for a few days and the oil dries up the clutch seems to feel much stronger and more responsive but as soon as i go do the street and back the clutch feels weak as if it is slipping. Also the 4 speeds first gear seems very rough on take off like it is lopeing or bucking real badly and smooths right out after getting up to speed? I own and work on 3 mopar 4x4 trucks so I am somewhat used to my way around mopars but this is my first a body. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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Obviously junk. I can take it off yer hands for little or nothing
 
i did not dump out all the old fuel but put plenty of fresh 93 in it. i will go back and grease the bearings also. i will fix the oil leak first then get the carb rebuilt. i will keep you posted on if these take care of any of the issues the car is having. The majority of the problem is just on take off in first gear. After it gets up to speed in first it pulls very strong so i dont suspect anything too major is wrong.
 
That car should roll easy. The oil sender could be leaking or the gasket at the end of the intake could be leaking. Drain the 4 speed lube and replace with SAE 90 gear lube. After years of sitting, gas turns real bad, especially with alcohol added. A 340 will require a good clutch, not a parts store "rebuilt" clutch and pressure plate. I've had those slip in high gear within months.
 
Ship it to me. I will take care of it.
No, you won't be getting it back til I'm all done. It will probably take me several years to do a good job, so don't hold you're breath.I promise not to drive it in the snow tho.
All kidding aside, lube the U-joints, change all the fluids, and crank in some timing. If it still feels like it's dragging a 5th wheel, check the rear diff. ratio,lol.
The chattery clutch is probably why it got parked?
 
That car deserves a through going over . Perform all suggestions above and I would add , replace ALL the fluids and rebuild the carb . BTW nice RAmcharger .
 
On your dragging brakes.
You changed to front lines.
But if some trash was in the system it could have "wedged" in the new lines.
I had this happen and it drove me crazy trying to figure it out.
When you step on the brakes the pressure expands the rubber and lets a piece of trash in there.
When you take your foot off the line contracts and does not let the pressure bleed off quickly.
It's a very small opening in the line.
You might want to jack the car up and check for the front wheels to turn freely after hitting the brakes.
Might be a wild goose chase too.
 
Congrats on an amazing car!!

First, in addition to the suggestions above, take a look at your fuel supply to the motor. I'd replace the fuel filter ASAP. It's a cheap, 10 minute job that could eliminate a failure point. Next, take a whiff in the carb and the tank to see if there's still some varnished gas in there. The smell is unmistakable...I agree with those who suggest a carb rebuild regardless, but at the very least, evidence of varnished gas is a strong indicator that you could have a gummed-up fuel line prior to the filter.

Second, perhaps obvious but it might not hurt to mention regarding this feeling of something holding the car back-- you can eliminate the concerns over dragging brakes or wheel bearings by doing a basic coast-down test with the car in neutral. Obviously, it should roll right along easily under its own momentum.

Double-check that parking brake to make sure it's fully releasing. ;)
 
If your bellhousing is like mine then oil can definitely make its way onto the clutch and that not something you want to happen. Fix the leak now. It's an easy job if it's the sending unit at the back. If oil is leaking onto your clutch then that might cause some chatter while taking off. Worst case scenario you pull the trans and have a look at the clutch.
 
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