Put a Champion 526 radiator in a 71 swinger?

-
WA71swinger

WA71swinger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2011
Messages
96
Reaction score
0
Location
Eastern Washington
I'm not sure my hood will close if I install this radiator in the stock location replacing the /6 radiator. The stock radiator is about 19 inches to the top of the cap (rough measurement while in the car). Has anyone tried installing the 2374 Champion or the American eagle 2374? Its listed for a 70 charger/challenger. It would be awesome if like 15 people replied that both radiators fit perfect (with pics to show how well it worked out) LOL. its never quite that easy. Big HP claims on Monster Cooling for the American Eagle. Is 1"tubes that much more efficient than 3/4"? I will be trying to cool close to 400hp 11:1 small block. Any help is appreciated. Not sure if I'm supposed to be starting a "thread" or am posting this correctly. Set me straight if not.
 


I have the Champion CC374. It fits like this if you pop a paint stick under it to space it up during drilling and drill your own holes in the core support. With the Contour V6 fans shown here controlled by a Dakota Digital fan controller, it easily keeps my 9.8:1 470hp 340 cool using only the low speed during a 90 degree day, and the fans even cycle on and off!!!
 
thanks goldduster318. That looks good. It also looks very much the same as my swinger. When I measured the swinger I got a max overall width of 26", I also have a 440 swinger with a 26" overall length radiator in it that had to relocate the battery to the trunk and other cutting to stuff it in there. The CC374 is listed as 28 3/4" wide. It doesn't look that wide in your picture. I'll have to measure my 440 radiator again when I get a chance but I measured it when I had it rebuilt this summer. It was 26 wide x20 1/4 T by memory. I had measured it knowing I would need another (slightly less wide) for this car. I would appreciate if you could measure your CC374 to give actual measurement whenever you get a chance. By the way, very encouraging to hear that it is working so well for you. Any chance you have a thread on that fan set up (relay, wiring, where to get fan, part numbers, etc.) I know I'm asking a lot. Whatever help I get I will appreciate. Going to try and check out some pics of your ride it looks very nice. Is that 3 core or 4? Thanks, David
 
I forget the numbers, but I have a Champion 26" 3 row radiator in my Duster. Should be the same numerics as goldduster318's. The fans are the same Ford Contour set up. :D

I did drill a couple new holes in the radiator mounting brackets to get it to sit at the right height, sounds like the same thing goldduster did. Fits perfect, cools great. I have a 340 punched out .060" to 4.1" bore, 9.8:1 compression, and probably 420-430 hp.

ChallengerGary on here sells Champion radiators, that's where I got mine.

IMG_0829.jpg


IMG_1558_zps3b79216a.jpg


IMG_1563_zpsdd343921.jpg
 
This is the size it called for my dart except I got a thicker 4 core.

Which ended up being so thick I couldn't use the clutch fan setup anymore.

Which was ok with me and I installed two fans in front of the radiator for a cleaner look.

As far as sticking a b-body radiator in your a body a tape measure or test fit will tell

The new radiator actually sat a little lower than the original so it had extra hood clearance
 

Attachments

  • 100_1336.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 1,911
  • 100_1339.jpg
    90.3 KB · Views: 1,813
I have a CC374 in my Dart and it fit perfect!!
 

Attachments

  • 008 (800x600).jpg
    73.9 KB · Views: 1,841
Thanks for all the info and pics. Very encouraging. I measured both cars for existing and potential. Looks like I have more options than I thought. Don't see much space for clutch fan in any of the pics. Thinking about trying a two row so I can keep the clutch fan. Its supposed to be like over 5000cfm per other's posts. Also have a 16" pusher/puller (not very powerful, no name fan) on the front and an external tranny cooler I would like to keep in the setup. Would like to learn how to wire a relay. The 440 was done for me and it works awesome. looks like a plug and play. Wire runs to ignition but fan runs while car is off until it is 180 degrees by the gage, then shuts itself off. Perfect.
After measuring small block swinger I find that core support has 22" opening. Total width of current slant6 radiator bracket (more bracket than radiator, lol) is 25". Bottom of radiator to top of cap measures 22 1/2" (is there an airflow problem if the next one sits an inch low?). Total height with spacers on radiator cap and still able to shut the hood is 24 1/4" MAX. (do I really want to press down on cap?) Both inlet and outlet on /6 radiator are on passenger side. I do not see a replacement radiator with that configuration. Should not be a big deal re routing the top hose away from the fan. This radiator looks to be the best fit without mods, maybe just drilling holes for the mount. If I am really lucky this period correct 22' core bolts right in. Plus hopefully room for fan in front. Any input appreciated. Did you guys modify the lower radiator support in your cars to get that CC374 to sit that low? Looking for that configuration in a 2 row (thinner design) and not finding it. How about the HP claims of the radiator below? Ya' F in right:wack:
51FKbmyZuvL._SX300_.jpg



$161.55 + $29.44 shipping
In Stock. Sold by Monster Cooling
Add to Cart

Champion Cooling Systems, 2 Row with 1" Tubes All Aluminum Replacement Radiator For 1970-1971 Dodge Challenger, 1970-1972 Dodge Charger, 1970-1973 Dodge Coronet, 1970-1973 Plymouth Barracuda, 1970 Plymouth Belvedere, 1972-1973 Plymouth Roadrunner, 1971-1973 Plymouth Satellite, Engine application: 318ci V8, American Eagle Part #AE2374


  • Core Dimensions: 15 7/8" high x 21 1/2" wide x 2 1/2" thick - 3 Row Core
  • Overall Dimensions: 21 1/8" high x 25 3/4" wide x 2 3/4" tank thickness -
  • Hose Locations: In-Driver 1 1/2"/Out-Passenger 1 3/4" -
  • Trans Cooler: Included / Mounting: Bracket
  • High-rated 2 Row Core with 1" Cooling Tubes, Cools 700hp!!
 
72bluNblu can you read the part number off that top radiator hose? I need that one. Save me from dealing with the kid at the parts store counter (the what make and model, engine or I cant help you routine gets old). LOL
 
Thank you challengergary. I almost ordered it and then I thought I would try to contact you first. You saved me the trouble. Let me know if the AE2374 can be had. Monster Cooling says they have 3 of them. Looking for a 2 core so I can continue to use my clutch fan (space issue due to thickness of radiator). What would be even better is a 526 design that was 2 rows instead of 3. Or even better someone showing me that they were able to use their clutch fan in a 70 to 72 swinger with the 3 core 526. Any help is appreciated.
 
I'm fairly certain the clutch fan I ran prior to using this radiator would have worked with my 3-row radiator. If not, I know there was a shorter fan clutch that's been talked about on here that I believe was from a Jaguar.

Honestly, unless the cost is an issue, I HIGHLY recommend the 26" radiator with the Contour Fans. The opening on my car is still the stock 22", it doesn't matter so much - There really is no reason that you'd have to open it up.

The width they give you is with the tabs. The tabs are only above the framerails. As you can see, it fits fine. I didn't modify the support other than drilling holes for the radiator...like I said, I put a paint stick underneath for clearance when I was marking to drill the holes.

If you PM me your email, I have a PDF on what you need and how to wire and set up the fan controller. The dakota digital controller is held onto my heater box with HD velcro!
 
I like the contour fans. Are you getting them from salvage yards or ???
 
I bought mine on Ebay for about $50, but if you see a Contour or Mystique with a 24V DOHC badge on the side, it has this fan.

I would personally rather have a used OEM Ford/Bosch motor on my car than a chinese replacement one of questionable quality.

To do what I did, you need:
1) Electric Fan setup from 1995-2000 Ford Contour, Mercury
Mystique, or Mercury Cougar with 2.5L 24V V6 engine
2) Fan motor Connectors (3x) Standard Motor Products PN S287
3) Dakota Digital Fan Controller PN: PAC-2750
4) 70 amp Relay (one comes with controller, two needed) Dakota
Digital PN: RLY-3
5) 60 amp Maxi-Fuse with Holder, Ron Francis PN MF60
6) Inline Fuse holders with 5a fuse (2x)
7) 10 ga wire for fan power and grounds (red and black
recommended)
8) 18 ga wire for control circuits
9) 4 ft 1/8” x 1 aluminum flat bar

This is my hastily made wiring diagram:
Contour_Fan_Wiring_zpsfc112fe5.jpg


And the remaining settings/notes:
-Set controller to use a “Dual Speed Fan”
-With a 180 thermostat, set low speed on to 195,
and off to 192. High speed should be set to on
at 205 and off at 200
- The fan will draw about 18 amps on low and 30
on high. This will likely require alternator
upgrades. My car runs a 78 amp 12SI Delco
from a 1985 Pontiac Firebird 305 V8. Do not
draw this current though the factory amp gauge
and bulkhead connector
 
How thick are the fans?? I'm looking for an upgrade on my race car and would probably run each fan with a separate switch. Running one for the run and both for cool down.
 
The contour fans are about 3.5" thick. Thick enough that I can't run the "cap" on my March serpentine water pump pulley. But without it I have plenty of room.

I bought my fan set up from Summit, its a Dorman piece made in China. I pulled another set up from the wrecking yard, it was stamped "made in the USA". I'd be running that one if the shroud hadn't been cracked, but I do have the set of spare motors. That's also where I got my wiring harness for the fans. I just pulled a couple of unnecessary wires out of the harness and used it. Since I got the whole thing half off it was actually cheaper than buying the connectors and wire.

I'll get the part# off the radiator hose in the morning. :-D
 
Honestly, unless the cost is an issue, I HIGHLY recommend the 26" radiator with the Contour Fans.

Not sure if I'm doing the quote thing right or not. I could afford to do the contour fan route, but if I didn't need to spend twice as much replacing the radiator I would rather spend the extra on longer rear wheel studs, subframe connectors, and a tranny hoop. Stuff like that. This mopar hobby is more like an obsession. drag racing coming up again here in a couple of months and we have a long season here in the desert. Through October. I am definitely NOT complaining. I spent an average of about 300 dollars a week on my cars and drag racing last year, not to mention purchasing the 440 dart. I am trying to be more responsible LOL.
Trying to buy a truck and trailer this year. Kind of hard on the drivetrain with 391 posi, and $90 in gas driving to the track each week. This new motor is 11:1. not looking to drive it that far.
Point is. Probably contour fan is money well spent. May end up kicking myself if I don't do it. Could always ad it later if I need it . long term plan is paying off house fast then I will have lots more $ for hotrodding!!! Seems like a reasonable life plan to me.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Can be had new on ebay for around $100 or so. I bought mine used on there. Rock Auto has them IIRC or did when i bought mine. I wired mine up to a cheap controller not sure how these guys are doing it. Looks like one of them has used the factory harness from the contour.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/620-104-Dor...ord|Model:Contour&hash=item2588b4f576&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

Which controller did you use for yours?

I am about to order a 26" champion rad from Gary for my scamp and would like to go with the countour fans. For the price brand new they seem like a wicked deal. Just not a fan of using a fancy controller, unless there are decent ones out there that aren't too expensive.
 
mshred said:
Which controller did you use for yours?

I am about to order a 26" champion rad from Gary for my scamp and would like to go with the countour fans. For the price brand new they seem like a wicked deal. Just not a fan of using a fancy controller, unless there are decent ones out there that aren't too expensive.
Click to expand...

The thing is that you pretty much need the fancy controller OR two controllers to use the dual speed feature. You could use only the low speed or only the high speed, however, the high speed is pretty high current draw, and the inrush current during startup would be pretty severe. If that's what you wanted to do, I'd use a controller for low speed, and have a switch to turn a relay on for the high speed that is manual. So, you'd use the same diagram as above for the relays but connect the second trigger wire to your switch. You have to use the 70A relays regardless. No normal controller without relays or switch can handle the current draw.

The low speed is probably plenty. I'll bet you can still get these things wicked cheap at a salvage yard. Hell here's a listing on Ebay for $35 [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-CONTOUR-RADIATOR-FAN-MOTOR-DUAL-FANS-ID-95BB-GC-AND-GD-195624-/380835204578?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AContour&hash=item58ab8c0de2&vxp=mtr"]1999 Contour Radiator Fan Motor Dual Fans ID 95BB GC and GD 195624 | eBay[/ame]
 
goldduster318 said:
The thing is that you pretty much need the fancy controller OR two controllers to use the dual speed feature. You could use only the low speed or only the high speed, however, the high speed is pretty high current draw, and the inrush current during startup would be pretty severe. If that's what you wanted to do, I'd use a controller for low speed, and have a switch to turn a relay on for the high speed that is manual. So, you'd use the same diagram as above for the relays but connect the second trigger wire to your switch. You have to use the 70A relays regardless. No normal controller without relays or switch can handle the current draw.

The low speed is probably plenty. I'll bet you can still get these things wicked cheap at a salvage yard. Hell here's a listing on Ebay for $35 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-CONTOU...its=Model:Contour&hash=item58ab8c0de2&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

Why the need for dual 70amp relays instead of just one? Does each fan draw 70 amps?
 
mshred said:
Why the need for dual 70amp relays instead of just one? Does each fan draw 70 amps?
Click to expand...

One relay for low speed and one for high speed. The controller shuts the low off when the high comes on and vice versa. If you wanted to control them normally, you'd actually have to wire them in such a way that both relays wouldn't be closed at the same time.

The fans draw about 20 amps constant on low and 40-45 on high. Since most other relays are either 30 or 40 amps, you need 70 amp ones to be reliable. In the contour, they use 2 70A relays and a 60 Amp Maxi-Fuse. I just copied what they did.

Its likely the inrush from stopped to high is near 70 amps for an instant. This won't blow a 60A fuse, but its a lot of current draw and would likely fry a 40 amp relay pretty quick.
 
I should also mention that from a controller standpoint, you treat these as a single dual speed fan, kind of like the one for a 3.8L Taurus. You don't ever want to have one and not the other running, especially on our downflow radiators. The effectiveness would be lowered pretty substantially.
 
This is great info man, thank you!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top