Bugman
Well-Known Member
Yours
The wet gasket on the float bowl and black spark plugs indicate the problem could simply be a sunk/heavy float, causing it to run rich, also explains why mixture screws have no authority.
Find someone to repair the carb.
Good luck .
I sanded the airhorn casting mating surface and I don't think it is seeping any gas now. The clip that holds the float hinge rod may have been interfering with the air horn seating fully against the body so I adjusted that also. The brass floats seem fine, no holes.
I think over time the tabs with the holes for the airhorn screws can bend under the force of the screws and cause the casting to not be flat.
Depends on which Province or State you’re in. Here in BC, Chevron has 94 octane which contains NO ethanol and it also has its own hose so you’re not getting drips of ethanol from a previous user who filled with 87, 89 or 91. I‘m not sure if Chevron is in Ontario but Shell is for sure.I'm going to try this:
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Based on some web searching I've just done, I'm reading conflicting info about which gasoline brands and which octane has or doesn't have ethanol here in Ontario.
I was assuming any gas I buy anywhere, regardless of octane, has 10% enthanol. Maybe not?
I"ll give it a thumbs down. I've run the BBD like you have and the one pictured for many, many miles. Both will work but, I prefer the earlier version. Take the carb you have, clean it and put a kit in it. If you decide to chunk that BBD, send it to me.
Engine warm, choke fully open, all vacuum ports plugged. idle speed set at spec, idle mixture screws set to smooth idle (or maximum vacuum). It probably won't get any better than that. What's your base timing set at with everything I mentioned correct? Things that may cause poor idle that you can't adjust to make it better, loose timing chain, Worn cam lobes and lifter faces, valves not seating (worn guides, valve margins and seats), intake vacuum leaks, Power brake booster vacuum leaks, the list can go on and on." long cranking after hot and shut off ".
That's not the problem I have. I don't like how it idles, I think it idles too rich, plugs are sooty, I've played with the idle screws, best idle and vac are with screws about 1 turn out, maybe a bit less.
I wasn't looking for how to really do an r&r on the carb that's on the car now, I was looking for an opinion or experience if others have bought and used the various BBD clones that are available on ebay / amazon.
I wouldn't buy one of those carbs. I would rebuild the old one. If you aren't comfortable doing it yourself have someone do it that does." long cranking after hot and shut off ".
That's not the problem I have. I don't like how it idles, I think it idles too rich, plugs are sooty, I've played with the idle screws, best idle and vac are with screws about 1 turn out, maybe a bit less.
I wasn't looking for how to really do an r&r on the carb that's on the car now, I was looking for an opinion or experience if others have bought and used the various BBD clones that are available on ebay / amazon.
Cold compression test gives 150 - 160 PSI.Engine warm, choke fully open, all vacuum ports plugged. idle speed set at spec, idle mixture screws set to smooth idle (or maximum vacuum). It probably won't get any better than that. What's your base timing set at with everything I mentioned correct? Things that may cause poor idle that you can't adjust to make it better, loose timing chain, Worn cam lobes and lifter faces, valves not seating (worn guides, valve margins and seats), intake vacuum leaks, Power brake booster vacuum leaks, the list can go on and on.