Ready to Remove Old 273 for New 360

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RichardJ916

RichardJ916

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I was wondring what more needs to be removed besides mounts on motor, headers, and all elecrtical, Bell Housings, someone told me maybe the Z linkage needs to be removed for the 4 speed. I am ready to remove motor. I have a Haynes book and have read it but still unsure of what more needs to be removed..... Any help Please....
Thanks
 
I believe the reason for the z bar mod not replacement is because the z bar will hit the headers. My car already had headers when I bought it with a 273. The z bar had already been modified by previous owner to accept the headers. They cut the part of the z bar that attaches to the clutch linkage of the transmission and added 1/4" flat stock so it would miss the header tubes (Hooke headers). Now when I installed the 360 with TTI headers I had to grind down the end of the z-bar so it would miss the tube. That was it just a little grinding.
 
mullinax95 said:
I believe the reason for the z bar mod not replacement is because the z bar will hit the headers. My car already had headers when I bought it with a 273. The z bar had already been modified by previous owner to accept the headers. They cut the part of the z bar that attaches to the clutch linkage of the transmission and added 1/4" flat stock so it would miss the header tubes (Hooke headers). Now when I installed the 360 with TTI headers I had to grind down the end of the z-bar so it would miss the tube. That was it just a little grinding.
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I was just wondering if it needs to be removed or unhooked in order for the motor to be removed. It has headers allready, just ready to remove old motor and install new 360.
 
you do not need to remove the z-bar to remove the engine, if you are leaving the tranny in. You will want to remove the fan & starter. What I did was when I lifted the engine high enough to get the engine mount bolts to clear, I supported the underneath side of the tranny with a jack so when I slid the engine forward off of the input shaft, the tranny didnt slam back down. I didnt remove the tranny mount but the tranny will still rotate this much.
 
I sure as HECK would remove it. All you need to do is screw up just one little bit and "hang" the trans/ bell down a little low, and there you are, you've bent something or you've broke the bushings in the Z bar. Geez, how long does it take 2 minutes to pull it off the bracket?
 
I am confused. You said you need to change the bell housing, so doesn't that mean you will pull the engine and tranny together? That isn't much harder and makes things much easier to work on.
 
Yep pull it all out once is easier. Installing it the same way is easier as well.
 
seymour_scamp said:
you do not need to remove the z-bar to remove the engine, if you are leaving the tranny in. You will want to remove the fan & starter. What I did was when I lifted the engine high enough to get the engine mount bolts to clear, I supported the underneath side of the tranny with a jack so when I slid the engine forward off of the input shaft, the tranny didnt slam back down. I didnt remove the tranny mount but the tranny will still rotate this much.
Click to expand...

Thanks sounds much easier then i thought, yes i am going to leave the 4 speed in the car when i remove the motor....

Thanks Again
 
BillGrissom said:
I am confused. You said you need to change the bell housing, so doesn't that mean you will pull the engine and tranny together? That isn't much harder and makes things much easier to work on.
Click to expand...
No i am going to leave the trans in the car and just remove the motor.
Wanted to know if the z bar needed to be removed off in order to pull the motor...
 
Have everything unhooked and ready to pull the engine and trans. Jack the car up in the rear end so you will have the back tires off the ground a good bit, therefore allows the tail section of the trans more room to move towards the floor while you are lifting the engine out of the bay, trans goes down front of engine goes up. Installation is the same way, vice versa after you get the trans engine assembly in then let the back of the car down, you will know when it is apparent to let the back of the car down. I installed the engine and trans TOTALLY by myself in my cuda in this fashion. I tried doing it with the trans already installed and lost my cool a couple of times until I pleaded for help on here. A fellow member told me how to do it and BAM she went in with no problems. I told myself then I will never attempt to do it the other way again. I might have gotten it in with the trans already installed but even though I use the clutch alignment tool she still wouldn't go. Now if someone was there to push the clutch in it would loosened it up enough for the pilot shaft to go into the pilot bushing.... that's what I was fighting the whole time. I loosened the pressure plate up so it would give, mounted the trans to the bell housing then turned eveything over TWICE to torque specs on the fly wheel bolts. I reached the bolts through the clutch fork holes. Let me know if I or others can help you.
 
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