PS. That rear around here would go anywhere from 500 to 800 bucks.
rear end question
- Thread starter 38 Dodge
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I was actually thinking about taking it to a rear end shop in town and let them check everything out.
Or are they something that I can do? my limited knowledge of rear ends make me a little apprehensive.
Or are they something that I can do? my limited knowledge of rear ends make me a little apprehensive.
It depends on what you want to do. They aren't that hard to work on but there are steps that require a dial indicator (which you will want anyway when setting axle end play). When I bought mine I went completely through it and I had limited knowledge as well. After tons of reading and the purchase of a couple of tools, and a couple I made, I tore into it and completely did everything. I was glad I did now I can do it again without being hesitant about it.
If you take it to a shop, if they are a reputable shop it can get pricey.
Yea, that is the down side of taking to a shop. I will start reading up on them and see what I'm going to do. One thing I do know is that I have alot help here so if I get into a jam I can always ask for help / advice.
grumpuscreature
Resident Curmudgeon
The rear end will be the last thing to break. People badmouth the 741 case but it is still stronger than a stock Ford 9". The only down side to the rear is the fact that small bolt pattern drums are getting scarce.
Badart
Senior Member
Here we go again. LOL
You can get a ton of info on the internet, just be specific in your searches.
As far as parts, Dr Diff. http://www.doctordiff.com/
Tools you would need a dial indicator, a spanner to adjust side movement on the carrier, someway to hold the yoke when torquing the pinion nut.
A torsional torque wrench would be helpful but I did mine without it and have no issues.
Here is a few places to start:
Dr Diff aka Cass contributed a lot of info here.
http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/axle.html
Gear set up.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/mopp_0308_mopar_rear_end_gears_set_up/
There is a ton more info to be had. The best thing you can do is read, read, and read some more. I don't know if you are in a hurry of if you have some time to study up on it.
And as always you can ask here. Bookmark this thread and just keep it going.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Nice score!Whatever you choose to do work wise,just remember when filling it back up,that you add the small bottle of sure-grip additive.You can buy it at any local Car parts store(NAPA).
Also maybe a good time to swap to LBP axels(better rim choices and brake parts easier to get)and the center section blocks are already out(parts that fell out)LOL
Also maybe a good time to swap to LBP axels(better rim choices and brake parts easier to get)and the center section blocks are already out(parts that fell out)LOL
prettyblue,
I'm confused? I understand about the LBP with the wheels; but how will changing the axles effect the brakes? Unless you are tlaking about the availability of LBP vrs SBP. Also what does the center section block effect with the differnt axles? I guess I'm thinking the only change would be the bolt pattern am I wrong with this line of thinking?
I'm confused? I understand about the LBP with the wheels; but how will changing the axles effect the brakes? Unless you are tlaking about the availability of LBP vrs SBP. Also what does the center section block effect with the differnt axles? I guess I'm thinking the only change would be the bolt pattern am I wrong with this line of thinking?
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
As said earlier,SBP brake parts are getting pretty hard to find(10x1 3/4 drums,shoes,backing plates)When swapping to LBP axels,most have them made for 10x2 1/2 inch brakes(most parts stores still carry most parts).Doing this you have to also swap the backing plates,shoes,drums and E-brake bar.You could always have your SBP axels,drums drilled for LBP.
Oh,also with going with the LBP axels,most take the center section blocks out,which your have already fallen out.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Scott is a he!! of a nice guy, smart and a great mod, but i wouldn't call him pretty....
.OK Scott it is, I will not make that mistaake again
Oh,also with going with the LBP axels,most take the center section blocks out ( ? ),which your have already fallen out.
if I do the LPB axle conversion do they sell all these items in a kit or will I have to try and scroung around trying to find the parts?
Oh,also with going with the LBP axels,most take the center section blocks out ( ? ),which your have already fallen out.
if I do the LPB axle conversion do they sell all these items in a kit or will I have to try and scroung around trying to find the parts?
Either bookmark it in your favorites or keep track of it through the board so you can keep it going. It becomes hard to follow when someone keeps opening new threads with questions about the same thing.
OK Scott it is, I will not make that mistaake again
Oh,also with going with the LBP axels,most take the center section blocks out ( ? ),which your have already fallen out.
if I do the LPB axle conversion do they sell all these items in a kit or will I have to try and scroung around trying to find the parts?
If you go to LBP axles and they are the same length as the SBP you will need the thrust buttons in there to set axle end play. If you decide to go with the sealed bearings aka "green bearings" then you would want to leave the thrust buttons out.
The distance from the bearing to axle face is different on SBP and LBP. Distance is longer on LBP and the brakes do not transfer across.
Cass has proper length axles so you don't have to monkey with the blocks/buttons. Most of the axles out there are not the proper length, too long. If you shoose to go BBP, Tell Cass what you have, style of Sure Grip, and he'll get you set up with what you need for axles.
Cass has proper length axles so you don't have to monkey with the blocks/buttons. Most of the axles out there are not the proper length, too long. If you shoose to go BBP, Tell Cass what you have, style of Sure Grip, and he'll get you set up with what you need for axles.
Bruce,
I was reading some in teh Moparts link you sent me and I have a question?
on the 8 3/4 Axle end play and adjuster lock page it talks about a right side axle retainer should have a threaded adjuster on it held locked in place with a finger type retainer attached t one of retainer bolts. I did not have anything like this on mine when I took my axles out the other day. Do you know anything about this?
I was reading some in teh Moparts link you sent me and I have a question?
on the 8 3/4 Axle end play and adjuster lock page it talks about a right side axle retainer should have a threaded adjuster on it held locked in place with a finger type retainer attached t one of retainer bolts. I did not have anything like this on mine when I took my axles out the other day. Do you know anything about this?
It's a threaded ring that you set your axle end play/bearing preload with, the locking tab is a keeper.
Well I would determine which way you want to go. If you pickup some aftermarket axles and use the green bearings then you won't need it, nor will you need the thrust buttons in the suregrip.
Pentastarnut
67' Barracuda
i have a pair of Yukon axles with green bearings ready to go if you decide to go bbp. the 741 case is fine for what you wanna do with the Barracuda, and 3.23's are a great all around gear unless you want more umph out the hole and don't plan on driving long distances. i run 3.23's but i'm having a spool in a 741 case with 3.91's set up for having fun
Just to point out the obvious, if you get talked into going LBP on the axle, you will also need to go LBP on the front, or carry two spares <gr>. So that's another project.
I'm just pointing out that you want to have a plan for the whole project, starting with deciding if you are going to drive it, and upgrade things over time, or if you are going to tear everything down and do it all at once. Experience shows that the first approach results in a lot more miles on the road, if not necessarily a show-worthy result; the second approach leads to a lot of carport ornaments and "non-running project car for sale" ads, and the occasional knock-out showpiece.
Sorry, wandering off-topic here...
My inclination would be to check out the axle, and if everything looks OK, just run it. If not, then you have the SBP/LBP decision to make, and others.
I'm just pointing out that you want to have a plan for the whole project, starting with deciding if you are going to drive it, and upgrade things over time, or if you are going to tear everything down and do it all at once. Experience shows that the first approach results in a lot more miles on the road, if not necessarily a show-worthy result; the second approach leads to a lot of carport ornaments and "non-running project car for sale" ads, and the occasional knock-out showpiece.
Sorry, wandering off-topic here...
My inclination would be to check out the axle, and if everything looks OK, just run it. If not, then you have the SBP/LBP decision to make, and others.
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