Rear Leaf Spring ???

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jhdeval

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I ended up ordering the bushings and parts from springsnthings.com Several people had recommended it and after lots of searching I just decided it was easier.

My friend and I were talking tonight about how to remove the old bushings. I talked about drilling the old bushings and burning them. Then he recommended using a piece of pipe to pull them out.

I thought about it and here is what we came up with. If we take a 2" or 2 1/8 inside diameter tube then a piece of threaded rod with several washers. Feed it through the sleeve then just tighten it down and pull it through.
 
Thats basicaly how I R&R the upper control arm bushings. Should work you will need a good quality threaded rod and some thick washers. Good luck.
 
Ok got all my parts and they look great but I have two questions. If I remove the leaf springs completely is there a way to determine where they mount back on the springs? They desperately need to be cleaned up. Secondly I bought polyurethane bushings and they gave me a TINY TINY tube of lubricant I understand they need to be crazy greased what grease can I use on them?
 
Rear springs have a locating dowel to properly position axel. Give consideration to replacing “U” bolts, which will allow proper torqueing of its fasteners.


Your homemade bushing remover-installer made from pipe fittings, and threaded rod will work just fine. I made up the same kind of contraption when re-bushing my car. It will not work on lower control arm bushings, you may have to have a machine shop, or Mopar friendly garage that has a hydraulic press replace them for you.
 
I used sil-glyde silicon grease on all my poly bushings and have had no squeaks yet. Now that I say that...
 
lol I know how that goes. WJA JR thank you for the information also. Can anyone tell me if I have to special order the ubolts or should I be able to get them at a parts store?
 
i would take one with a some auto zone guys dont know anymore than what the computer screen says
 
I don't think you need to dissasemble the springs, unless you plan to have them recurved. I haven't done so on my Dart, but refurbed the leafs on my Newport. If you jack the frame up so the rear axle hangs, the springs will open up. I used a pry bar to open slightly more to get the old square isolators out (leather w/ rivets) and install new ones (plastic w/ integral buttons). Once lowered, I put on new spring clamps (keeps leafs aligned).

You could then remove most of the rust by sliding sandpaper between the leafs and spray rust stop. Any paint between the leafs will probably wear away, so the sides are probably all you can paint anyway.

I didn't change the bushings since mine seemed hard to get out and the rubber was sound with just a few surface cracks. I'll wait until it deteriorates enough to get them out easy. I forgot if my new ones are rubber or hard plastic. I got all the parts piecemeal and inexpensive from a spring supplier (1990's). I still have the box at home.

On a side note, when I had my 2 Mopar minivans jacked up, I looked at their rear springs. A single leaf, nice and simple. I made a few measurements and thought, "might be adapted to fit my Dart or Newport". Just a thought for years from now when leaf springs are unobtanium. New ones already cost $$$$. There are only a gazillion minivans hitting the JY.
 
BillGrissom thank you. I did not plan to disassemble the leaf springs. I was just going to get the surface scale and old paint off.

Also my front bushings are in ok shape but the shackles are pretty shot. I decided to go ahead and replace both with polyurethane because I am slowly tightening up the suspension. I want a nice stiff ride. I eventually will by another car with a 318 or 383 in it that I want to be a canyon carver.
 
Springs & Things would most likely have “U” bolts if you decide to replace eye bushing on front of spring. Replacing rear shackle bushings can be done without removing the whole spring. Just unbolt shackle, lower rear end of spring, swap in new bushings, and bolt it back up. A helper, or hydraulic bottle jack will make the job go easer.

For a real good paint job, springs on should remove from car, disassembled, sand blasted, painted, reassembled with new antifriction pads, and reinstall. That’s a lot of work for something that won’t last long. Second method would be to degrease outer surface, power wire brush springs in place, and brush on rust killer paint such as POR-15, than top coat with regular paint to protect POR-15 like product from UV light.

Third method would be to purchase new springs, which are all painted, have new bushings installed, and provide correct ride height out of the box. New A Body rear springs are not real expensive. This is an option you should consider if you are re-bushing the front end, and upgrading torsion bars. Nothing like a little mission creep when doing suspension work… Don’t forget there are anti-sway bars to add, and sub-frame connectors…LOL
 
wjajr You are right. I can't afford to replace the leaf springs so I am going to take option "D" I am going to pull the springs and wire brush the areas I can get to then paint and reinstall with new bushings all around. Eventually I will likely replace them but I have priced them at like 350 that just is not in the budget at the moment.
 
Subframe connectors connect front subframe structure at the crossmember were torsion bars slide into, to rear torque box area where front end of rear spring mounts.

A Mopar branded example here, there are several other manufactures, and hundreds of home made connectors used.

Did you call ESPO for a quote?
 
Oh my freaking g-d that was SO much work. Nothing went smooth today. I got drivers side out and cleaned and painted. Started out breaking EVERY stud on the front spring mount. Anyone know where to find 3/8" studs? Then I kept starring into the damn sun so I lowered the garage door a bit and wouldn't you know it EVERY time I walked by it I bashed my head.

My home made removal tool worked like horse ****. I ended up using it and melting the rubber. It was the only way I could get it out.

In conclusion anyone who would like to under take this project and wants some help don't call me. lol
 
I went out to test fit the polyurethane bushings on the front. I am concerned. I measured the bushing and the leaf spring and the leaf spring appears to be 1/8 of inch smaller. When I line up the bushing and the leaf spring and they do not fit together. Am I supposed to remove the inner liner? Another option maybe would be to shave the front edge slightly so I have a shoulder to work with. Any ideas? Please I have a car in pieces and I want her back together.
 
That inner liner has to come out, it was part of the original bushing. It can be carefully torched out but I prefer to use an air chisel.
 
That makes me feel better not sure how I am going to get it out but I guess I will figure it out.

How about carefully with a hack saw? Cut out a small piece?
 
You can probably notch the end of the sleeve and then try to pound it out with a hammer and chisel. Not an easy job.. Good luck.
 
So I went and priced a Air Chisel. I can afford 20 bucks so I bought it. Tried it tonight and I think my technique needs work but I got it out and everything went well if not easily lol. I have new bushings in the front of the leaf spring at least. Thank you guys for the help sometimes just the support is the most important part. Oh and I think I am deaf forgot about ear protection for the first five minutes.
 
So while I was removing the front hanger the studs broke. I figured no problem just replace them with bolts. Nope can not do that because you cant mount it before attaching to the leaf spring. Any suggestions on what I can do? Firmfeel has the hangers for 65 dollars but other then broken studs mine are good.
 
Probably gonna have to get new or used hangers. I have never replaced just the studs, not saying it isn't possible. Someone on this board should have a pair (pm barracudakid).
 
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