Rear quarter rolling for clearance

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gumper

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So my new 28x10.5 slicks are a little larger in diameter than the 28x9s. For some reason the drivers side quarter panel is way too close to the tire. The passenger side has 3/4" clearance. The axle isn't crooked, so it must be from some amateur bodywork in the past (the thing was full of rust and bondo when I got it). What are some recommendations for gaining some clearance without screwing up the paint? I don't own a fender roller, and probably won't buy one for the only time I'll use it. Cutting it would be easiest. Hammer and dolly will probably crack the paint. A friend said try to run a wood dowl through there. Suggestions?

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So my new 28x10.5 slicks are a little larger in diameter than the 28x9s. For some reason the drivers side quarter panel is way too close to the tire. The passenger side has 3/4" clearance. The axle isn't crooked, so it must be from some amateur bodywork in the past (the thing was full of rust and bondo when I got it). What are some recommendations for gaining some clearance without screwing up the paint? I don't own a fender roller, and probably won't buy one for the only time I'll use it. Cutting it would be easiest. Hammer and dolly will probably crack the paint. A friend said try to run a wood dowl through there. Suggestions?

View attachment 1715048251
Fender roller aint gonna fix that. Air chisel or smaller tire.
 
So my new 28x10.5 slicks are a little larger in diameter than the 28x9s. For some reason the drivers side quarter panel is way too close to the tire. The passenger side has 3/4" clearance. The axle isn't crooked, so it must be from some amateur bodywork in the past (the thing was full of rust and bondo when I got it). What are some recommendations for gaining some clearance without screwing up the paint? I don't own a fender roller, and probably won't buy one for the only time I'll use it. Cutting it would be easiest. Hammer and dolly will probably crack the paint. A friend said try to run a wood dowl through there. Suggestions?

View attachment 1715048251
I made a template of the orig. opening, then cut it clear to the inner panel- leaving enough to re form the flat edge against the inner, looks stock except to the well versed. You will probly want a shorter slick, as it would take a repaint to do about anything to that area. Even taking a hammer to it will screw it up. Exactly how tall are the slicks measuring them top to bottom w/ the car on the setting on them ? I might take them of ur hands. Depending on price and shipping !--------bob
 
how much room is there on the back end of the tire?
maybe you can move the axle back some?

if you do decide to try and wrap that fender over, heat up the paint to get it soft and maybe, maybe it wont crack
but, it probably will
 
how much room is there on the back end of the tire?
maybe you can move the axle back some?

if you do decide to try and wrap that fender over, heat up the paint to get it soft and maybe, maybe it wont crack
but, it probably will
-/that might work in his case, but looks like he might need enough to warrant a new drive shaft length.
 
a guy needs slicks bad enough moving the rear back may not be beneficial,( rear end weight)
 
They are 28x10.5 M/Ts. I attempted to roll it over after heating the paint up to 130, but it just wasn't working out to look good. So I cut the inner lip off in that area, and used a grinder flapper wheel to slowly take metal off. Didn't hurt the paint on the outside of the wheel lip at all. Have a 1/2" clearance now which may or may not be enough. I'll only be trapping 125, so I figure less than an inch of growth. Going to get some seam sealer and take care of the gap that's leftover. The 28x9 slicks were 3/4" shorter in diameter, and just slightly rubbed that corner when they were new. I haven't even had the car on the ground yet with the new tires, so I'm not sure the weighted diameter.
 
They are 28x10.5 M/Ts. I attempted to roll it over after heating the paint up to 130, but it just wasn't working out to look good. So I cut the inner lip off in that area, and used a grinder flapper wheel to slowly take metal off. Didn't hurt the paint on the outside of the wheel lip at all. Have a 1/2" clearance now which may or may not be enough. I'll only be trapping 125, so I figure less than an inch of growth. Going to get some seam sealer and take care of the gap that's leftover. The 28x9 slicks were 3/4" shorter in diameter, and just slightly rubbed that corner when they were new. I haven't even had the car on the ground yet with the new tires, so I'm not sure the weighted diameter.
I thot he was talking about the front leading edge of the body, not the inner fender lip.
 
They are 28x10.5 M/Ts. I attempted to roll it over after heating the paint up to 130, but it just wasn't working out to look good. So I cut the inner lip off in that area, and used a grinder flapper wheel to slowly take metal off. Didn't hurt the paint on the outside of the wheel lip at all. Have a 1/2" clearance now which may or may not be enough. I'll only be trapping 125, so I figure less than an inch of growth. Going to get some seam sealer and take care of the gap that's leftover. The 28x9 slicks were 3/4" shorter in diameter, and just slightly rubbed that corner when they were new. I haven't even had the car on the ground yet with the new tires, so I'm not sure the weighted diameter.
they`ll probly still rub w/ that little clearance, you might think about drag radials , they don`t grow as much as slicks.
 
they`ll probly still rub w/ that little clearance, you might think about drag radials , they don`t grow as much as slicks.
That crossed my mind. I had an experience with radials last season. They didn't like our sh*tty track surface, so I went back to bias tires. Was an expensive experiment.
 
shim the front hanger an 1/8 you will not need a drive shaft, An 1/8 will move it a lot
 
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