rear suspension lift

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ajarofclay

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Hey all, looking for opinions on the simplest way to raise the back end OTHER than air shocks. Here is how she sits right now and for factory numbers, I believe the nose still should come up a bit. Also, the rear tires are already over an inch taller (a little over a half inch to the axle) than the fronts as it sits. It has been sitting on those rear springs for over 50 years now though but with very low miles so I'm not sure how much that factors in to it. If anyone is riding at stock heights, I'd appreciate if I could have some measurements from ground to top of the wheel well openings?

thumbnail.jpg
 
Just buy new springs assemblies and call it a day. Your bushings are dry and shot if all original. Regardless of low mileage. They have been holding up that car for 50 years.
 
Just buy new springs assemblies and call it a day. Your bushings are dry and shot if all original. Regardless of low mileage. They have been holding up that car for 50 years.
This ^^^^

Also, for what it's worth, one that sits and doesn't drive often will sag the springs faster, so the springs are probably done. Maybe the 340 XHD springs +1".
 
This ^^^^

Also, for what it's worth, one that sits and doesn't drive often will sag the springs faster, so the springs are probably done. Maybe the 340 XHD springs +1".
Yeah RRR, I debated just replacing the springs but I want to make sure it sits up a little higher than stock. The Duster/Demon body always looked like they sat too low to me. Thanks.
 
Yeah RRR, I debated just replacing the springs but I want to make sure it sits up a little higher than stock. The Duster/Demon body always looked like they sat too low to me. Thanks.
I agree 100%. I always thought they looked great with a little rake.
 
A side note... Not sure how that pic turned out so awkward. It looks like the nose has been stretched and the front wheels/tires look larger than the rears. I'll attach another when I get a free minute.
 
These are brand new ESPO +1 springs on my Duster. They haven't had a chance to settle yet. No adjustments were made to the torsion bars.

Before

1713956086547.jpeg


After
1713956129242.jpeg
 
Yeah RRR, I debated just replacing the springs but I want to make sure it sits up a little higher than stock. The Duster/Demon body always looked like they sat too low to me. Thanks.
Chicken or egg debate now. The springs are shot and drooping. If you replace with even MP springs the *** end will go up just because of the new springs. Trying to predict the height based off old junk springs is like guessing how many worms are under the grass. Unless you have psychic powers. If you did you would not be asking. lol!
 
Your front end is very high. Is that where you want it?
No, I would prefer it lower but according to factory specs, it should be a little higher still. I had adjusted the torsion bars per manual while on jackstands as far as it could get them to the outside of the LCA's and it seemed fine. When I put the tires one and set it down, it adjusted and now the specs are off a bit and ideally it needs to go a little higher. There's only about a half inch clearance for the rubber bumpers right now. THE FRONT TIRES ARE A LITTLE TALLER THAN STOCK THOUGH. Maybe an inch but that would get the axle up a half inch higher and the top of the tire would be a half inch more into the wheel well which doesn't seem to be the case. The rear tires are another 1 inch+ taller though so that should have helped a bit. It's pretty confusing. Again, if anyone could get a measurement from ground to the top of the wheel well openings, it would be helpful in compromising on heights. I'll adjust the TB's and get another pic.
 
call and get the height ya want. https://www.springsnthings.com/

the front tires look huge in the picture
Hey Joe, 100%. They actually aren't that big, I'll get a better pic. I see that springs and things is on the way to Carlisle. I drag my feet on getting back there every year but that may give me a reason to push myself. I don't like ordering stuff from afar for the most part. I prefer in person for a lot of reasons.
 
These are brand new ESPO +1 springs on my Duster. They haven't had a chance to settle yet. No adjustments were made to the torsion bars.

Before

These are brand new ESPO +1 springs on my Duster. They haven't had a chance to settle yet. No adjustments were made to the torsion bars.

Before

View attachment 1716240923

After
View attachment 1716240924
That stance looks great Brian, though the "before" pic seems to sit a little higher in back. I imagine it's because it's a true profile pic. I'd be happy with either one.
 
ANother vote for ESPO. They have standard springs and over lift springs available as well as all the necessary hardware. You could add a leaf but it's a lot of work and you still have 50 year old springs. Here's a before and after on my 66. My Espo standard springs. are now 19 years old.

randalia3.jpg


2.20.22c.jpg
 
I think your car looks fine...the way it's supposed to. Not a fan of that "jacked" look?
Here's my old Duster. With new springs i had to make new perches for the front of the spring
to lower it because there was too much air above the rear tire and it sat too high for me?
With it at the correct ride height and new stock A arm bushings i was able to get correct caster and the
ride was nice and handled fine.

073.JPG
 
Hey Joe, 100%. They actually aren't that big, I'll get a better pic. I see that springs and things is on the way to Carlisle. I drag my feet on getting back there every year but that may give me a reason to push myself. I don't like ordering stuff from afar for the most part. I prefer in person for a lot of reasons.
given when I got a quote from them, shipping was >25% the actual price of the springs, if they can deliver them there for less/free, I'd definitely go for it.
 
For now, here's a better pic without any exaggeration of the tires and wheels. I still need to get those torsion bars adjusted and factory settings which should raise the nose even more.

20240424_083146.jpg
 
another vote for ESPO. I have +1 springs on all my Darts - some of them 20 years old. They do settle in the first year and then more over time, so your best bet is a +1 or even a +2. Be sure to order 6 leaf springs - that's what all the 340 A bodies of your era came with. They come with the front bushings already pressed in. If you want a bit more room get a 3/4 inch inboard kit to snug the front hangers to the frame and uses offset rear shackles. You would have to move the perches on the rear axle in 3/4 of an inch and the kit comes with new perches. since you will already have the springs out it's not that much more work.
 
That stance looks great Brian, though the "before" pic seems to sit a little higher in back. I imagine it's because it's a true profile pic. I'd be happy with either one.
Thanks. I don't know exactly what you're seeing but the after is about three inches higher. I'm hoping for some settlement after I drive it for a few hundred miles.

Can you tell us what size tires you're running on front?
 
The factory tires on 340 cars were E70-14s
The E is code for 7.35 inch tread NOT a a section-width.
7.35 inches equals 186.69mm
On the factory 5.5 inch wheels the section width mightabin plus 2 inches .
Equals about 51mm
This would then total 187 + 51= 238, rounds up to 235mm.
However, the checking wheel for a 235 is 6.5", rounds to 7 inches, so on a 5.5 is gonna be maybe an inch and a half less. Let's call it a 195
This only matters when we go to calculate the tire height.
Thus the tire becomes 195
If the 195 is accurate, then at 70% the sidewall will be 5.37 inches. and that, doubled plus 14 equals 24.75 inches tall.
And that, friend, is pretty close , if a lil tall, to being correct.

the standard tires for a early Duster, were D78-14s, even a tic lower and were mounted on 5s
The front tires on your car, do not look to be in the window of 24 to 24.5
They look to be closer to 27, to me.
At the right tire height, using the 340 ride-height spec, the front of the rockers will be closer to IIRC, 7 inches at the pinch-weld.

Your front ride height, can be set anywhere you want it to be. However, the alignment has to be set after the ride-height is established. The cons of a mon-factory height are.;
1) that if the ride height gets to be too low, the lower bumpstops will pound out; and
2) your camber change may become exaggerated, which causes an exaggerated toe-change, with suspension travel, which leads to wandering in a straight-line. The only way to see exactly where you are is to have your alignment guy map it out. Once you have the map, you can generate a ride-height window, and set it anywhere in or close to, the center of the window. Thus you will have wander-free cruising, hopefully ...... depending how loosey-goosey the rest of the suspension and steering are.

The point is this,
To me, the rear ride height looks fine.
To me, the front looks wonky.
 
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