Rear Wheel Tub adjusting outer side of tub any sugestions?

-
Ozyduster

Ozyduster

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 16, 2023
Messages
205
Reaction score
269
Location
Australia
Ok so some people going to look at me weird and think why! I want to adjust the quarter side of my tub!! So i can bring the wheel further out to fill the guards.

So the issue with the A body is not the size of the tub but the design.
I will be running a 275 on a 8.5 inch rim with 3 inch back space with leaf half inch offsets. Diff shortened accordingly.
I dont want a jacked up look and also dont want to have my wheel set into the car. So traditional tub work will not fix this problem, stretching tub is not the answer if going towards centre of car.
If not adjusting outer tub the wheel has to be set in as the tub steps in after about an inch of travel. You can see what i refer to in the pic with my quarter removed.
From inside to outside of tub you have 300mm but as soon as you go up an inch lose half an inch
IMG_1244.JPG
If you do not fix this issue this is the look you will get. Doesnt look correct i want my wheel further out to fill the quarter. 2 of my mates have an Australian A body and one had a full floating folded diff built to discover it looks like *** and starting again. Funnily enough i rang him to talk about my issue and he told me earlier in the week diff builder rang him with same issue. As he only tubbed the inner.
Has anyone had a crack at playing about with the stock tub and how? Thinking can cut it and press the step out to make more space on the quarter side and re weld. I dont want to remove tubs and install a full tub i hope can just adjust and if anyone had any luck.
IMG_1561.JPG

IMG_2731.JPEG
 
Ozyduster said:
Ok so some people going to look at me weird and think why! I want to adjust the quarter side of my tub!! So i can bring the wheel further out to fill the guards.

So the issue with the A body is not the size of the tub but the design.
I will be running a 275 on a 8.5 inch rim with 3 inch back space with leaf half inch offsets. Diff shortened accordingly.
I dont want a jacked up look and also dont want to have my wheel set into the car. So traditional tub work will not fix this problem, stretching tub is not the answer if going towards centre of car.
If not adjusting outer tub the wheel has to be set in as the tub steps in after about an inch of travel. You can see what i refer to in the pic with my quarter removed.
From inside to outside of tub you have 300mm but as soon as you go up an inch lose half an inch
View attachment 1716191023
If you do not fix this issue this is the look you will get. Doesnt look correct i want my wheel further out to fill the quarter. 2 of my mates have an Australian A body and one had a full floating folded diff built to discover it looks like *** and starting again. Funnily enough i rang him to talk about my issue and he told me earlier in the week diff builder rang him with same issue. As he only tubbed the inner.
Has anyone had a crack at playing about with the stock tub and how? Thinking can cut it and press the step out to make more space on the quarter side and re weld. I dont want to remove tubs and install a full tub i hope can just adjust and if anyone had any luck.
View attachment 1716191029

View attachment 1716191027
Click to expand...
hammer carefully , 8 1/2'' wheels with 295 60 d15`s , 68 fastback , stretched front/ stock shape ... springs have settled /now the tire is up in the edge of the fender , no problems...
----

thumbnail.jpg
 
Last edited:
Another thought. Lay a 2x4 (white in pic) across wheel lip and upper section when hammering out if you go that route so you don't distort the wheel opening.

Tub.jpg
 
Kendog 170 said:
Another thought. Lay a 2x4 (white in pic) across wheel lip and upper section when hammering out if you go that route so you don't distort the wheel opening.

View attachment 1716191151
Click to expand...
Yep good idea will have a look at it this week and see what we can acheive as body work is nearly all completed, next will be chassis stiffening then running gear etc
 
Ozyduster said:
Did you use some heat as well and did you gain much just with hammering?
Click to expand...
just a hammer , for got 3/4'' offset spring hangars too ..
the worst place is in the upper front of the drivers side ,inside inner fender panel...
 
If you've got the quarter off it will be a lot easier!

I did this on my Duster with the approach of doing it as a "reverse mini-tub". I replaced the whole outer section of the wheel well. The "bump" in the outer wheelhouse is the first issue people encounter and you can just hammer that part out for more clearance. But even doing that, you still have the angle on the outer wheelhouse, and a big gap between the quarter and wheelhouse. Here's a picture of the outer wheelhouse and the quarter. You can get rid of some of the bump, but, you can't get it anywhere near the quarter with just a hammer...

img_9478-jpeg.jpg


From the inside. You can minimize that "bump", but you're not gonna gain all that much without moving a bunch of metal, which you won't be able to do with just a hammer. You can see the bump where my tires started to rub the undercoating after I added my rear disk brakes. The red line is the section I took out

img_9548-jpeg.jpg


You can see here the bottom of the C-pillar that welds to the wheelhouse, this is why you're not going to be able to get ride of the angle, it's built into the C-pillar.

img_9566-jpeg.jpg


I reshaped the whole bottom of the C-pillar, then built a new outer wheelhouse. I managed it with the quarters still on, it would be a ton easier with the quarter off. This is what the end result looked like, but you can see the entire operation where I opened everything up, reshaped the bottom flange on the C-pillar, pushed out the quarter sheet metal to gain some additional room, and then replaced the the offending section of the outer wheelhouse. Outer wall of the wheelhouse is now vertical, the 295/40/18's fit with plenty of room to spare, and the car has settled a bit lower since the last shot was taken. Could probably fit a 315 now with the 1/2" offset and wheelhouse and quarter lip work. The link below the pictures should take you to my build thread and the whole process, with a lot more pictures.

img_9852-jpeg.jpg


img_9898-jpeg.jpg


My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
 
I put tubs in but did have to fabricate the outer most part of the wheelhouse. I also stretched the quarter of the rocker side for better tire clearance. Normally I wouldn't do that but the end of the rocker was rotted anyway. I actually tin knocked the new quarters without messing it up.

39.jpg


48.jpg


50.jpg


145.jpg


146.jpg


147.jpg


148.1.jpg
 
Kendog 170 said:
I put tubs in but did have to fabricate the outer most part of the wheelhouse. I also stretched the quarter of the rocker side for better tire clearance. Normally I wouldn't do that but the end of the rocker was rotted anyway. I actually tin knocked the new quarters without messing it up.

View attachment 1716192963

View attachment 1716192964

View attachment 1716192965

View attachment 1716192966

View attachment 1716192967

View attachment 1716192968

View attachment 1716192969
Click to expand...

a lot of work for sure , I did mine w/o removing the fenders /no rot in them...
wish I had mini tubbed it back when I was doing it tho , altho I`ve been advised , for resale value not to tub them ....maybe cause 68 barracudas are a little more rare than dusters ????
 
famous bob said:
a lot of work for sure , I did mine w/o removing the fenders /no rot in them...
wish I had mini tubbed it back when I was doing it tho , altho I`ve been advised , for resale value not to tub them ....maybe cause 68 barracudas are a little more rare than dusters ????
Click to expand...

Unless it’s a full concourse level, numbers matching restoration it won’t matter for resale as long as it’s done cleanly.
 
Both of mine are just street cars. My Ragtop has over 200k ,top end build at 100k complete refresh at 200.on it. 100k driven by me. Both have lived outside in New England their whole lives. No concourse here.
 
famous bob said:
you say , well known mopar drag racer says diff.
Click to expand...

Buddy an original /6 Duster that was restored and turned into a 340 clone just sold for $62k at auction. If you do a quality mini-tub job on a car it's not gonna hurt the value unless it's a 1 of not very many and a full concourse restoration. On anything other than that it might actually help resale, especially if it goes with the build of the car- ie, a mini-tub on a pro-touring car isn't going to hurt resale one bit.
 
famous bob said:
you say , well known mopar drag racer says diff.
Click to expand...
May hurt the resale if someone wants concourse, however tastefully modified vehicle potentially worth more than concourse. As lets be honest why would you want a concourse duster.
 
Ozyduster said:
May hurt the resale if someone wants concourse, however tastefully modified vehicle potentially worth more than concourse. As lets be honest why would you want a concourse duster.
Click to expand...
I dont , where`d the duster come from ??
 
Ozyduster said:
May hurt the resale if someone wants concourse, however tastefully modified vehicle potentially worth more than concourse. As lets be honest why would you want a concourse duster.
Click to expand...
where`d you get the duster part , 68 barrcuda fastback....
 
famous bob said:
you say , well known mopar drag racer says diff.
Click to expand...
This
IMG_8056.jpeg

not this
IMG_8058.jpeg


If it looks good, interior panels and set fit, and isn’t some kind of high value vehicle a mini tub isn’t a bad thing at all. Maybe the drag racer was thinking about a full tub job. Drag racers don’t usually restrict themselves to mini tubs and go whole hog.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top