Reconditioned Head, Looking for Smooth Re-start

[Dodge72]

So currently my slant head is in the machine shop for new exhaust valves, recoditioned intake valves, new springs, new seals, and I milled it .030" as it was warped and to compensate the new, thicker Fel-Pro gasket I got. Previously the head I don't believe was ever taken off the head or even worked on: stock steel shim gasket and I believe stock green springs.

I've never taken a head off of an engine or replaced a head gasket. Currently the block has been sitting without the head for two weeks, I have it nice and covered to prevent any flash rust or debris getting into the cylinders. When I go put it back together, are there any precautions I should do before firing the engine up? Maybe a little oil on the cylinder walls, oiling the fresh head at all? And what about 'retorquing'? The new Fel-Pro gasket says no retorque, but I've read around that some people do it anyways. And as for redoing the valve lash....is it needed that I lash them cold first to get in the ballpark, then once the engine warms up redo it? Or are they possibly already 'set' from last time? I know, lots of questions, but when I get 'er all back together I want the whole thing to run as smooth as possible.

 

[TrailBeast]

The new gasket and milling will for sure require resetting the lash, and getting close cold the redoing it warm is a good idea.
Oil on the walls is a good idea, and leaving the plugs out until it makes oil pressure is also a good idea.
I'm sure you will have more opinions on this than you did as to whey the OE gasket went, but this is how I have been doing them for 40 years.
(Don't forget a little antiseize for the plug threads.)

 

[pishta]

milled head .030 (eg) will put the lifters .030 closer to the rockers so youll have to relieve the adjusters that much. Id just wipe the cylinders down with a oiled rag, and wipe the head with a dry lint free rag before installing. torque head in 3 stages inside to outside alternating like the book says and then get the lash .010/.020 before starting the motor. When it heats up, you can relash the valves (running or not, up to your ability) to .010/.020 or whatever the year says. No retorquing is necessary with a Fel-pro. You want clean bolts with a little oil on them when you torque them. Id turn it over with plugs as itll light off pretty fast with gas in the carb. My old slant would kick over immediantly with gas in the carb and the choke set. You wont have to break anything in.

 

[TrailBeast]

milled head .030 (eg) will put the lifters .030 closer to the rockers so youll have to relieve the adjusters that much. Id just wipe the cylinders down with a oiled rag, and wipe the head with a dry lint free rag before installing. torque head in 3 stages inside to outside alternating like the book says and then get the lash .010/.020 before starting the motor. When it heats up, you can relash the valves (running or not, up to your ability) to .010/.020 or whatever the year says. No retorquing is necessary with a Fel-pro. You want clean bolts with a little oil on them when you torque them. Id turn it over with plugs as itll light off pretty fast with gas in the carb. My old slant would kick over immediantly with gas in the carb and the choke set. You wont have to break anything in.

The only reason I like to turn it till the oil pressure comes up is to have a good supply of fresh oil to things as soon as it fires off.
I'm sure it doesn't make a ton of difference, but it sure couldn't hurt and the plugs are out already anyway.

 

[nm9stheham]

Just pour about a 1/2 to 1 cup of fresh oil slowly over the rockers, rocker shaft, pushrods, valve tips, etc., prior to start-up. Liberally oil the rockers and shaft when assembling.

Make sure you put the long rocker shaft bolt in the rear-most position, and the flat on one end of rocker shaft pointing up and to the front.

You can re-torque the head gasket at your option; I always do. Sometimes a stray slightly loose bolt is found. Make sure you find and follow the proper sequence of head bolt tightening; I like to tighten them to around 20-25 ft lbs in sequence and then to the final 65 ft lb torque on the 2nd sequence.

GO to www.slantsix.org and find the article on intake/exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets. Study that and follow it closely, using the right parts; that is your most likely source of long term issues.

Use a rubber valve cover gaskets and pull the cover off a couple of times in the 1st few hundred miles to recheck your work.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!

 

[TrailBeast]

Just pour about a 1/2 to 1 cup of fresh oil slowly over the rockers, rocker shaft, pushrods, valve tips, etc., prior to start-up.!

Like this?

 

[Dodge72]

Thanks for all the advice, I think pretty much all the bases got covered. I might end up cranking without the plugs for a second just to get the oil pressure up and to get gas back into the bowl of the carb. After that it should be quick to start like normal. I've already got diagrams for the head bolt sequence and the manifold information too (helps that I've changed the manifolds before). Got the nice Remflex gasket and some new studs too so it should be a piece of cake! As for the rocker shaft I made sure I didn't pull out any of the bolts when removing so they're still in their original location on the shaft. I'll make sure everything is nice and oiled. Can't wait to get my clean head back on Wednesday and start up the old girl again!

 

[Elvis'dart]

One of the thing I did and highly recommend, if you have the head off hang it from an engine hoist and install the manifolds off the car. Makes life much easier and you are sure they are torqued correctly. Just lower the whole thing on with the hoist.

Remflex gaskets are wonderful