Remanufactured engine recommendations. Slant 6

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Unblowupable

Unblowupable

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Hello, I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a remanufactured slant 6. The one in my 63 330 is about as used as it can be. Would prefer to go to the second gen slant if I could (67-74?). I’m not looking for a hot rod motor. This is my daily driver and I just want a direct replacement that will give me years of reliable 50 mile round trip days. I have done some minimal research and know most of the places and prices. Just wondering if anyone recommends any of the remanufactures or is there any I should stay away from. Thanks for any help.
 
I would look for a local rebuilder.If you can't find a local rebuilder.You can see if a auto shop in your area deals with Jasper Engines.
I have heard both good and bad about Jasper. There are others on the internet but I can't say.
Several local shops deal with Jasper without a problem.
 
Unblowupable said:
Hello, I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a remanufactured slant 6. The one in my 63 330 is about as used as it can be. Would prefer to go to the second gen slant if I could (67-74?). I’m not looking for a hot rod motor. This is my daily driver and I just want a direct replacement that will give me years of reliable 50 mile round trip days. I have done some minimal research and know most of the places and prices. Just wondering if anyone recommends any of the remanufactures or is there any I should stay away from. Thanks for any help.
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67-74 includes two generations of slants. Now, 68-74 does not. The crankshaft register on the 67 and prior engines is smaller than the 68 and forward ones. So that's something to watch out for.
 
going 68+ will give you the most options going with a jobber rebuilder but with the caveat of having to address the compatibility of the crank register/torque converter. not the hugest of ordeals.

the benefit of having a local rebuilder or shop do the work is that you won't have to address any of that and you get to keep the OG block-- if that's of concern to you. however, because it's your daily driver, that could have ramifications timeline wise that are less than ideal for you.

i've worked at shops who used jasper and i've personally bought from them and not had a problem with their product. but that was all V8 stuff
 
If a 1968+ engine, you will need a spacer ring to slide over the torque converter snout to match. I bought one years ago from member CharlieS (or such, Silver Springs, FL). Could also change to a later transmission, but those aren't cable-shift and use a sliding yoke driveshaft. Could also have a special torque converter made. Could also install a later input shaft in your transmission to use a later torque converter. I don't know about manual transmissions, but have read that not all crankshafts match the pilot bearing, if for an automatic.

Are there any major differences in the later engine blocks? They have 5 core plugs instead of 3 and 1974+ a thicker left web, but otherwise I didn't think many differences. Aren't the internal rebuild parts identical?
 
junkyardhero said:
going 68+ will give you the most options going with a jobber rebuilder but with the caveat of having to address the compatibility of the crank register/torque converter. not the hugest of ordeals.

the benefit of having a local rebuilder or shop do the work is that you won't have to address any of that and you get to keep the OG block-- if that's of concern to you. however, because it's your daily driver, that could have ramifications timeline wise that are less than ideal for you.

i've worked at shops who used jasper and i've personally bought from them and not had a problem with their product. but that was all V8 stuff
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could always pick up a similar vintage rebuildable core and rebuild it and then do the swap once it's complete to minimize downtime. some other considerations, '75-newer heads use smaller 5/8" spark plugs and don't have tubes with O rings that could leak. 81-up have hydraulic cams, and cast cranks with narrower main journals, so they are lighter.
 
michiganpat said:
'75-newer heads use smaller 5/8" spark plugs and don't have tubes with O rings that could leak.
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…and they weigh more, and there's a much narrower spark plug selection for them, not including the kind that makes a Slant-6 run slightly but noticeably better. '74-down heads for me all day, thanks, and twice on Sunday. Change the spark plug tube seals (O-rings) every few years and they won't leak. All six of them cost less than $5, last time I looked, so…yeah.
 
I do like the skinnier looking profile of the drool tube head but I'm getting lazier as I get older, I like the idea of 6 less potential oil leaks/
And I'm not trying to cut every ounce for that last 0.0001 second of E.T. with lighter weight.

The stock valve sizes are the same between them, and the original combustion chamber design wasn't much of any different between the 2 styles of /6 head, I had both styles here to pick from, so I went with the peanut plug style. I gave away the one drool tube head I had.
 
29 years ago I bought a long block off Jasper Engines and had the head rebuilt locally. The engine was great for a number of years and was running great when I sold the car.

Delivery was fun. I ordered and paid extra to have it delivered with a lift gate. Well...it showed up on an 18 wheeler without a lift gate. I rolled my engine hoist down the driveway and hooked up to the engine. The hoist wouldn't raise up far enough to take the slack out if the chain. We slowly pull the pallet out until it dropped off the truck. Just s little swinging but all was well. Fun times!
 
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