Removing SB intermediate shaft??

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Capt. Zorro

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I've got an intermediate shaft on an old 273 that is stuck. I've soaked it in Marvel Mystery oil, made a puller to catch under the gear and got it almost all the way to the top. I suspect there is crap on the shaft that is getting bigger as I slide it further up. Can't get the puller on the gear now that it is almost at the top. I was thinking of welding a stud on the gear and pulling on it with a slap hammer. Anyone have this problem before and have a solution?
TIA
 
Man, there must be some serious sludge in this engine. I take it the engine is still in the car? Have you tried pulling it up with the tool you made while twisting it with a screwdriver in the distributor slot?
 
Ramcharger, you are correct. It is still in the car and has a bunch of baked on crap in it. That's what I've been doing, soaking, twisting and pulling. I'm at the point now that I can't get anything under the gear due to it's OD and the ID of the dist. hole. Wanted to make sure I wasn't screwing anything up by removing the gear. I just reached down with a set of needle nose and lifted the BB gear and shaft out without any problems. Of course it only had about 35,000 miles on it. This SB looks like it has 135,00 on it.
I was hoping to get it going so I wouldn't have to push it in and out of the garage to do body work. My old lungs won't take much dust and it gets all over everything in the shop.
 
There is a distributor shaft bushing that can get damaged. Why do you need to pull the shaft to get it running?
 
Was going to try to pre-lube it before starting, but it's beginning to look like I'm beating a dead horse. Someone spent a little money on it, has a new edelbrock intake and set of headers. When I pulled the new chrome valve covers I saw the baked on crud under the new orange paint. It was supposed to have been rebuilt, looks like a rattle can rebuild...
 
At this point I don't think prelubing really matters since it's not a fresh rebuild with a new cam. Fire it up and see what happens.
 
Capt. Zorro said:
Ramcharger, you are correct. It is still in the car and has a bunch of baked on crap in it. That's what I've been doing, soaking, twisting and pulling. I'm at the point now that I can't get anything under the gear due to it's OD and the ID of the dist. hole.
Click to expand...

Use snap ring pliers in the slot. Works great!
 
If you get it running, don't use anything like seafoam, etc, to dissolve the crud. It will all go down in the pan and clog the pick-up screen.
I've been through that twice.
 
I have used carb cleaner to gunk lifters so they can removed . it is a strong solvent and will devarnish most engine gun!

Although I agree you should just put it back together and see how it runs, or give up altogether and remove engine and overhaul it yourself (if you keep for any length of time you will probably have to do this eventually).

Bob
 
I'm surprised the bronze bushing hasn't pulled out of the block. If it was me, I would just use whatever force necessary, then if the bronze bushing is damaged, buy a new one.

Sounds like you should just fire it up without a pre-lube, though.
 
Yeah, I don't think it can hurt it anymore than it already is. The old starter is Toast, spent all afternoon unbolting the headers and snaking it out from between the tubes. It's all coming back to me now,unbolt headers, remove bolts from starter, turn the steering all the way to the right, point starter up and it falls out in your face.....
Does the back bolt on the headers go into a water passage? Is it supposed to be a stud? When I pulled it some water came out the bolt hole. I know on a Ford small block the rocker bolts go into the water passage. Been about 40 yrs. since I've fooled with a small block Mopar and my CRS has kicked in.
 
Got the new starter on it and cranked it over, has compression on all cylinders. Taking a break for supper, going back down and see if the fuel pump will work. If it does might try to get it started tonite.
 
push it back down in there and pull it back up and repeat till it cooperates,you can spray it with marvel each time will help
 
Yes, front header bolt and rear header bolt are wet. The rest are dry. I hope the threads are good. If so, you can use some sealer and you're good to go. The factory used studs in those holes.
 
Get two large flat blade screw drivers and put a little valve lapping compound on the tips. Stick both baldes into the slot on the top of the shaft, if you don't have at least 2-3" of space at the handles the blades aren't bif enough. Squeeze the screw driver handles together and it will wedge very tightly into the slot and the valve lapping compound prevents slippage.

I have had great success getting the shaft out this way.
 
Changed oil and filter and cranked it over quite a bit, no oil to the rockers. Think I'm going to go ahead and pull the motor, the pickup is probably clogged with sludge. It was going to have to come out eventually for the big block.
 
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