Removing Steering Shaft Bearing

-
SteveM

SteveM

Active Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2014
Messages
33
Reaction score
2
Location
California
What is the easiest way to remove the lower steering shaft bearing? The plastic bearing at the end of the steering column just before it leaves the steering column and firewall and goes into the steering coupler. Does it come out toward the coupler or back through the firewall? The reason I am asking is that the shaft pin on the end of the shaft is a bear to remove and it does not appear that anything will go past the pin.

Ideas?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1557.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 531
I've never done this. Short of pulling the column having it pressed out maybe there's some sort of press is available at your local rental or parts store.

A home made idea maybe using a short length of black pipe with a hole for a bolt and a second hole for the pin. Hold the nut with a boxed end wrench. Just a thought............
 

Attachments

  • HomeMadePress.gif
    10.7 KB · Views: 431
The only way I know to remove the plastic bearing with the column in the car is to remove the pin. If you take the column out and remove the steering wheel you can remove the shaft and then remove the bearing.
 
Daves69 said:
I've never done this. Short of pulling the column having it pressed out maybe there's some sort of press is available at your local rental or parts store.

A home made idea maybe using a short length of black pipe with a hole for a bolt and a second hole for the pin. Hold the nut with a boxed end wrench. Just a thought............
Click to expand...

I like the way you think!
 
Thanks Daves69 I will give that a try. I tried a puller but started scoring the shaft. Question: does it matter what side the pin comes out?
 
The pin is a devil to get out. I tried a hammer, and a air hammer and I didn't have any kind of puller to press it out. I ended up pulling the column and pulling the shaft out of the tube. That process was pretty easy. I replaced the bushing and rebuilt the joint and put it back together. Make sure you mark the way the parts come apart. The joint keys onto the steering gear one way but if you assemble the joint backwards your steering wheel will be upside down. Don't ask how I know. lol tmm
 
A bearing goes there!?!?

No wonder it didn't seem right
 
Knocking that lower pin out isn't as difficult as getting it centered when knocking it back in. Best way to get it centered is by pressing it in.
The best way rebuild a column is the way the factory built it. Entire column on the workbench, entire shaft comes out the bottom. You might find upper bearing is crusty too.
 
RedFish said:
Knocking that lower pin out isn't as difficult as getting it centered when knocking it back in. Best way to get it centered is by pressing it in.
The best way rebuild a column is the way the factory built it. Entire column on the workbench, entire shaft comes out the bottom. You might find upper bearing is crusty too.
Click to expand...

This ^^^

I fought with that cross pin wit the column out of the car I used heat and a vice.
IMHO, removing the column is the most direct approach.
Once you have it out you can inspect, clean and replace whichever pieces need attention.
You'll also be able to pull the shaft from the bottom with no need to remove the pin.
 
Thanks for the ideas. So I have this straight...the column needs to come out the bottom, but with the column out do I still need to press out the pin in order to replace that bearing? I've never seen a column out so I don't have a reference. I really only wish to replace the lower bearing.

Anyone have a link to removing the steering column?
 
If you remove the column and steering wheel, the shaft will come out the bottom so you won't have to fool with the pin.
 
A box coupling rebuild kit includes a new cross pin and if the original pin is worn it should be replaced. I'm sure some do it yourselfers have serviced the lower end of that steering shaft without concern for the upper end. there are serious pitfalls to that though. The upper end of the column has only a tiny ball bearing supporting the column bells, steering wheel, etc., etc.. Odds that you will damage some other small part up there are not in your favor. There's a turn signal switch and cancel cam, a special isolated contact ring for the horn circuit, and more.
I don't take those quick haphazard routes. I'll pull the steering wheel, electrical components, etc.. while sitting in the drivers seat. Then I'll remove 3 bolts at column to firewall filler plate, 2 nuts and 1 bolt from upper column mount and pull the entire column from the car. At the work bench I'll remove the snap ring at upper bearing, file away any burs or rust from the steering shaft and side the shaft out of the column. Then I can be rough with servicing the pin and box coupling without wondering or worrying what is happening from that tiny bearing up.
If the column has a shifter and/or is 1970 or later model, there are a heck of a lot more small parts to deal with, ignition switch, wheel lock, and more.
If it's pre 70 and floor shift, it's nowhere near as complicated to do it right.
 
RedFish said:
A box coupling rebuild kit includes a new cross pin and if the original pin is worn it should be replaced. I'm sure some do it yourselfers have serviced the lower end of that steering shaft without concern for the upper end. there are serious pitfalls to that though. The upper end of the column has only a tiny ball bearing supporting the column bells, steering wheel, etc., etc.. Odds that you will damage some other small part up there are not in your favor. There's a turn signal switch and cancel cam, a special isolated contact ring for the horn circuit, and more.
I don't take those quick haphazard routes. I'll pull the steering wheel, electrical components, etc.. while sitting in the drivers seat. Then I'll remove 3 bolts at column to firewall filler plate, 2 nuts and 1 bolt from upper column mount and pull the entire column from the car. At the work bench I'll remove the snap ring at upper bearing, file away any burs or rust from the steering shaft and side the shaft out of the column. Then I can be rough with servicing the pin and box coupling without wondering or worrying what is happening from that tiny bearing up.
If the column has a shifter and/or is 1970 or later model, there are a heck of a lot more small parts to deal with, ignition switch, wheel lock, and more.
If it's pre 70 and floor shift, it's nowhere near as complicated to do it right.
Click to expand...

This ^^^^^^^ I have done an A body, an E body and a B body this way. It's a pretty straight forward job.
 
I'm going through the same task, replacing the lower bearing. I've been putting it off, seems like a chore. mine is a automatic with a column shift. the cables on the column seems like a B to remove, with limited room and the boot in the way. I've removed the transmition pan and will disconnect the cables , and pull the whole column out in one piece, cables and all. then will use a press to push the pin out, put a new bearing in and push the pin back in. I don't want to remove the steering shaft through the tube , seems like more stuff to screw up .
 
Thanks, iv been checking the different threads removing column, transmition cables etc. Seems like have to disassemble a few things just to replace that darn bearing..
 

Attachments

  • XX-1D61AA93-1884461-960-100.jpg
    7.8 KB · Views: 249
  • 11-1D294C8F-1597144-960-100.jpg
    12.7 KB · Views: 236
bighammer, thanks! I just sent back an $80 bearing, to give this $4 option a try.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top