Replacement Wheel Stud - Front Problem

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chewy

Some old guy...
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Well, I started the conversion from left to right handed studs last weekend. I converted the ones on the rear with no problem. It took about 15 minutes.

On the front, however, was a different story. Tried Whacking them Firmly with the big Ball-Peen, then a couple times with the little 4'lb sledge. Only got one to budge about 1/4 inch.

Took them to a shop around the corner who has a press to push out the old ones and install the new ones. He got the old ones out fine, but the new studs, which he said seemed to be the same size, dont stay in. (Like they are slightly too small.

I bought 7/16-20 with .555 Knurl with 17/32" Shoulder length. This is what was listed for my 10" Drum's. I looked at the 9" Steel drum, Knurl is too short, ad the 9" Cast drum studs, Shoulder is same size, Knurl is slightly thicker, but studs themselves are about 3/8" shorter.

Is there something I'm missing?
 
I had the EXACT SAME problem with mine and had to tack them in. What a pain in a$$ it was for something that should have taken all of 5 minutes to complete
 
I had the EXACT SAME problem with mine and had to tack them in. What a pain in a$$ it was for something that should have taken all of 5 minutes to complete

I've seen them tacked before, and never understood why. Still dont understand fully.

When you tacked them in, you tacked them to the Drum, The bearing hub, or both?
 
Just to the bearing hub because I was converting to an aftermarket disc brake setup
 
that's because your front hubs are swedged (SP) to the drum-- a special tool is needed to remove this before replacing/driving out the stud-- that is why the same size wheel stud will not work when the old one is driven out--- the swedge was not removed so a larger diameter was forced out the knurled area. Lawrence
 
After i did additional research, proper way is to cut the swedge knurls on one side, cut off the backs of the studs and press them out the front.

I cant blame the guy at the shop too much, he did what I asked him to. If I had a press in my shop, I would have done it myself. Looks like I get to buy a new drum, as I dont want to weld on the hub...
 
I would look around and see if you can find some different studs. An "old school" store with the big Dorman bins comes to mind. The drum does not need to be tight on the studs, it should center on the hub and the wheen should hold it in place
 
X2... and as 67Dart273 mentioned, find an oversize stud as a replacement even if you have to drill out the hub a bit to accept it. I would restake the assembly so it's all one one piece if it's going to stay a drum setup but do whatever your kit says on a disc changeover.
 
that's because your front hubs are swedged (SP) to the drum-- a special tool is needed to remove this before replacing/driving out the stud-- that is why the same size wheel stud will not work when the old one is driven out--- the swedge was not removed so a larger diameter was forced out the knurled area. Lawrence

Your right on about the tool. I used to have both, 7/16 & 1/2. I think I still have one of them. One of them got loaned & never returned. They just chuck up in a drill, position it over the stud & cut away the swedge. Slicker than snott. Not too many people remeber this cutting tool.
I found out the hard way, by ruining a drum & hub.
 
I had this problem as well.. first off, do not weld the studs in.. I tried this.. twice.. each time, the weld did not hold.. (my friend is an excellent welder.. something to do with the stud and the drum) ..luckily I was still able to to get the lug nut off.. (otherwise I would've been butchering a center) ... My buddy at Advance took one of the original studs I knocked out.. did some measuring, and found suitable studs.. worked great.. no problems.. I suggest you do this, or give me a day or two, and I will find out from him what exact stud he wound up getting me...
 
Here's one, They're not cheap.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Brake-Drum-Swedge-Cutting-16in/dp/B0009RDIVM"]Amazon.com: Brake Drum Swedge Cutting Tool for 7/16in. Stud: Automotive: Reviews, Prices & more@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/11WTN9CJ1JL.@@AMEPARAM@@11WTN9CJ1JL[/ame]
 
I found a Brake/Machine Shop in Vegas that does this. I asked around a few places that do brakes to find out where they send their stuff out to be done. I bet there's at least one or 2 shops in each metro area that do this type of work.
 
.. I suggest you do this, or give me a day or two, and I will find out from him what exact stud he wound up getting me...

SpeedRacerX, that would be great if you could get the size. It's mainly the Knurl Diameter, but if you get a dorman part number, It would be even easier to find. I want to make sure I pick up the right ones.
 
SpeedRacerX, that would be great if you could get the size. It's mainly the Knurl Diameter, but if you get a dorman part number, It would be even easier to find. I want to make sure I pick up the right ones.

Ok... talked to my friend at Advance.. since its been almost a year and a half since we did this, he no longer remembers exactly what stud he managed to get for me.. He is gonna do some checking tomorrow through the history and that to see if he can track it down again.. in the meantime, he said if you can take a mic measurment of the knurl that would greatly help... I will keep ya posted
 
Ok... talked to my friend at Advance.. since its been almost a year and a half since we did this, he no longer remembers exactly what stud he managed to get for me.. He is gonna do some checking tomorrow through the history and that to see if he can track it down again.. in the meantime, he said if you can take a mic measurment of the knurl that would greatly help... I will keep ya posted

Original Knurl is .555 that is what I bought. They slide into the holes not much side-to-side play, they just dont fit tight enough to hold.
 
Original Knurl is .555 that is what I bought. They slide into the holes not much side-to-side play, they just dont fit tight enough to hold.

.555 is that the knurl of what you bought? or what you knocked out of the drum/hub? I need the mic measurement of the knurl on the stud you knocked out...
 
Ok... talked to my friend at Advance.. since its been almost a year and a half since we did this, he no longer remembers exactly what stud he managed to get for me.. He is gonna do some checking tomorrow through the history and that to see if he can track it down again.. in the meantime, he said if you can take a mic measurment of the knurl that would greatly help... I will keep ya posted

.555 is that the knurl of what you bought? or what you knocked out of the drum/hub? I need the mic measurement of the knurl on the stud you knocked out...

.555 for the OEM Size replacement.

For the ones that came out, I wont be able to get you a measurement until tomorrow night when I get my hands back on them. I'm currently in Colorado on Business and wont be back to my garage until about 10:00pm tomorrow night.
 
cool.. get me the measurement of one of the ones that came out when your able.. the OEM replacement size wont help.. (at least it didnt help me... it wasnt until we measured one of the ones I knocked out was he able to help me) ...
 
Napa has boxes of different studs, you just have to find the guy behind the counter that has a clue.
 
Sizes are as Follows: I matched stud with hub by Size

Stud Size: outer knurl / Inner knurl
1. Stud: 0.5720 / 0.5515 Hub: 0.5640
2. Stud: 0.5695 / 0.5525 Hub: 0.5595
3. Stud: 0.5675 / 0.5510 Hub: 0.5570
4. Stud: 0.5650 / 0.5510 Hub: 0.5535
Standard Size 0.5550 Knurl Stud Fits and would have to be pressed in.
5. Stud: 0.5555 / 0.5525 Hub: 0.5525
Standard Size 0.5550 Knurl Stud Fits and would have to be pressed in.

Shoulder Length is 17/32".

Dorman Sizes In Catalog (Last Page 7/16-20)-
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/137-142_Sec10_Part2.pdf
Dorman Sizes In Catalog (First Page 7/16-20)-
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/hardware2006/143-148_Sec10_Part3.pdf

Original Stud#: 610-096

Stud 610-083 Seems to be the one I want for the 3 enlarged holes. Wonder if I can get it in extended length. Its 1/4 inch shorter, but closest match.

Going down to Nevada Brake first thing in morning before work.
 
Napa has boxes of different studs, you just have to find the guy behind the counter that has a clue.

Good luck on that, get the oldest guy in there. maybe hell know. Swedge cutter is the key, but grinding the head off and tapping them out the front is a viable option that does not damage the original hole size as the swedge is on the outboard edge.
 
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