Replacing welded splices on dash harness

[4spdragtop]

Trying to get motivated and complete rally dash harness for our 67 cuda. I believe there are 3 welded splices. Some are in really good shape, but contemplating redoing them. Should I leave well enough alone or should I solder and heat shrink or wrap them?
Thanks
Steve

 

[67Dart273]

If they are tight, show no corrosion I would leave it be.

 

[AJ/FormS]

the splices are probably the least likely to cause problems.

 

[4spdragtop]

Thanks guys, the only reason I was contemplating is some of the orange wires getting stiff near the terminal ends.
I was concerned with increased resistance due to brittle wires.
I have quite a few harness' to pick/choose from. Unfortunately some arent just a simple swap.
Pics of orange wire/splice and a few more splices. "Oddball" ends on some wires make it a challenge.
Thanks.

If they are tight, show no corrosion I would leave it be.

the splices are probably the least likely to cause problems.

 

[67Dart273]

the splices are probably the least likely to cause problems.

I found my first bad splice at the same time I found out there WERE splices--in about 72-73, on a friend's 68 383 RR. The ammeter had been bouncing around, and at some point--in his apartment parking lot--we had the dash apart and the harness pulled out. He was beginning to think I was NUTS. "I" was beginning to think I was nuts!!! and then I found it!!. Stripped it back soldered it all together

In my lifetime, I've become aware or found maybe 10 or a dozen bad splices. They are surely very rare to give problems. I would guess that the ones went bad were never "that good" to start with

 

[carguy47]

IMHO, if you have the harness out and have some room in the wire to do so, cut out the brittle wire and redo the ends. I just pulled the harness out of my 69 and boy am I glad I did. Found way too many issues, brittle wires and melted casings

 

[DionR]

If one did need to be fixed, what's the best method?

Pretty sure the splice on my harness where the blue ignition wire splits and goes up to the gauges or out to the ballast resistor is bad. I can't get power to the oil pressure idiot light and at one point the car wouldn't start and had no power under the hood. Going to dig into it when I pull the dash for my Rallye gauge swap.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I agree. Unless the tape is fallin off or they are corroded, I wouldn't mess with um.

 

[matthon]

I put in a Painless 7 circuit fuse box, it's not listed as a fuse box iirc.
Installed in the same place as the original, gave me more fuses, and I eliminated the ammeter baloney.
I used factory style connectors, feed everything from the new box, and eliminated the ammeter splice, left it in the harness as it was new, just terminated the ends.