I just purchased a 72 Dart with factory ac. Most of the under hood pieces are missing and the system has been sitting open for years. The blower motor isn't working and no clue if the controls or anything else works. I have been looking into using new components under the hood, but inside is it worth cleaning out and restoring the old evaporator and box or do I need to just get a new aftermarket under dash setup and lose the factory stuff?
Restore factory ac or go aftermarket
- Thread starter lunacy
- Start date
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I vote for a modern system.
LJ67barracuda340
Well-Known Member
modern system also,, but be prepared. I put vintage air in my 67 cuda. the evap/heater box is much easier to install with the dash out. I had to weld some brackets in to mount it to. I really dont know how you would run the hoses as per factory, I ran mine thru the wheel well to keep them out of sight but I dont see any decent route. I also dont have the ugly firewall fan motor any more as the new one is all internal inside the car. Do Your Homework first. They dont have an A Body specific unit. Cars not finished yet (8 winters so far) so I cant tell you how great it works.
Most aftermarket a/c system kits are designed for those vehicles that didn't get factory a/c. The kit may not install so easy in your car. Having said that... Your pre 73 factory push button climate controller was/is prone to failures. I don't know of 1 application where a mechanical type writer like switch block wasn't a trouble maker.
But hell, everything breaks eventually. At least we do have aftermarket support that lets us renew and maintain what we might be stuck with.
But hell, everything breaks eventually. At least we do have aftermarket support that lets us renew and maintain what we might be stuck with.
I'm not afraid of having to fabricate and fill some holes. Honestly, my main concern with an all new interior setup is being able to afford it. I don't know what it takes to clean out the original system and get it working either, I might have almost as much money into that.
LJ67, do you have any pictures of your install? Also, what kit did you purchase for your car? and what under hood stuff?
LJ67, do you have any pictures of your install? Also, what kit did you purchase for your car? and what under hood stuff?
dodge71demon
Well-Known Member
I went with classic auto compressor upgrade kit but mine was in working condition to begin with
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I went with a new system, I think thru Classic Air. The new system uses about 1/5 the hp.
I have the original compressor, clutch and some brackets.
The compressor has a leak at the shaft. I am told there is a kit available to repair that. If you want it: here are my prices, Compressor and brackets, pay shipping only. Clutch $35,
I really am not looking $$ as I am not in the business, they are just laying around her. The only reason I put a price on the clutch is I turned down a $50 offer, but I did not like the guy so I turned him down
I have the original compressor, clutch and some brackets.
The compressor has a leak at the shaft. I am told there is a kit available to repair that. If you want it: here are my prices, Compressor and brackets, pay shipping only. Clutch $35,
I really am not looking $$ as I am not in the business, they are just laying around her. The only reason I put a price on the clutch is I turned down a $50 offer, but I did not like the guy so I turned him down
The only reason I would EVER stick with a factory system would be in the case of my 75 F250. It literally has every single piece of the system there and still has R-12 in the system. It has some electrical issues from the blower motor locking up years ago that I need to fix and then it will probably cool AS IS. Everything in the HVAC box works. Even the defrost. The blower motor just does not run.
If you are missing items as you say, then it would be crazy not to upgrade. Those little Sanden compressors are very nice, compact and light and they cool great. I think it's a no brainer. You sound like me though and don't have a pile to throw at it all at once. If you have a local AC shop, try going by there and feeling them out. The one we have here will work with you on stuff real good. I have had friends who bought one or two pieces at a time from them almost as cheap as an online kit and they have the local, professional advice to help if they need it.
If you are missing items as you say, then it would be crazy not to upgrade. Those little Sanden compressors are very nice, compact and light and they cool great. I think it's a no brainer. You sound like me though and don't have a pile to throw at it all at once. If you have a local AC shop, try going by there and feeling them out. The one we have here will work with you on stuff real good. I have had friends who bought one or two pieces at a time from them almost as cheap as an online kit and they have the local, professional advice to help if they need it.
I too plan on going with Classic Auto Air for the 68 Valiant. It had dealer installed Chrysler air that still worked .As I was removing the heater box it fell apart.Same thought as others said,, might as well go with all new than patching up the old.
Pete in NH
Well-Known Member
Hi,
My 69 Barracuda is getting the original factory system. I have all the pieces and like the look of keeping things original.
In your case where most of the under hood components are missing, you do have some options. I would vote for keeping the original evaporator case, you know it fits and there would be no fooling around getting something else to fit in there. Also, I say this because the original factory systems were much higher quality than any after market stuff today. The factory systems added $400 to the cost of the car, over 10% of the new car cost of an A body. For this money back then Chrysler gave you a really high quality system, copper and brass evaporators and perhaps one of the best automotive A/C compressors ever built.
None of the after market stuff today comes close to the quality level of the original components. The original system in my 71 Charger works just fine.
I would have no concerns about rebuilding the original evaporator box with a DMT seal kit and reusing the evaporator core as long as it is not physically damaged. Under the hood you could look into a firewall forward kit with a newer compressor and parallel flow condenser.
With a little careful shopping and scrounging you could save yourself some dollars over a kit if you plan out the under hood system yourself, using either newer or original components.
I see someone offered you an original RV compressor and brackets. I would not overlook that offer as shaft seals and gaskets are readily available and that compressor is quite easy to service.
Feel free to PM me if you have questions. I've been working on these original systems for over 40 years.
My 69 Barracuda is getting the original factory system. I have all the pieces and like the look of keeping things original.
In your case where most of the under hood components are missing, you do have some options. I would vote for keeping the original evaporator case, you know it fits and there would be no fooling around getting something else to fit in there. Also, I say this because the original factory systems were much higher quality than any after market stuff today. The factory systems added $400 to the cost of the car, over 10% of the new car cost of an A body. For this money back then Chrysler gave you a really high quality system, copper and brass evaporators and perhaps one of the best automotive A/C compressors ever built.
None of the after market stuff today comes close to the quality level of the original components. The original system in my 71 Charger works just fine.
I would have no concerns about rebuilding the original evaporator box with a DMT seal kit and reusing the evaporator core as long as it is not physically damaged. Under the hood you could look into a firewall forward kit with a newer compressor and parallel flow condenser.
With a little careful shopping and scrounging you could save yourself some dollars over a kit if you plan out the under hood system yourself, using either newer or original components.
I see someone offered you an original RV compressor and brackets. I would not overlook that offer as shaft seals and gaskets are readily available and that compressor is quite easy to service.
Feel free to PM me if you have questions. I've been working on these original systems for over 40 years.
I think I have pretty much decided to go newer aftermarket under the hood. the sanden compressor retrofit with new condenser, drier, lines, etc. Classic has a kit for all that stuff and sounds like the easiest way to get it going.
I think I am going to do a little work on it this weekend and see if I can get the blower working and see if all the switches and things work. That will help me in deciding on a budgetary stand point.
If all the switches and what not work then, I will look into a DMT seal kit and see about rebuilding the air box, my only real concern is the evaporator, if its corroded inside or has a leak or what not.
I think I am going to do a little work on it this weekend and see if I can get the blower working and see if all the switches and things work. That will help me in deciding on a budgetary stand point.
If all the switches and what not work then, I will look into a DMT seal kit and see about rebuilding the air box, my only real concern is the evaporator, if its corroded inside or has a leak or what not.
...
mguner
How many is too many?
Mine had been open a while but after evacuating it for a little longer than usual it came around. I found a factory pump for the slant but when I put the V-8 in a made a bracket to use the Denso unit from the 94-97 Intrepid platform. It required a relay to power the clutch coil and a little hose fabrication but blows nice and cold on the cheap.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
My plan.......partly due to cost and partly "what I found" was to buy the aftermarket Sanden stuff from a member on here .......used, and then found an aftermarket, unitised evap / heater off CL. It's VERY VERY tiny takes up less room than the orignal heater
Disadvantage: Heater connections are "in" the car. No fresh air through the heater. Also, the original controls don't work, although "industrious" people might be able to modify the factory controls. Mine of course were originally "heater only"
You could hide the aftermarket controls in under the dash or in glove box
Advantage: Not that expensive, gives you an "all new" components package, and smaller and more compact than original
Disadvantage: Heater connections are "in" the car. No fresh air through the heater. Also, the original controls don't work, although "industrious" people might be able to modify the factory controls. Mine of course were originally "heater only"
You could hide the aftermarket controls in under the dash or in glove box
Advantage: Not that expensive, gives you an "all new" components package, and smaller and more compact than original
BWDart
Well-Known Member
I put an aftermarket unit in my 72 covered the holes for the stock hoses and ran all the new lines a/c and heat thru a plate I made to cover the hole where the original blower motor went thru the firewall if you go aftermarke make sure to get one with defrost option I didn't and had to rig defrost PITA
bobscuda67
Well-Known Member
Not tot to hijack this thread but I was wondering if you just replaced the compressor with a Sanden and used the stock condenser what kind of cooling could you expect?
Would it be that much better with a parallel flow condenser?
Would it be that much better with a parallel flow condenser?
I went with the OEM pieces on my 69 Dart. I converted to R-134a and it works like a champ. I actually used the 70 and newer WP, pulley arrangement. I had the original hoses rebuilt at a local HYD shop. I know the old RV-2 compressor is a HP eater, but nothing cools like one either. She blows 34 degrees.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
How much HP does it eat and does the newer stuff eat less?
The factory is a two piston compressor, the newer styles are of the rotary type. In actual HP numbers I can't tell you. But when you turn the two types on, you can teel a difference.
Pete in NH
Well-Known Member
This is exactly what I'm doing with my 69 Barracuda. 70 and up Water pump and compressor bracket for the RV-2 compressor. The 70 and up pieces are easier to find than the earlier pieces. The dual belt drive is also a better system than the 69 and earlier single belt drive
Pete in NH
Well-Known Member
There's nothing magic about Sanden type compressors.You do need to consider compressor displacement. The RV-2's were a little over 10 cubic inches. The RV types used on /6's were around 9 cubic inches displacement. So, you need to pick a similar displacement Sanden.
R-134A is not as efficient in moving heat as the old R-12. Parallel condensers are more efficient than the older serpentine flow units and help make up for the less efficient R-134A. The early 1970's and late 60's Mopar systems were over designed to the point that even with the older serpentine condensers they seem to convert to R-134A well IF you use the original OEM radiator fans and shrouds to get a good air flow going.
By the mid 1980's systems were designed to save weight and money were designed right to the bare minimum. They do not convert well to R-134A without parallel flow condensers.
Challenger
Well-Known Member
aftermarket so much easier all self contain --I am a vintage dealer and have a 69 dart with gen 3 and love it not bad to install made my kit up myself they didn't have one but vintage are designing and build more sure fit kits for chryslers
That was exactly the reasons I went to the later setup.
LJ67barracuda340
Well-Known Member
I have the Vintage Air Gen 3, Sanden compressor, condenser and hoses. I went with all new matched parts instead of retro fitting old stuff. Remember piston compresses don't like 6000 rpm, rotary compresses don't mind. I wanted it to work the first time. The hoses are running outside the rad support mainly to keep the engine bay clean but I think the routing would be difficult if it was in the engine bay. My dash is out right now for a complete wiring harness so I can take more pics if needed.
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