Reusing trans fluid

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LocuMob

LocuMob

Fluid Technician
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I put a manual valve body in my car but it hurts my girlfriend's back when we drive it (she has a fused back). I am wondering if it is ok to reuse the fluid out of my transmission that has only 30-40 miles on it when I switch back to the stock valve body. I don't want to waste $20+ on the red stuff if I don't need to. I figured drain and use the funnel with a filter. I have a clean catch pan, so there shouldn't be much contaminates. I'm ready for your opinions.



Scott
 
I've been informed by a few tranny mechanics that it's the best thing to do for an old transmission when doing a filter change. The suspended particulates in the fluid will help the glazed clutches grab. They say that an old transmission with glazed clutches probably won't make it around the block with new fluid. That said, I see nothing wrong with using old fluid. I've done it myself on more than one occasion.
 
Leadfoot said:
I've been informed by a few tranny mechanics that it's the best thing to do for an old transmission when doing a filter change. The suspended particulates in the fluid will help the glazed clutches grab. They say that an old transmission with glazed clutches probably won't make it around the block with new fluid. That said, I see nothing wrong with using old fluid. I've done it myself on more than one occasion.
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I agree with this. Early in my wrenching days, I changed filters and fluid in transmissions that had over , say 125k, or were already slipping. Same result. Broke Trans. Time for rebuild.
 
I've reused trans fluid a few times in the past, when it was basic type A or type F.
 
The main reason they don't like new fluid in an old trans is that the new detergent introduced to an old worn trans can disolve what is left of it old clutch and band material.
I reuse it all the time as long as it's still nice and red (Type F)
I just strain it through an old T shirt and done deal.
 
With just 30 miles on it I would. Of course the right answer is to put fresh stuff in. Just my humbled opinion
 
bOb shingler said:
coffee filters are your friend.
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Yes they work great, but a little slow for me.
Now if they made them 6-8 inches deep so they worked in a trans funnel that would be different.
Paint strainers work, but they seem to be a bit large in the filter screen for my liking.
 
My opinion and you asked.......

Keep the Valve Body and Dump the Girlfriend riding in the car! Lol

I am sure there is a way to tone down the shifts. I have 904 with a FMRVB and the shifts are in no way Back shattering. I did build the trans myself too. Valve body is from Joe at Tranzact of Indy. 410 Stroker with a 200 Hit of NOS. Even when I full out let it have it with NOS on the shifts. The car lunges forward instantly but still it is not violent at all. I think there is something a miss with your line pressure or something.
 
Mad Dart said:
Keep the Valve Body and Dump the Girlfriend riding in the car! Lol

The car lunges forward instantly but still it is not violent at all. I think there is something a miss with your line pressure or something.
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1. I've thought about it!

2. How would I go about checking that? Do I need a gauge somewhere inline coming out of the trans? Have yet to get inside deeper than a valve body. Is it somet and I can do myself or do I need to take it to a shop?

Thanks everyone for the input. I forgot to mention the trans was rebuilt when I got it, never ran, has only a few thousand on it. Bought it a while back. Want to say the guy told me it had one step over stock internals, bands and clutches, nothing exotic, but improved. Drove fine before MVB was installed. Shifted a little firm when shifting manually, but could be soft when left in Drive. I can pedal it now to soften it up, but it still jerks some no matter what. I also bought the MVB a while ago, but after driving it I remember the guy, in his mid 60's, saying it was too racy for guys his age. I didn't remember til I shifted that first time. :D

Look forward to more advice from all of you!

Scott
 
I'd personally leave the trans alone , when she is in the car leave it in drive and let it shift itself
 
there is an accumulator spring in those "shift kit "trans and the softer the spring, the softer the band apply. If you put a rod in there, the band apply is like getting kicked in your back. Maybe a softer spring. REuse the fluid.
 
GEO said:
I'd personally leave the trans alone , when she is in the car leave it in drive and let it shift itself
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Manual VB. :)

Could back the line pressure down so it shifts a little slower and softer.
 
TrailBeast said:
Manual VB. :)

Could back the line pressure down so it shifts a little slower and softer.
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How do I do that? This is all Greek to me.

Mad- don't know what brand. It has six bolts holding the plate on the top that goes against the trans, the sticker had four. Some engraved numbers, I forgot to take a pic of them before I installed it so that doesn't help.
 
Mad Dart said:
My opinion and you asked.......

Keep the Valve Body and Dump the Girlfriend riding in the car! Lol

I am sure there is a way to tone down the shifts. I have 904 with a FMRVB and the shifts are in no way Back shattering. I did build the trans myself too. Valve body is from Joe at Tranzact of Indy. 410 Stroker with a 200 Hit of NOS. Even when I full out let it have it with NOS on the shifts. The car lunges forward instantly but still it is not violent at all. I think there is something a miss with your line pressure or something.
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John put a brake in the VB? I was wondering what that button on the seat was for :D
 
airwoofer said:
John put a brake in the VB? I was wondering what that button on the seat was for :D
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I bought a new VB from Joe at tranzact. Pro Brake with Low Band Apply. I have not installed it yet. I am running his Reverse Pattern Full Manual VB right now. I will swap in the trans brake VB when I get under the car to install the new shifter and cable.

View attachment phpINkiGKPM.jpg
 
Mad Dart said:
My opinion and you asked.......

Keep the Valve Body and Dump the Girlfriend riding in the car! Lol

I am sure there is a way to tone down the shifts. I have 904 with a FMRVB and the shifts are in no way Back shattering. I did build the trans myself too. Valve body is from Joe at Tranzact of Indy. 410 Stroker with a 200 Hit of NOS. Even when I full out let it have it with NOS on the shifts. The car lunges forward instantly but still it is not violent at all. I think there is something a miss with your line pressure or something.
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The difference from yours to his could be the torque converter. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I remember you have a 3800 stall in yours. High stall converters act like a shock absorber on the shifts. If his is stock converter or just a little above stock it won't dampen anything. When I was in my 20's I rode in a buddy's Trans-am that had a manual vb and stock converter and even under light throttle it had bone jarring shifts. I have fused discs in my neck and could imagine how uncomfortable it would be. For that reason I won't put a manual VB in anything unless it has a least a 3k stall.

As Trailbeast mentioned backing off the line pressure adjustment may help some. If it's a stock torque converter it may not be enough.

LocuMob the line pressure adjustment is on the side of the valve body. I'll see if I can find a picture and post it
 
pishta said:
there is an accumulator spring in those "shift kit "trans and the softer the spring, the softer the band apply. If you put a rod in there, the band apply is like getting kicked in your back. Maybe a softer spring. REuse the fluid.
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Manual valve bodies usually have a bypass circuit for the accumulator
 
Here ya go.
Counterclockwise raises the pressure and clockwise lowers it.
If I remember it is something like 7 lbs per 360 degree turn? (not sure about that)
 

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fishy68 said:
The difference from yours to his could be the torque converter. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I remember you have a 3800 stall in yours. High stall converters act like a shock absorber on the shifts. If his is stock converter or just a little above stock it won't dampen anything. When I was in my 20's I rode in a buddy's Trans-am that had a manual vb and stock converter and even under light throttle it had bone jarring shifts. I have fused discs in my neck and could imagine how uncomfortable it would be. For that reason I won't put a manual VB in anything unless it has a least a 3k stall.

As Trailbeast mentioned backing off the line pressure adjustment may help some. If it's a stock torque converter it may not be enough.

LocuMob the line pressure adjustment is on the side of the valve body. I'll see if I can find a picture and post it
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Yes my converter is a 9.5" custom unit from Lenny at Ultimate.
I hear what you are saying. My shifts feel like a rubber band being pulled back and let go. It stalls to 3800. On the NOS it will flash to 4200. Lenny was telling me after I install
The TBVB it will flash a little more than it does now. Driving around you would never
Know it had a converter in it until you smash the go pedal. Technology sure has came
A long way.
 
They may have used Type F fluid. If you get rid of that, it should shift nicer. I tried type F in my 68 barracuda once, real hard shifts, but I could not stand it. It was my daily driver street car.
 
fishy68 said:
The difference from yours to his could be the torque converter. For that reason I won't put a manual VB in anything unless it has a least a 3k stall.
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I believe it's a 2600-2800 stall.

Thanks for pointing out the location for the adjuster.
 
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