Rocker Geometry!
- Thread starter B3RE
- Start date
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I guess I should clarify a bit. You would need pushrod oiling just to oil the adjuster cup. The shaft would still be oiled normally. Unless the rocker is modified to internally oil the cup, with the appropriate adjuster, then the pushrod fed oiling is necessary.
Lustle
Well-Known Member
You're welcome.
Haha I'm pretty sure he's already running your setup, that's why I asked. I know he does a lot of the power tour stuff and had been doing some head work lately. So I thought maybe they were for him. The mopar world is rather small like that.
those rockers are steel right , and there weight over or under the alloy t&d's . steel ones seem more bullet proff . should i make my own shafts from heavy wall chromol tube or are their shaft good to go as well . i'm building a 470 ci stage 6 alloy chapman mw port'd n flow'd by dave story in ky . mw twin fours new mopar intake match'd pair of 750's . good rods n pistons , run some street , some strip . spiro jannings of redline cams is grinding my cam , he has ground cams for dave that would turn'd 8800 on a truck pulling wedge made 808 hp on gas one carb . i'm not thinking that number , not buzzing it that number just 75-8 in a super stock set up 63 fury . so my point is nascar over nhra built race engines . with the old school look .
Tim,
I've been thinking about doing this with a set of RAS steel rockers I have here, but they oil a little differently than most. How do your Norris rockers oil the pushrod? Is it with a squirt hole, or past the adjuster threads, or....?
Excuse my ignorance, I'm new to this game, do the magnum style heads with the stud rockers suffer from mis-alignment too?
The last rocker pic is of T&Ds with the steel option. As far as weight is concerned, it's not the total weight of the rocker that is important, rather the weight seen through rotational movement, or "moment of inertia". Its kind of like a crankshaft. A heavy crank does not take out bearings and other parts, but an out of balance crank will. They idea is to minimize the rotation mass, and to balance it out as much as possible. That being said, I haven't weighed them to see what the difference is, but it isn't much. The steel rockers have a lot less material than the alloy rockers. They would easily turn 8000+ rpm.
The rocker shafts are very nice straight from T&D, and there is an offset shaft option if necessary. It would likely cost a lot more to do the set piece by piece.
I would encourage anyone who is interested in getting Mopar rockers with great geometry, to email us. We have purchased over $10,000 worth of custom rockers in the last 3 months, but we want to show that this is not just coincidence.
No need to be excused. Everyone is ignorant to some degree.
The magnum heads present the same challenges as a Chevy or Ford head with studs. You can adjust geometry with pushrod length, but finding a rocker the correct length for your combination can be difficult. Just centering the pattern ain't gonna cut it. Relocating the studs in the heads to account for the length of the rocker is even more of a hassle. In short, to do it right, they can be easy or hard. Usually hard.
Thanks for the info! I'm currently building my first engine with a trusted builder, a 408/360, and I'm trying to absorb all the knowledge I can.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
The Norris oil through a squirt hole in the body that shoots oil to the adjuster. I've seed that system on w-2/5 heads past 8500 RPM but I like the ball adjuster better.
That could be be changed over and the hole blocked, but my RAS rockers feed oil through a cutout in the adjuster thread. Not sure what kind of issues that might cause trying to oil the adjuster.
Are his initials KM by chance?
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I know the adjuster area on the Norris rockers isn't nearly as thick as the MP rockers I have. I'm not a fan of aluminum rockers but maybe I should just use the MP rockers and have you convert them to ball adjusters.
Can you bush a set of aluminum rockers?
Well, the Norris rockers are steel (?), so they wouldn't need as much material around the adjuster. I used 3/8-24 cup style adjusters in Bobs Hughes rockers, and you could do the same with the Norris rockers.
I could bush the rockers, but it would take some time making up fixtures, and getting the set up right. You would probably get them done cheaper, and quicker from someplace like RAS that does that kind of work regularly.
Lonewolf3165
Living the Dream!
Can Harland Sharpe rockers be converted to the ball/cup style adjusters? I have a set already and don't want to replace them if not necessary. EZ-1 heads.
Yes, but I would plan on oiling the cup with the pushrod.
b3re , do you find push rod oiling better for high rpm vs shaft oiling , what about endurance ?
To me, it's like a bath vs a shower. If it produces the same result, I really don't care. Pressurized oil is always a good thing to have at areas that are under a lot of load, but depending on design, that isn't going to happen consistently. The factory shaft oiling only oils once every two crank revolutions, so it isn't maintaining pressurized oil to the rocker shafts without modifications. Even with a constant flow, there is a lot of oil that bleeds out every open orifice around the rocker arm that allowsetal to metal contact. Despite what you may have heard, it's not just like the bearings on the crankshaft, and can't be treated as such. When I am doing a build, it depends on what works best for the combination.
thanks , i gather that no oiling also carries more heat from the springs as well . wedge heads have enough run back for it . would you restrict the oil from the cam valley , or let it coat out the push rod area , for more heat removal ? i remembering i'll track it , but street it as well . and that some time leads to a race of machines , lol .
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