Roll bar/ 4 point 6 points or 8points

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kbsouers

kbsouers

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I am at a point I need to decide on safety restraints. I would like t use 5 point harness. In purple to match the car. I need to install a roll bar to mount the harness to. Jeggs seems to be priced the best. Does anyone have suggestions . I am a little concerned about having to climb over the forward bar on a 6 point.
The car is for hanging at car cruises/shows. And the occasional open track days at lyme rock road course/race way. Thanks
 
They make a legal swing out kit for getting in and out easily. I would advise 8 as your in there welding anyways " in for a dime, in for a dollar" ? On the other hand A roll cage or roll bar is said not to be safe on the street when you're not wearing a helmet and things like that they are actually said to be more dangerous. They're meant for racing not for driving on the street. If your car is not doing under-11. 5 in the quarter mile you don't need one anyways. Just some food for thought as you make your decision. not trying to sway you one way or the other.
 
Find a good chassis shop and have them bend/install it for you..I have a 6-point with driverside swing out made just the way I wanted it and its good down to 10 flat..
 
I would say 8 point - and do the swing out kit - I have the swing out on both sides because I plan to street drive the car and want to be able to have the misses with me.. check the rule book associated with the type of racing you are doing before doing anything. Those prefab kits are ok - they'll get you through tech inspection if installed properly.
 
Just remember all those metal bars around your head with no helmet even with a little bit of padding it's going to give you one hell of a headache if you get in an accident on the street where you'll likely not be wearing a helmet. If you're just going to race it once in a great while to see what it can do And it's above 11.5, I would consider that in your decision-making about a roll bar.
 
this is true - on the other hand - I have never been in an accident that didn't give me a headache.. and I remember one in particular where I wish there had been a metal bar with a pad on it instead of that roof edge right where the windshield meets... of course I wasn't wearing a seat belt either so...
..besides, roofs crush - rollbars pretty much don't.. you might get a headache, but you'll be alive.. JM2C
j par said:
Just remember all those metal bars around your head with no helmet even with a little bit of padding it's going to give you one hell of a headache if you get in an accident on the street where you'll likely not be wearing a helmet. If you're just going to race it once in a great while to see what it can do And it's above 11.5, I would consider that in your decision-making about a roll bar.
Click to expand...
 
I don't think you can even get near any of the welds with a grinder if you are looking for a competition legal rollbar. In other words, you better be a damm good welder. I dressed my welds with a grinder, but most tech inspections miss that. If you go through a real tech inspection, it would fail for that reason.

I have a 6 point bar in my '68. (looks like a 4 point, but with two additional forward attaching points) four of the points located fight on the passenger seat floor board, welded to a steel plate that connects the door-sill and subframe connectors together on the floor pan, and the remaining two bars connect to the top side of the rear frame segments behind the rear seat.

An 8 point bar would have gone from mid-to-low on the main loop towards the front of the car where it would connect to a plate on the front floorboard/firewall. I could have used a bent bar to dip down enough to allow easier access, but It would not be legal, per say. It would stiffen the chassis to some degree though. It depends what you are after.
 

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Thank you everyone. You all have good thoughts. Got me thinking now.......I'm going to price out a pipe bender I've always wanted and tube from a local steel supplier in 20foot lengths.
Plus a hole saw jig for the drill press. I think I can tool up for what I would pay for a 8 or 10 point cage. This way I can start with a 4 point and add if I want. It's important that my Maine hoop go through the floor and mount directly to my frame connectors. Not welded just to plates on the floor. I see I can buy the ends for swing outs. This might be a fun way to go. I've needed to brush up on my tig welding any way .🤓
 
Jbc426. Thank you. Tig or mig is no problem. I like how your seat is incorporated. I now need to consider weather or not to have a back seat or just a large flat deck.... Hmm...
 
You must plan on running outriggers from frame connectors to rocker panels.

Don't do the cage like this... dumbest stuff ever!!!


That's the main hoop with a big bend near the bottom of upright and tied into the side of a frame connector... rocket science was not taught with this one!!! :)

I hope you can get a LONG deal on steel tube. I can't buy tube at a cost close to what I can buy a pre-bent 6-8 point rollbar for.
 
jbc426 said:
I don't think you can even get near any of the welds with a grinder if you are looking for a competition legal rollbar. In other words, you better be a damm good welder. I dressed my welds with a grinder, but most tech inspections miss that. If you go through a real tech inspection, it would fail for that reason.

I have a 6 point bar in my '68. (looks like a 4 point, but with two additional forward attaching points) four of the points located fight on the passenger seat floor board, welded to a steel plate that connects the door-sill and subframe connectors together on the floor pan, and the remaining two bars connect to the top side of the rear frame segments behind the rear seat.

An 8 point bar would have gone from mid-to-low on the main loop towards the front of the car where it would connect to a plate on the front floorboard/firewall. I could have used a bent bar to dip down enough to allow easier access, but It would not be legal, per say. It would stiffen the chassis to some degree though. It depends what you are after.
Click to expand...
This roll bar looks like something to make someone with a convertible feel a little more safe but as far as passing any kind of tech. there's no way in these parts ether track I go to that roll bar would let you go under 11.5 especially with a convertible. Nice looking through.... :D
 
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