Roller rocker ideas for 340 build

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smartken22

smartken22

U.S. Navy Senior Chief
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My 340 build is underway and right now I am getting pulled in different directions on which roller rocker setup to run. I was originally going to go with the Harland sharp setup, but I am also being told that Hughes or comp cams are the way to go. I have done searches and I am still not sure what direction to go. Thoughts? I am going to be running a XE275HL cam with .525 lift. This is not a daily driver car, more of a show/weekend car not that this makes a difference. She will not see the strip. Let me know if you need more specs on the motor build. Thanks for the help.
 
if it will never see the strip just save the $ and put the stamped rockers back on it.it will run forever and you wont have to touch a thing saving 600.00for crane roller rockers or 375.00 for a cheaper set , yes the Harland sharps are good too . but in my opinion you don't need any of it and it will still give you what you want .save the $for nice tires ,or good exhaust or ticket $ lol you"ll be just fine without them and never have to wonder if you here a click from a rocker
 
winstoninwisc said:
if it will never see the strip just save the $ and put the stamped rockers back on it.it will run forever and you wont have to touch a thing saving 600.00for crane roller rockers or 375.00 for a cheaper set , yes the Harland sharps are good too . but in my opinion you don't need any of it and it will still give you what you want .save the $for nice tires ,or good exhaust or ticket $ lol you"ll be just fine without them and never have to wonder if you here a click from a rocker
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Spoken like a man who has never had a pushrod punch through a stamped rocker.

edited to add. Needle bearing fulcrum rockers would be overkill , but that doesn't make them a bad choice.
Bushed rollers or aluminum rollers are the next step down from there.
With banana grooved shafts , they would be a decent choice.
At a minimum , I'd go with the heavy duty stamped steel rockers that MoPar makes. I had less cam that that and the popped through on two of them.
That was with not a ton of miles on the build and i got lucky because they stayed roughly where they should have been and never let a lifter pop out of it's bore. Sounded very unpleasant though....... lol
 
I agree harland sharp is way overkill for application.

The steel Comp roller tip rockers will be very durable and lasting and less expensive. IMM has said the Pro Comp rockers are good too and a good value. Even Isky dutile rockers would be fine.

In a 340 that cam will rev.

But any which way, I'd suggest checking the length of your pushrods so see if they are in the acceptable range of your hydrualic lifter plungers.

Decent sized ~.525" lift performance cam, non stock lifters, head milling, block decking, valve seat inserts, various valve jobs, etc all can have an effect on your geometry.

Google lifter noise with Comp XE cams. Check your pushrods with your stamped rockers and if neccessary order new custom pushrods from Smith Bros.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I am leaning more towards the Comp Cams Pro Magnums right now as they are cheaper and steel vice aluminum. I have not ordered anything yet as I am waiting for the machinist to tell me what I need as far as the rest of the internals go. I will call comp cams about pushrods that match the cam and rockers. I am not going back to stamped rockers as I was running a hi lift cam before and they were pretty worn and the valve stems had a lot of wear as well. Trying to do this right the first time. Do those comp roller rockers come with the shafts or is it just the rocker arms? Looking at P/N: 1622-16. Thanks all.
 
Comp pro mags is what is have on my eddy headed 340.
 
Hughes are way over kill as well. But id use 'em. My vote goes to hughes rockers!

73cuox.jpg
 
I am going with the 284/484 purple shaft, rhodes lifters, a set of solid lift adjustable rockers out of a 273, and stock springs.

it is put together, but not run yet.
I may change the springs later after break in.
 
Details of Comp Pro Magnums
 

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I considered the comp pro comps but was turned away because the ad said they had rollers in the trunion, but that picture has bushings.
 
I've seen a guy have 2 piece valve covers, and he made a custom top out of 1/4" thick lexan...it was pretty damn trick to see his nice rockers and watching everything in action. if i had the skill, id do the same thing. LOL
 
smartken22 said:
That is what I am looking at running. Do they come with shafts? Where did you get those billet holddowns?
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Forgot if they come with shafts. Check their website.

I felt steel rocker would be more durable than aluminum.

You do not need bananna grooves because the rocker have the large area in the center to hold oil. Some of the bronze inserts were barely sticking past the rocker housings. So just to take the extra step, we flat sanded the sides so they had more bearing area.

The holddowns are Mopar Performance. Harland Sharp hold downs would work fine too. IIRC, those were on backorder from Summit so I got the MP's.

We had to fit the holddowns and spacers to get the rocker side spacing spec that Comp called for. We did not need shims as the hold downs were plenty wide and had to be narrowed anyways. Started with the center rockers and worked our way outwards. When finished each hold down and rocker was number stamped to keep its fitted place. So if it gets taken apart in the future, the order will allready be marked and direction of the hold down because those can be flipped.
 

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Wow, awesome tech, thanks! I think that I will be going this route. I like the steel option better. I will call comp on Monday cause I need to make sure I get the correct pushrods as well for my setup. Thanks all for the help!

autoxcuda said:
Forgot if they come with shafts. Check their website.

I felt steel rocker would be more durable than aluminum.

You do not need bananna grooves because the rocker have the large area in the center to hold oil. Some of the bronze inserts were barely sticking past the rocker housings. So just to take the extra step, we flat sanded the sides so they had more bearing area.

The holddowns are Mopar Performance. Harland Sharp hold downs would work fine too. IIRC, those were on backorder from Summit so I got the MP's.

We had to fit the holddowns and spacers to get the rocker side spacing spec that Comp called for. We did not need shims as the hold downs were plenty wide and had to be narrowed anyways. Started with the center rockers and worked our way outwards. When finished each hold down and rocker was number stamped to keep its fitted place. So if it gets taken apart in the future, the order will allready be marked and direction of the hold down because those can be flipped.
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