ROSEY RUNS!!!!!!! (sort of)

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nashvegas99

nashvegas99

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well, just for the heck of it, I went back out to the garage, hooked up the old battery, pumped the carb once, turned the key on, leaned over the jump the starter and there she went.....running. Shut the front door!!!!!!!!!! What????
so, I immediately opened the choke a little to get her to keep running, and grabbed my timing light. She was running dead on at 5 deg and sounded great. let her warm up, reattached the vacuum hose to the carb. caused her to advance a little time so I readjusted her and she sounded great for several minutes. then started to sputter. looked at the top of the carb and fuel was coming out of the economizer. I wiped it off, tightened down the screws on the economizer and she slowed the oozing of gas a little. but she kept oozing - I'm guessing the whole float issue or the needle seat. About that time my wife comes out in the garage and asks what the terrible smell is and then I see this whitish grey smoke coming off the exhaust mani. Well, the epoxy steele crap I bought that they say is for exhaust mani's is burning away like melting rubber. scrapped it off with the flick of my finger....so much for that crap! I turned her off (the car not my wife) and then tried to restart her and she just cranked over and over. FLOODED! well then thick white smoke came out of the carb while she was sitting there cooling off.
I did the dollar bill trick at the exhaust pipe and no sucking in, just pushing out. so, I've got to figure out now if I want to get a new carb or just try to get this one to work. thinking to get another one ready to bolt on and rebuilt and run. another 40.00 for another rebuild kit....or 25.00 worth of new screws and gaskets...or just get another carb. Im guessing other than running the fuel line and the vacuum lines, it pretty much mounts the same. The only other issue I'm having is that the throttle seems to have no effect what so ever on the choke opening or closing. it's like something is missing in that part or not connected right. I'll try to post a pic or to over the weekend. new gas tank and sending unit coming at the end of the month. i'll run new hard lines and then I'm on to the brakes AGAIN.
 
Congratulations....followed by sorry about the troubles. Keep plugging away at it, you WILL get it resolved....
 
seems like all my troubles start with fuel tank?pickup that is full of rust and NEEDS to be replaced ($200) or more. then the 50 year old fuel line from tank to fuel pump. ($75 or so?) then after replacing those items, THEN clean rebuild old carb ( kit and cleaner) or get better carb from member ( lots time good thing). LOL
 
The economizer valve depends on vacuum from under the carb in the manifold and that vacuum source feeds in a small passage beside the economizer valve and comes out in the 4th small hole up where the 3 economizer valve mounting holes are.

1) Make sure you can blow down throught this passage with a small hose pressed onto that hole, and see if you can hear the air coming out under the carb in the manifold
2) Get a diagram and make sure the spring under the economizer valve is there.
3) Make sure that the economizer valve diaphragm is not twisted and cracked

All that being said, the economizer valve being open during idle should not put gas out of the main bleeds (in the throat)

Did you measure the fuel level in the bowl with the economizer valve out? It should be around 11/16" below the mounting surface for the economizer valve on top of the carb. This will tell you for sure if the float/needle/seat are workign right or not; it is an excellent visual on the gas level. Just watch out if it overflows (if the needle valve is indeed open).
 
barbee6043 said:
seems like all my troubles start with fuel tank?pickup that is full of rust and NEEDS to be replaced ($200) or more. then the 50 year old fuel line from tank to fuel pump. ($75 or so?) then after replacing those items, THEN clean rebuild old carb ( kit and cleaner) or get better carb from member ( lots time good thing). LOL
Click to expand...


that is my plan...haha. if I can find a decent 1 bbl carb that isn't outrageous ready to bolt on, I WOULD LOVE THAT. If you know of anyone that has any of those items, send'em my way.
 
well, she fired up first time and after adjusting a few things I really don't know about adjusting...haha...she ran great; for about 15 mins. then the gas in the small can ran out and she would restart. just cranked and cranked. sounded flooded again. I had already readjusted the float level again but I think it is flooding out. new needle seat. I think something is not working correctly on the choke also. but the part that I want to ask about is the white exhaust smoke billowing out of the carb when she stops running.

I also wanted to ask about Autolite carbs. I am looking to get a rebuilt one and hook everything up. My questions are: 1) are the decent enough carbs for everynow and then driving while she's getting fixed up 2) will the choke lever from the manifold attach the same way

I've got to get a 1/2 in longer bolts and put the thicker riser on there also (per one of the shadetrees around the neighborhood).

she sure runs through some gas really quickly.
 
The white smoke is excess gas vaporizing and coming back up out of the carb. Don't decide to light up a cigarette at that time.....
 
anything i need to do to correct that?
Also, I think I'm going to get mikes carb rebuild kit for 3057 list 1920 carb and give it another rebuild (try to at least). I'm getting ready to order a gas tank from autoparts warehouse and a fuel sender and run new lines from the local parts store up to the pump. I wasn't sure which way to go on the rebuild kit or a new rebuilt carter 1 bbl.
 
No one can tell you if that is the right kit without the list number from the carb.....I assume you looked it up.

Yes, don't smke around fuel vapors.....and the excess gass is probably due to the flooding. Read and follow the instructions carefully.
 
Well, i measured the wet level and it was dead on 11/16. Replaced the diaphragm with one that matched holes etc . Placed the thicker spacer. Turned her over and she fired right up running fast. I adjusted the dist and did nothing so i moved it bAck to original place. She ran really well for a little bit and warmed up well. Turned her off and on abôut 4 times wifh immediate firing up. Then she wouldnt start. Just the cranking and cranking. I was noticing that that vacuum bell does not seem to be working and the butterfly doesnt act right either. No gas out of diaphragm of economizer. Progress made a little. I guess i'll need to figure out the vacuum diaphragm issue. she sounds really good when she is running though. thanks again everyone for your advice. may not appear that I am using it or listening, but I am and it is helping me a lot.
 
So i had a rebuild guy look at my carb so he could educate me in person and he told me that "no matter how many times you rebuild this carb, it wont work right. The choke shaft is wobbled out and wont function correctly". He suggested getting a rebuilt carb. He would rebuild my carb for 65.00 + parts but said he thought it probably wouldnt help the flooding issue. So, im off to find another 1 bbl carb for Rosey and then back to the brakes. Thanks again all for your input and education. I really appreciate it. Ill update as it goes
 
Hope you get a good one.....Mopar56 posted a thread here and appeared to have 2 bad carbs in a row.

Throttle shaft bushings can be installed if the throttle shaft is not worn, just the body. Cehck with Mike's Carburator if interested.

Sounds like the choke on yours is not set up right but hard to tell without pix and a full description with the pix.
 
I've got a Holley 1920 1 bbl. I'm not using as I've super sixed my Valiant. It was running when I had it on the car but has been sitting in the garage so it would need a quick going through. Shoot me an offer if you need it.
 
I had similar issues when I bought my '72 Dart with 225 /6 and I bought the Autoline C7066 carb (Holley 1920 rebuilt) from Rockauto along with the Spectra Premium fuel tank and a new sending unit. I also replaced all the soft fuel line with new fuel injector line (holds up better to ethanol in new gas). I'm going into the second year and everything is fine so far.

A couple more notes:
- swapping on the new Autoline carb was very easy, took maybe 15 minutes tops.
- I've heard a lot of bad things about the rebuilts, and I'm sure there's a lot of truth to it, but the 1920 on my Dart was already an older parts store rebuilt, so it may or may not have been a good one to rebuild anyway. So, I opted for the Autoline, and so far so good.
- Be sure you put the carb gasket on the right way when you replace the carb, there's a hole that has to go the right way.
- When you replace the sending unit, reuse the old lock ring. It's thicker than the junk ones they make now, and will seal right. The $15 lock ring removal tool isn't necessary but it makes replacing it an effortless job taking about 1 minute.
- Be sitting down when you see the price on the Autoline carb. I still think it was worth it, to me anyway.

Good luck whatever you decide to do! The difference in the way my Dart runs now as before I did this work is night and day.

EDIT: I just found your other thread and see that you have a '65. The note above about the carb gasket may or may not be true for your year, and the part # for the carb I gave may or may not be correct for a '65. Just thought I'd put that out there to avoid any confusion later ;)
 
Thanks for the input. Ive found a couple rebuilt ones to purchase i appreciate the tidbits of help. We will see soon. I an on getting a new tank and sending unit the end of the month. Im going to replace all the lines also with fuel inj line and hard lines.
 
Why do you call her "Rosey"?


Is it after "Rosey Palmer" and her "five sisters".... LOL!
 
Hahaha....i call her Rosey because the po told me she was "reddish in color" and when he sent pics and i showed my wife (who is not into any of this) she said , "thats not red thats rose...you should call her Rosey". Any input my wife puts into the project i'll take and run with it.

My daughter is going to help me set up my ipad this evening and ill try to upload some pics of the carb as she sits right now , for pics of the choke set up.
 
I sent you a pm. Thanks lowbudget.


QUOTE=lowbudget;1970493941]I've got a Holley 1920 1 bbl. I'm not using as I've super sixed my Valiant. It was running when I had it on the car but has been sitting in the garage so it would need a quick going through. Shoot me an offer if you need it.[/QUOTE]
 
Here are a few pics of the carb as it was put back on. Not sure you can tell much or be able to hprovide much with them, but i'll take everything i can get.
 

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well, after all the hoopla and posts, i found out that it was pretty much the fueling issue all along. she fires up first time the key is turned now every time (until she runs and floods out). I've ordered a new tank, sending unit, and rebuilt carter carb. After i get all those installed, i'll try to get her running enough again to be able to start doing the next things on my list...changing the oil, replacing the master cylinder w/ 2 reservoir MC and rerunning the brake lines w/ the blocking 1 port and running straight to the back from the MC. I REALLY REALLY APPRECIATE all of your input and patience. Thank you all so much.
 
Is the upper end of the clear plastic tube tight on the nipple on the back of the choke pulloff dashpot? It does not look it. If not, the pull-off will not work, and it will not open the choke properly when you rev it, and the mixture will be wrong off of idle. That is the wrong type of hose to use anyway; you need to use real vacuum hose. That clear stuff will loosen up.
 
took the old holley carb off, put the new rebuilt carter on there. hooked everything up. used my small one gallon can w/ gas. turned the key and runs like a kitten. turned the idle down a little and she is timed out at about 5-7 deg. runs and idles like a champ.

Also, removed the old gas tank and it had a lot of rust in it. put on a new sending unit (will have to adjust the arm after I get another gauge). blew out the line, added new rubber extensions, primed and painted the new tank and wire wheeled the strap and primed/painted it. removed all the brake lines and junction blocks (see other post) and ordered the brake lines and the dual res MC to replace. what a fun day!!!!!!!
 
Just a day in the life of an old car owner..... I have been rebuilding a heater/defroster electric & vacuum switch from my '62 Dart this afternoon.
 
Im about to order the new leaf springs and put them on in a couple weeks. I love piddling and just being in the garage. What/how are you rebuilding the switch?
 
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