RPM calculators (1 to 1) automatics difference ?

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rustytoolss

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I was looking at Summits online calculators for gearing. I was looking at the RPM part. With a 3.23 gear @60 MPH & and 27.4" tire=2377 RPM. Thats at a 1 to 1 high gear ratio. But since a "stock convertered automatic is not as effecient as a manual and never quite engages a true 1 to 1. Is there much difference from a stock converted automatic and a manual trans RPM at 1 to 1 ? splitting hairs here I know. But just wondering ????
Asking about older automatics without Lockup converters, to be clear.
 
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Keep looking for calculators. I recall seeing one that figures in the automatic losses but cant find it. It might have been a speedometer calculator
 
That's what I have always seen (that 5% is the accepted average)
Think about the horrid loose converter(s) the aftermarket produce ,and people buy it on faith, it's quality product.
Just a reminder. ..
 
When I was researching mine, it was about 400 RPM at 70 MPH with my combo. I didn't want to give it up so I put a lockup converter in mine.
2400 RPM at 70 MPH with 28" tires and 3:71/1 rear differential.
 
They slip both ways.
I have had cars that motored at two or perhaps three hundred under zero slip. I guess it all depends on how much torque the engine makes, and how much the chassis requires to be motored, and the convertor's efficiency.
 
Calculate GEAR, RPM, MPH, TIRE DIAMETER

this calculator has 5% converter slip as its default

Thanks for posting that link. Just helped me figure out what I want to do with my gears. I do a lot of highway driving. I'm currently at 3100rpm at 70 with a 25.5" tire and 3.23's
Was thinking of looking for a 2.94 gearset, but that would only drop it to 2848rpm.
Turns out I already have a centerchunk with 2.76's in it. That would bring me to 2674rpm at 70. Think that's what i'll go with and see how I like it for a while.
 
They slip both ways.
I have had cars that motored at two or perhaps three hundred under zero slip. I guess it all depends on how much torque the engine makes, and how much the chassis requires to be motored, and the convertor's efficiency.
Explain what you mean by "2 or 3 hundred under zero slip". Did you mean 2-3 more RPM than 1to1 zero slip. Don't see how you can gain lower RPM than 1to1 without overdrive. Confused ?
My vehicle weighs 3000lbs and has a low powered stock engine, just to add that information. Maybe 180HP.
 
Explain what you mean by "2 or 3 hundred under zero slip". Did you mean 2-3 more RPM than 1to1 zero slip. Don't see how you can gain lower RPM than 1to1 without overdrive. Confused ?
My vehicle weighs 3000lbs and has a low powered stock engine, just to add that information. Maybe 180HP.
Sorry
I have had a few non-lock up automatics in life, that by calculation should have been cruising at a certain rpm, yet the tach indicated a couple of hundred less. When I would stand on the brakes and feed it gas to maintain the same speed, then the Rs would climb to a couple of hundred higher than the calculated Zero-Slip.
I was very confused the first time I thought about it. But Hey, it's a fluid coupling. I guess it can slip in both directions.
 
Sorry
I have had a few non-lock up automatics in life, that by calculation should have been cruising at a certain rpm, yet the tach indicated a couple of hundred less. When I would stand on the brakes and feed it gas to maintain the same speed, then the Rs would climb to a couple of hundred higher than the calculated Zero-Slip.
I was very confused the first time I thought about it. But Hey, it's a fluid coupling. I guess it can slip in both directions.

Or could it have been an incorrect tach reading?
 
Or could it have been an incorrect tach reading?
Sure it could, but since it's A minus B, as opposed to absolute numbers, it goes out in the bath water

Say you had 3.23s and 27" tires. Zero-slip at 30mph in drive would math out to 1204 rpm. Now say you had a 1969 hi-torque 318, or a maybe a 5.2 Magnum. So then, say you are cruising on level ground. Now what rpm might you expect on the tach? Well firstly that rpm is well below stall, and secondly, the teener is well be low it's torque-peak; so the tach could be saying anything, well, not anything exactly,lol.
Let's go to 45mph. Zero-slip maths to 1806. And the TC stall is about 1750. So now the teener is working a bit, and still below it's max efficiency, so I would expect the Rs to be closer to 1806, but perhaps a little higher.
Finally, lets move up to 60 mph. Now zero-slip would be 2408. This is about where the teener makes peak-torque , and she is well past the TC stall. The teener is now loafing, cuz she has very little work to do, just pushing a bit of wind. This is the times I have seen the tach lower than zero-slip. But if I step out to pass, the tach pops up right away, to greater than zero-slip. At 5% slip I might expect the tach to pop up 120 rpm, with throttle application. But if I now back out of the throttle, the Rs might fall 300 to 400 from that 2520, to say 2170, yet still at 60mph. That's a negative slip number of 10% from 2408, the zero-slip number.
The 318, cruising at peak-torque like this, could put the tach anywhere between these numbers depending on the throttle position, yet always at 60mph.
Say she is climbing a steep hill; the tach could be at the max of 2520. Or say she is going downhill at reduced throttle; it could be on the minimum of 2170, or possibly even less.
Say you kept the tach on the zero-slip number, and just let the car accelerate until it stops accelerating.What would the speed be? Who knows,lol. At under 60mph on hard level ground, I doubt you would ever find it. I imagine there would be a speed somewhere were she would find a zero-slip equivalent, but I suspect it would be higher than 60mph. I've never looked for it. I just found it interesting, and worth noting.
 
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