RV need help Chevrolet forum was a waste of time....

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williaml

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Hello all I have a 1965 Dodge Dart and have received a lot of great help here from a lot of people. I cannot say the same on a Chevrolet website. I posted a query and 145 people looked and no one answered. I thought maybe someone here in the Mopar forum might be able to help. Here is the issue. I bought a RV a 2004 Chevrolet engine on a 2005 camper chasis. The engine only has 4300 miles that's right only 4300 miles on it. I test drove the unit around the block and there were no issues. As soon as I took it on the highway and accelerated to 35 mph the check engine light came on. Well my heart fell right out of my chest. I called the seller and they indicated the light has never come on before. The camper being 8 years old and having only4300 miles on it I felt pretty confident all would be okay. I stopped for gas and yes there was a leak at the filler neck tube. I thought that might have been the problem so I replaced that hose and gas cap. My friend lent me his scanner the scanner indicated PO307 I know that means a miss. I cleared the code and went for fresh gas. No problems at idle when I put the RV in drive the Check engine light came back on. I stopped and bought some fuel addivitve to clean the injectors. Fill it up with fresh gas reset the code again and drove home at speeds of 60 -65 mph for 5-6 miles the light didn't come back on. Going out on Labor day weekend got 6 miles down the road the check engine light came back on again. I didn't notice a loss of power or the rv stumbeling or such. I read the code and the code came up as PO300 & PO307. I'm changing the plugs and fuel filter today anything else anyone can think of.... I'm sick thinking I have to take it in for a mechanic to fix it....Everyone here have always been so nice. Thanks for reading and any advice is always appreciated...

Regards
 
I can't help diagnosing the trouble, but a check engine light is not a sign of catastrophic problems, so don't panic.
Wait till a GM tech answers. There's a few here.

George
 
Put a piece of tape over the check light ,problem solved.
Some one here will know, but I do not.
Darryl
Those Chevy guys are not very nice to you.
 
If it continues to throw the misfire code you may want replace the
Pre-catalytic oxygen sensor
 
A Mopar site Trying to help a Chevy out, Now that is a class act.
Way to go cudascott!
Thanks
Darryl
 
Its a number 7 cyl misfire. If it has individual coil packs pull the battery cable switch 5 and 7 coils and see if code comes back 0305. if so bad coil.
 
And if it's not a coil pack chk that plug wire.
Also some of the HEI systems will blow a hole through the rotor and jump to the rotor shaft for a ground. (Even intermitantly on one cylinder)

More info would be good.

What motor
What ign system
individual injectors, or throttle body?

That kind of info.
 
Thank you all..it is a 6.0 engine, ignition system ? it has coils over each plug or so it appears to. It is a 2004 engine with 4300 miles.....I can't say thanks enough. I'm at work right now so if my naswers are a little vague that is the reason.... I'm changing the fuel filter and plugs today to see if it helps. The light doesnt come on all the time it seems like if there is a strain going up a hill, accelerating but then again I drove it hoem as my post says 5 -6 miles going 60 -65 no light.
 
Sounds like one of the injectors might be taking a dump or need to be cleaned by the mechanic.
 
Again as stated before a ck engine light is not the end of the world. I'll bet it is a coil, plug wire or plug.
 
O2 sensor. I would bet on it Just replaced the one on my work van. No more check engine light.
 
p0300 = random cylinder misfire
p0307 = misfire cylinder #7

It's not going to be an O2 sensor. The 6.0L has a "coil near plug" system in that the individual coils are mounted on the valve covers with a short wire to the plug.

As daredevil said swap the coils with an adjacent cylinder and see if the code moves to that cylinder, if it doesn't swap the wire, the plug and lastly the injector. If it never changes what cylinder it sets the misfire code for then you may have some slight coolant intrusion into that cylinder. But that would be the last thing I would worry about.
 
p0300 = random cylinder misfire
p0307 = misfire cylinder #7

It's not going to be an O2 sensor. The 6.0L has a "coil near plug" system in that the individual coils are mounted on the valve covers with a short wire to the plug.

As daredevil said swap the coils with an adjacent cylinder and see if the code moves to that cylinder, if it doesn't swap the wire, the plug and lastly the injector. If it never changes what cylinder it sets the misfire code for then you may have some slight coolant intrusion into that cylinder. But that would be the last thing I would worry about.

do this^^ if the problem moves then you know you need parts, don't buy a bunch of new parts because it will end up being something stuipidly simple

also a check engine light doesn't mean your engine is going to take a crap, its just telling you its not working to par so it needs to be fixed

you can clear codes without a scan tool; simply remove a battery cable for a couple minutes and put it back on, will erase stored codes
 
With that few miles I would bet money the injectors are gummed up
 
My shade tree learned something to night- move a coil pack around. Cool.
I was going to answer- some of those chebbys have an o-2 before and after sensor=4 of them. If the first are good, gut the back give wrong reading to puter- converter clogged.

Move the packs first.
 
Thanks to all. It is so diffucult to get at the engine to just swap coil pack. So I changed out the spark plug and coil pack on cylinder 7. I will try to get it out on the road and see if that clears it up. Does anyone recommend a fuel injector cleaner I put in Gumout or something to that effect.
Thanks to all
 
Thanks to all. It is so diffucult to get at the engine to just swap coil pack. So I changed out the spark plug and coil pack on cylinder 7. I will try to get it out on the road and see if that clears it up. Does anyone recommend a fuel injector cleaner I put in Gumout or something to that effect.
Thanks to all


I wouldn't once you start using injector cleaner you always have to use it, sort of like a diesel and starting fluid...
 
A friend had a misfire issue on his pickup and after beating his brains out, he brought it over to me. This was a Toyota pickup but a computer gas engine is a computer gas engine. Anyway, he told me he changed the plugs and the computer started throwing misfire codes about a month later and would stall when hitting big puddles (he's a 4wd freak like me).

First thing I did was pull every coil pack, wire, resistor cap and then the plug and carefully inspect. On #4 I found that the wire was pulled slightly out of the plug cap and the hot firing electronic ignition blew a hole through the resistor plug cap and was arcing to the inside of the valve cover (hemi style plug in center of head engine). He was about to blow 500 bucks on new injectors. New cap and wire and he was rolling, no issues in 6 months. BTW, it took about 20 minutes of running for the computer to get it's **** together after the repair was made, even though the CE light was off.

Take it for what it's worth and I hope it helps.
 
6.0 Chevy motors in my experience have an issue with wiping cam lobes. I would go through your standard missfire diagnosis with coils and plugs and what not but if you continue to have missfire codes on cylinder 7 pull the valve cover and check valve acutation and see if cylinder 7 matches the other cylinders Lift wise at the valve tip. Also check for a rocker being cracked. I know it's low miles but there was a hardening issue on those cams. I've seen them go 100k miles no issues and I've seen them go in 300 miles. I'd be willing to bet the previous owner was completely aware of the issue and thats why they unloaded it.
 
We (work) had a a brand new 2004 Astro van, didnt have 3000 miles on it and when I floored it going up a hill, it would throw a "cylinder misfire" EVERY time. I always had the scan tool just erase it and never had an issue. "It just means that it detected a few misfires, not to worry.." said the GM shop we took it to. What a POS!
 
Someone mentioned clearing codes by disconnecting the batt cable, well capacitors hold a small voltage still...so u have to then touch the batt cable pos and neg together to discharge them...then it will clear if so..
 
That could also fry a fuze, relay, or computer.....

Plugs shouldnt throw a CE light. coil or plug boot are your most likely culprits. throwing parts at it however, will only cost you more money. Ive had to learn that lesson the hard way
 
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