SB Stroker - What Cooling System?

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KnuckleDuster

KnuckleDuster

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Tried two different 22" radiators, with a factory shroud and 7 blade clutch fan It's just not gonna do it. I have played with timing and A/F ratio, so lets just leave that out of the equation.

I am looking at options, could run a two row 26"
factory radiator with shroud and new fan clutch or go Champion 26" with their fans and shroud, or Champion (3-4 row) with late model fan/shroud.
I don't have cash to trial and error this, so what is working for you?
 
I run the 26" champion 3 row in my 408 with a 6-71 hampton blower, using the dual electric fans from a mercury cougar, no problems.
 
I installed a custom, 4-row, traditional core radiator from US Radiator. It's an old school brass style build, that looks stock and bolted right up to my '68 A-body with a stroked 360 Magnum in it. I don't have a shroud and am running a clutch type 5 blade fan that's from a stock 5.9 Magnum. It runs cool, and looks much better than an aluminum radiator in these old cars. They also offered an 11 blade fan, but it sounds like an airplane taking off.
 
Cools my little 9.75 to 1 318...195 max and never had it turn on the second speed yet but it has been a mild summer,will see how it does when we get in the 100's.
Here ya go:
Get cc374 radiator from jegs
The following from summit:
American Autowire Maxi Fuse Kits 500449
Dakota Digital Programmable Dual Fan Controllers PAC-2750
Dakota Digital Relays with Wiring Sockets RLY3
Read this:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=266073

I got another fan set up extra when I pulled mine out of the junkyard.
I got extra aluminum plate to bolt to radiator to mount electric fan.
I got plenty wire to wire it to the existing harness on the fans.
oh wondering if your flowkooler is the old version?
read this:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=307691
PM rumblefish360 and ask him about it....maybe worth pulling water pump to see...
Still think your radiator is too small.
Martin
Hey I like the us radiator setup,went to their site and 3 or 4 core option...maybe worth calling.
 
I run a stock type 3 core brass and copper radiator with Mopar Performance 5 blade fan and clutch. It cooled my built 340 and does equally well with the 500hp 408 I have in it now.
 
Just remember guys, 2 row ,3 row, 4 row.....That is all fine an dandy but there are different widths of cores in the aftermarket segment.....you could have a 2 core radiator with 1-1/2 inch cores and cool better than a 4 core with 1/2 cores.....this is where the saying always comes into play "The thicker the radiator the better the cooling"
 
Swapped in a freshly rodded and cleaned 26" 3-row OE brass and shroud. The guage is at 230°-235° on the street and highway and got to 245° when I got home and let it run for a minute.

???
Bad fan clutch?
Blocked water passage?
Inaccurate guage?

Timing is 18 initial, 38 total, all in by 2600.

Converter is TA Tight 10" rated at 3500 but with my 3.23 rear 75mph is 3200rpm.
I am running the trans lines through a plate cooler before the radiator.
I might say converter building heat but the 1700rpm Dacco did the same thing....WTF?
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Tried two different 22" radiators, with a factory shroud and 7 blade clutch fan It's just not gonna do it. I have played with timing and A/F ratio, so lets just leave that out of the equation.

I am looking at options, could run a two row 26"
factory radiator with shroud and new fan clutch or go Champion 26" with their fans and shroud, or Champion (3-4 row) with late model fan/shroud.
I don't have cash to trial and error this, so what is working for you?
Click to expand...

mines a bb but think about a 26 inch two row...1 inch tubes...with shroud and clutch fan. My 472 hemi stroker with 727 runs cool with this combo and a 160 stat....I like my stat to open soon so the cooling system can do its job

the two 1 inch rows cool better than any 4 row rad...my 2 cents.
 
I went from a 160° Murray stat to a 180° Robertshaw/Flowkooler hi flow before the radiator swapping , no change.
Also running a Flowkooler WP.
Don't think I'm running lean,lower hose is not collapsing either.
 
Careful with the 26" radiators from Champion. I've heard they are made taller now. That may cause issues? Has anyone bought and installed one lately? How'd it fit, height-wise?
 
bbrroowwnn said:
Inaccurate gauge would be my guess
Click to expand...
That's my next guess, gonna test the sender in boiling water, don't have the cash for an IR temp gun at the moment.
I wanted a bigger radiator anyway so I went ahead and put it in.
I would think a 3 row 26" would be plenty for this motor.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
That's my next guess, gonna test the sender in boiling water, don't have the cash for an IR temp gun at the moment.
I wanted a bigger radiator anyway so I went ahead and put it in.
I would think a 3 row 26" would be plenty for this motor.
Click to expand...

IR temp gun is around $30 at Harbor Freight.

IIRC, your radiator opening is only 22"

38 degrees of timing seems a lot for a 4" stroker motor. What is your cam specs and compression?

I'm running a comp XE274 cam, 9.7:1, quench, and 31 degrees of timing. 4 core champion, home made shroud, 15" 7 blade fan, jag fan clutch.
 
Its more than jus a 26" radiator....
U gotta count how many cores across... I had 4 diff 26"x18" 3 core radiators for same car...every one had diff amount of cores across
Then thoz fins that zig zag from the cores cool too... Tho more dence they are the better they cool
Then, u got the thickness of the cores... Most brass radiators run lil ones, mayb 1/2"
Most aluminum radiators run the bigger cores, like 7/8 or 1"

The more and the bigger the cores will not only pull more heat away, but also slows down water flow, so now its really coolin!!

Thats what i learned buyin 1500 bux in dam radiators... But its also jus my opinion! Lol
 
22 inch 3 core, 5/8 tubes, factory shroud with clutch fan, and it keeps my 408 very happy. I'd get a different gauge or borrow an IR gun from someone.
 
Made some progress, swapped to different pulleys with a smaller WP pulley and bled the cooling system with a big help from TXDart!
He came up 40 miles and trailered the Duster to his shop. We put his emissions sniffer on the radiator neck and got ZERO hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide, ruling out a head gasket. He also has a killer funnel bleeder system and we got a bunch of air out of the block.

So far we had it down to a peak of 215° and it's steady about 210, down from 230-245°
It was a cool 77° when tested last night, though.
Backed timing down to 34° total and will try it again this afternoon in the heat.

 
Spent about $20 at Home Depot on some rubber pipe insulation and heavy duty outdoor 2-sided mounting tape.

I had a 1/2" gap between radiator and shroud. This stuff is a cut tube with adhesive with a peel off backing. Slipped it over the top and bottom edges of the shroud, peeled off the backing, and it's not going anywhere.








Then I used a slightly larger diameter insulation to seal the hood to the radiator support. The adhesive on the insulation wasn't enough to hold up to the heat so I used the mounting tape to secure it to the hood.



This brought my coolant temp down 15° on a 92° day.

Thanks to crackedback for emphasizing how important it is to seal off the topside of the radiator. My car can now go anywhere in the Texas heat without worrying about getting stuck in traffic or at a long light. I took it out on the highway and then sat for 10 minutes idling in gear and it never went over 200° .


Now I can get back to tuning!
 
autoxcuda said:
IR temp gun is around $30 at Harbor Freight.

IIRC, your radiator opening is only 22"

38 degrees of timing seems a lot for a 4" stroker motor. What is your cam specs and compression?

I'm running a comp XE274 cam, 9.7:1, quench, and 31 degrees of timing. 4 core champion, home made shroud, 15" 7 blade fan, jag fan clutch.
Click to expand...

Sorry autoxcuda...I overlooked these questions.

Comp XE285HL, 10.1:1 SCR, 63cc Edelbrocks, .039 Felpro 1008's, 20cc dish Wiseco Pro True pistons .007 down.
26" 3 row OE style brass radiator with factory shroud.
Still playing with initial and final before I set the slots.
'215' 7 blade a body clutch fan and thermostatic clutch from a 90's Diplomat that is still nice and tight.
Yes the opening is 22" but in my opinion not worth cutting.
 
Glad to help out brother and it is great to see you follow thru to get her cooler.
Martin
 
Glad to see you getting the temps down. Many fail to realize how important it is to have properly directed airflow through the radiator.
 
I run a us radiator 26" Optima core and twin 12" spam fans. Cooling is not an issue. Stroker with ac. I'd back that timing off and open the radiator support.
 
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