She's A Slug..help!!!

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being he could have lied to me, i am only findingHypereutectic pistons in the size i have... but they're compressioni ratioo is 10.2:1...so i'm gonna guess it's right around 10:1....i know i can run on premium unleaded so..... ith all that being said..what am i looking at as hp rough est?
 
It seems like you know your stuff pretty well, why not try changing out the stuff yourself? It's not that hard to set the timing and tune the carb yourself. Even if that doesn't fix it, you could still try looking at the other stuff. Auto work really isn't that hard if you take your time to get to understand what you're fixing. Plus, you'll have the peace of mind that you did all the work so if something goes wrong, it'll be MUCH easier to find the cause.
 
Wilnutt: With all respect, you need to check all basics and get back to us. Don't post until you check at least the following:
-Point gap (if not applicable, check out and/or replace your electronic ign.)
-All aspects of timing. -Initial, total, vacuum advance, mech. advance, crank to cam, cam to dist.
-Is your secondary ignition system in good shape?
-Vacuum leaks. (Your small cam makes this a more viable possibility. I.E. Large cam problems minimized.)
-Carb pump shot and idle curcuit functionality (including idle mixture check for response.).
-Compression. Check w/ engine warm, plugs out and throttle held open.

Anything else, anyone? Some of these have been mentioned. You need to get organized and know what's what! Your other posts on this forum, as MOPE-kidD-3 said, indicate you have requisite knowledge. This frustrates me, as maybe it does others! You seem to know what to do. Go for it! Heck, with the money you've spent already, you could fly one of is in to check it out! (I drink Beck's ;-)
 
being he could have lied to me, i am only findingHypereutectic pistons in the size i have... but they're compressioni ratioo is 10.2:1...so i'm gonna guess it's right around 10:1....i know i can run on premium unleaded so..... ith all that being said..what am i looking at as hp rough est?


My .40 over 360 made 386 hp on a engine dyno back in 1994 & its built alot hotter than that. I would have to say with that carb, cam setup, a good set of "J" heads would have been ample. No need to spend the $$$ on the eddys.


With that mild of a cam im guessing 300 to 325 hp. With or without the eddy heads.

If I had spent as much cash as you did, I would haul my a$$ right over to the guy that built & ask him exactly what the hell he used in your motor. Dont beat around the bush with him, you deserve to know. I would also ask for the reciepts for the parts that he installed as well, if you havent already.

Something fishy going on....:angry7:
 
thanks guys..i know you all gettin per-terb, and i understand that completely..i'm just hopin maybe in teh alotted time i had to get all i could on here, i could get a list together of things to check...and that's what i've done...i'm going to go check these things out now..i only kept reitterating bc i wanna make sure i have every based covered...sorry for pissin some of u off...

thanks to all ;-)
 
I think I speak for everyone when I say your not pissn me off. Everyone here wants to help.

I just hate to see someone pay big bucks for an engine build, only to have the dusch bag that assembled it rip you off.

I would start with him & take a club if you have to.
 
I think I speak for everyone when I say your not pissn me off. Everyone here wants to help.

I just hate to see someone pay big bucks for an engine build, only to have the dusch bag that assembled it rip you off.

I would start with him & take a club if you have to.

I agree with Mac. Were here to help. Mechanics that do stuff like yours did to you is what ticks me off.

I was a mobile mechanic for 11 yrs. for Hyster forklifts and I saw some other guys doing stuff like this. Including some of the guys I worked with. Padding the bill is a favorite among some mechanics but not me. Be honest to customers and do your best and you'll reap the rewards far longer than being a crook cause that always catches up with you.

I'm off my soap box now thank you.:toothy10:
 
I'll have to add one bit of advise. First thing you need to do is chill. As said ... you have good parts, just a little miss-matched. You prolly can get it running decent without spending much more (check out all that has been stated, no doubt this will be much of your problem). Relax, what's done is done in regards to labor rip-off. Learn here and move on - tweak her as you can afford. See you at Garlits ?
 
Lift and duration don't match the specified RPM range, in my opinion. Also, its a fairly large cam, so unless you have a higher stall converter, its not going to be fun to drive. If the build was supposed to be mild, the cam is way off in terms of duration and lift.

ok this is what i got..i can't remember the compression ratio, but it's close to teh one above, i can run on premium fuel..here are the specs of head carb and cam

ENGINE: CHRYSLER 318-340-360 V8

CAM

RPM RANGE: 1500-6500

Duration at 0.006" Lift: Intake: 308° Exhaust: 318°
Duration at 0.050" Lift: Intake: 234° Exhaust: 244°
Lift at Cam: Intake: 0.325" Exhaust: 0.340"
Lift at Valve: Intake: 0.488" Exhaust: 0.510"
Timing at 0.050" lift: Open Close
Intake: 10° BTDC 44° ABDC
Exhaust: 59° BBDC 5° ATDC
Centerlines: Lobe Separation - 112° Intake Centerline - 107°

HEADS
Chamber Size Intake Port Size Valve Sizes (in/ex)
65cc 171cc 2.02"/1.60"

CARB
600CFM Electric choke




BTW..I have vacuum advance

I saw the other set of specs, they are a bit smaller than the 69 340Repro cam. I don't think you need much stall, so I'll agree on the timing and carb settings being a bit off. Also, a 600 CFM might feed a Chevy 350, but a decent 340 Mopar wants a 750. This doesn't sound logical, but I've seen it too many times.
 
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