Short problem small block

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Richie

Richie

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Hi everybody.

First let me tell you that all of the ignition is pei and new but the wiring is probably as old as the 69 Dart, It was working just fine though until I went to go start it a few months ago. Lots of head lights but just a click for the starter then the lights went out. I went out and played around with the battery cables and same thing. Lots of lights then when I try to start it..click then the lights are dead. The battery is good. It's a 318.
 
Is the battery fully charged? If yes, then check the wire connections at the starter solenoid. Use a jumper from the thin wire to the terminal with the big wire. If this makes it start, then check out/replace the ignition/key switch.
 
make sure your battery cables, starter and solenoid wires are clean and tight. make sure all your connections at the starter relay are clean and tight, make sure your GROUNDS are good. one of these is probably your culprit , if the battery is good
 
Could be in the ignition switch. A new switch was cheap for my 65 on rockauto. You re-use your key cylinder, and sounds like removing yours is no problem. There is a little tab you push in with a round wire, with the key in a certain position, then it pulls out. Sounds like your tab many be broken, maybe some gorilla tried to remove it wrong. You can get replacements (I did), but best as a set that matches your doors, or take to a locksmith to re-key.
 
Put a volt meter on the battery posts positioned where you can see it and try the switch. If the battery is bad the volts will drop like a hammer.

Playing around with the battery terminals isn't proper proceedure. The little battery terminal/post cleaning brush is worth every bit of the few bucks it costs.
While you have the terminals off for cleaning you could check the cables with a OHMs meter. Hope this helps
 
Like Red said

Do some tests, you can even find a problem like this (often) with just a test lamp

Handy to have TWO people for some of this.

"Rig" your meter or test lamp with clips / clip leads so you can hook it up "hands free."



1: Hook the meter/ lamp clip to battery block. "Stab" the probe into the NEGATIVE battery POST. The POST, NOT the cable clamp. Jumper the starter relay with a screwdriver, and see if the lamp lights If not, OK

(You jumper across the two largest exposed terminals, NOT the "push on terminals.")

mopar-53-54-55-56-57-58-59-imperial-starter-relay-new_170579962271.jpg


2 Hook the light/ meter clip on the big stud on the start relay, stab the other probe DIRECTLY onto the battery POSITIVE post. Again, jumper the start relay. No light is OK

3 Hook the meter/ lamp clip onto the battery block and clip the probe to the starter relay stud Jumper the relay.

A bright light, or meter reading over 10V is OK. It should crank. If it does, the problem is in the start relay, the ignition key/ wiring, or the neutral safety switch or wiring.

If you get a bright light and no crank, the problem is the cables from the relay to the starter, or the starter

IF you get a dim light or low meter voltage, this is where you need two people. Stab the probes of the meter/ lamp directly onto the POSTS of the battery, and jumper the start relay. A low voltage, dim bulb means the battery is low or bad. If the lamp is bright, meter reads at least 10V, then.........

Put one probe on the negative battery post CLAMP, the other probe on the positive CLAMP. Jumper the start relay. A low reading/ dim light means your battery connections are toast, go back to step 1, step 2 and retest. CLEAN the battery clamps and posts. The only proper way to do this is with a battery post cleaner:

2-BatteryPostCleaner.jpg


Hook the ground clip on the light/ meter to engine block, clip the probe to the big stud at the starter. Be careful, it's hot, a LOT of amperage. Jumper the start relay. If you hear the starter solenoid pull in and no crank, and get a bright light and at least 10V at the meter, the starter is bad

If not click from the solenoid, try jumpering RIGHT AT the starter, jumper across the two studs at the starter. If nothing, clip your meter/ light to the starter big stud, and monitor voltage / lamp brightness while jumpering the starter solenoid. If you get a bright light or at least 10V on the meter, the starter is bad.

Post back with results and we'll go from here.
 
If the battery is good and the lights initially come on but go out when you turn the switch to the "start" position, you probably have a bad connection in a main power circuit. Battery/starter cables are the most likely but also check the bulkhead plugs and starter relay connections.
 
Solved..It was the stupidest easiest thing. Just a bad connection at the battery. I must have farted around with it for 15 minutes taking it off and putting it back on again then my friend comes over with his little light tester and sees that's what's wrong, takes the cable off puts it on and vroom It starts right away. I'm buying a new set of cables. They are kind of grungie anyway.
 
Happy you found 'er. LOTS of us have made that mistake in times past.

One time I had a bad battery, bought a new one.

CLEANED the battery cables, but NOT the new battery posts. They "looked" fine

Put the new battery in and it acted JUST LIKE the old one. I just could not believe it.

Finally started to think, got out the test lamp, and there we were.

I was about 17-18 when I pulled that stunt.
 
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