Since interest was expressed....

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The DC

The DC

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I was asked about why I wanted to get dowel rods to put my valve cover back on, with the new gasket.

Well, I don't claim for this to be the best way to do it, but in thanks for the help I was recently given for my strange oil problem, I thought I'd share this technique, for whatever it is worth.

My father use to use thread to tie the gasket to the valve cover, but this didn't compensate enough for me for drift, even with the placement tabs provided in modern gaskets.

Replacing a cork gasket can sometimes be tricky, as it wants to creep out of place. Below is a pic of a valve over off and the place where the gasket needs to be replaced...

Below are two starting photos for those new to pulling off the valve cover, the underside and the block where the gasket is placed.
 

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After pulling off you bolts, go to the hardware store to find comparable size dowel rod and cut off sections into 2-3" pieces that are slightly thinner than the valve cover bolts.

Start placing those rods into the bolt sleeves, dropping them in loosely. They will serve as a guide to hold the gasket in place without leaving threading or other materials behind...

Next pic, gasket sitting loosely...


Next is first dowel placed in bolt sleeve...
 

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Situate each dowel in the respective bolt sleeve, retaining the gasket...

You can confirm against gasket creep with the tabs at the edge of the cork as you put the valve cover on.
 

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Now drop the cover over the dowels, leaving them in place...
 

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Remove each dowel, one at a time, replacing the removed placing dowel with the bolt. This prevents shift during the bolt placing.
 

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As each bolt is removed, hand tighten the bolt in place. The dowels have served to both hold the gasket in place and provided a guide to drop the valve cover in place onto the gasket, without threads that might drop into the valve or adhesives that you want to avoid.

Once all dowels are removed and bolts hand tightened, one at a time, you can ratchet on the cover, watching the over-tabs in the cork to confirm a good, tight, well-placed seating.

Sorry if this seemed too obvious, but peers seeing me do this liked the idea, so i thought I'd share.

Slainte and keep moparin'

The DC
 

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PS;

Oh!

Cost is less than $1 for the dowel, which can be dropped into a plastic bag for re-use as needed, for the cost conscious and conservation-minded readers.
 
I personally don't trust cork gaskets by themselves , I use some of the "Right Stuff" gasket sealer to seal and hold them in place


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quick question, why didn't you use a threaded rod that matched the pitch and thread of the valve cover bolts, chop em into tiny pieces, and double nut and insert them into the block and use nuts to secure the valve cover down that way while also preventing gasket drift?

I guess this is just a good way to prevent gasket drift without buying new hardware and its reusable and cheaper.
 
If that's what you want, just use valve cover studs and retain it with nuts. Seems like a LOT less trouble.
 
The old saying, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Whatever works for each individual...I can relate, I usually have my own way of doing things. Thanks for sharing your method.
 
PanGasket said:
quick question, why didn't you use a threaded rod that matched the pitch and thread of the valve cover bolts, chop em into tiny pieces, and double nut and insert them into the block and use nuts to secure the valve cover down that way while also preventing gasket drift?

I guess this is just a good way to prevent gasket drift without buying new hardware and its reusable and cheaper.
Click to expand...

Actually the dowel cost .62 and is reusable.

I also didn't have to hunt to match threading, the bolt in and out. This was quicker.
 
goldfish65 said:
The old saying, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Whatever works for each individual...I can relate, I usually have my own way of doing things. Thanks for sharing your method.
Click to expand...



:salute:
 
Im glad you found something that worked for you BUT you made so much extra work for yourself...

next time try and clean both the head and valve cover. then use hi-tack or RTV on the valve cover, then the CORK gasket. The hi tack is good after 5 minutes/ The RTV your going to want to install right away and then after just a finger tight or slight more just let it sit over night to cure. From there on both ways you can remove and install the valve cover (with gasket) many times. I am up close to a dozen on my 68.

If that still doesn't rub you right you can buy studs for a hardware store and blue locktite them in, then use nylocks and washers for a light tq.

good luck!
 
those lil tabs on the valve cover gasket get pulled into those Lil' slots cut in the valve cover, cleaning the valve cover and mating surface is a must..using a small bead of wheatherstrip adhesive to hold the gasket to the cover and a paper thin coat of silicone where it mates to the head works wonders.....hammer and dollie the valve cover back into shape where some fool overtightened the bolts works wonders :)
 
I usually do mine something like 805.......solid lifters so I want to be able to get the covers back off. Never remember the name, that soupy Permatex (red) tacky stuff. Clean the hell out of the VC, glue the cover to the gasket, and either screw the VC/ gasket to a scrap of plywood to dry, or put it on the engine carefully.

I always smear a light coat of oil on the engine side to help stop sticking.

Biggest reason for tin covers leaking? Dents in the mounting holes, and OVER tightening.
 
I wasn't knockin the idea at all. Thanks for sharin it. I've seen it done before. It just seems like studs would be easier.
 
Correcting/flattening the mating surface/plane of any sheet metal cover is a important step, especially at trans pans. Those pans are often bent by objects underneath the car.
Folks will see a leak and first thing they do is tighten bolts. That puts a inward distortion there which equals outward elsewhere in respect to a plane.
They'll drive a wedge like a screw driver in between the mating planes and pry to separate causing distortion also.
They went together very well on the assembly line because they were new and flat so that's the condition we need to get back to.
 
I've never seen anyone wrap a motor and fender in plastic for a valve cover job before.

Just OCD or....?
 
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