six pack carb help

-

67barracuda

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
651
Reaction score
77
Location
Jackson Michigan
OK, 340 with a six pack that wont run/idle below 1400 rpms and with the timing around 32 degrees. If I adjust the idle or lower the timing it quites. How do you adjust the idle screw in the bases and could it do this. It also seems to slowly increase the rpms as it is running. Should I disconnect the vac advance?
 
What is your base timing? I wont be much help, but I think someones gonna ask LOL.
Subscribed btw...
I wanna six pack
 
1400 rpms at 32 degree is my base to get it to start. I try to lower it, motor will stall out. I try adjusting idle screw while backing out timing, but motor still stalls.
 
The outboard carbs have idle mixture screws in the front of each base plate. The are hidden by lead seals if they are factory.

Mine were frozen and ended up breaking them trying to free them. I bought new base plates and set the idle mixture screws about 1.25 turns out. Idles like a dream using the center carb mixture screws for the fine tuning.
 
What's the history? Just rebuild it or did it run fine and then just lately started running rough? Change anything recently? Just buy it?

We need more history to help you diagnose this.
 
Is the distrib indexed correctly so the TDCC for #1 lines up to 0 timing mark. I had a similar problem and couldn't get engine to idle and found dist gear was one tooth off. Made the change and then could time it right and would idle good. Does it have the vacuum actuated throttle for secondary carbs ? Make sure the sec carb throttles are set closed at idle.
 
I'll check the distributor tomorrow.
Yes I have vacuum actuated throttle for secondary carbs and I disconnected the linkage to the carbs just to make sure they were close too try and get it to idle.
 
The outboard carbs have idle mixture screws in the front of each base plate. The are hidden by lead seals if they are factory.

Mine were frozen and ended up breaking them trying to free them. I bought new base plates and set the idle mixture screws about 1.25 turns out. Idles like a dream using the center carb mixture screws for the fine tuning.

I was just talking to the guy that I sold my '69 six pack Super Bee to earlier today. He said the exact same thing as rklein383. Apparently those leaded mixture screws on the outboard carbs were often incorrectly set when the carbs were new. He said it made a world of difference readjusting them on a few cars he's known. The behaviors were similar to the problems the OP stated.
 
Just adjusted the idle screws and checked the distributor. The screws seemed not to be adjusted the same. I'll start it and post video of it after morning gym workout.
Thanks to all for the help
 
Have you checked for a vacuum leak around the intake and carbs?

Maybe hook up a vacuum gauge and see what the reading is......
 
..:glasses7:
Then go to the liquor store and pick one up... LOL! :D

IF I BUY ENUF OFF THE ABOVE KIND, I WONT NEED THE BOTTOM KIND...IM SO FRICKIN GOOD LOOKIN WHEN IM DRUNK!!


or do lots of sit-ups and crunches.... feel the burn.... :rambo:
 
If you have electronic ignition, be sure and have a really good ground for the ignition module. No ground will cause all kind of problems that seem to be carb related but are not.
Rod
 
It tried the idle screw with only 1/8 turn out, car wouldn't run. Turned idle screws 2 turns out, car started and I got it to idle around 800 with 12 degrees of timing. The problem was it wouldn't rev up, it sputtered. Tried starting again after a few minutes, and it wouldn't because the plugs were wet.
Do you think the carbs need to be redone?
 
Should I plug the crankcase vent tube off the bottom of the center carb? I have seen them plugged and open, why? Is might be my problem as mine is open.
 
I had a problem that sounds like this. All new parts, turned out to be a vacuum leak in the choke pull off diaphragm. Brand spanking new right out of the box.
 
-
Back
Top