Slant Temperature

-

Deemo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
439
Reaction score
209
Location
Tennessee
I have the factory gauge on the dash showing way way hot. Then I have an aftermarket gauge on the passenger side plug of the block.... which would you trust and I think I have a cooling problem now. It’s only 85 today and the needle is pegged to the right on the dash and the manual gauge reads 195.

66 Val 170 slant six

Who makes a high flow pump and where do I get it?

FEC748F1-4E77-43EC-B17D-684A08F2181C.jpeg


6C075C22-DB60-49A4-99DB-C66FE24C0116.jpeg
 
Last edited:
What's your vehicle's history and when did this start? What temperature of thermostat do you have in it? Check the obvious first. Radiator cap, cooling system flush, etc. Check the weep hole at the water pump, you may be losing coolant pressure through it if the pump bearing/packing has worn out.
 
Never had overheating issue before. Has a 86 Dakota radiator in it that isn’t leaking. Thermostat is 190f. No leaks anywhere. I even added an overflow tank to it and it’s half full in the right front fender well. Put the engine In the car last year and has new fluid and thermostat. Fluids crystal clear green
 
The hottest point in the engine would be up front, just below the thermostat. Exactly where is the aftermarket gauge sender located? If it is in the same general area as the thermostat, I would suspect the factory gauge sender.
FYI, FlowKooler makes a water pump for the slant six, P/N 1678.
 
You do not need a so-called "high flow" water pump. You need to properly measure the coolant temperature to determine whether or not you have an actual issue, and if you do, you need to diagnose and repair it.
 
Correct. What are the other gauges doing? IIRC, the voltage limiting for the 66 and earlier models is handled by the fuel gauge. Use a brass tee if necessary, and install the sensor for the aftermarket gauge alongside the factory temp sensor. What about your fan and shroud set up? For all intents and purposes, 195 isn’t terribly hot, I think you more have a factory gauge problem than anything else. Did it always run at 190 degrees beforehand?
 
The sender or gauge is shot.

Does the fuel gauge read accurate?
Having a electrical short on the incoming side of the batt feed can throw ALL the gauges off. Sometimes they might recover.. but usually they need replaced or recalibrated.

I think it's just the sender, because that's the norm... but those old gauges ...
 
It always ran at about 180 on a hot day in the 90s. I never had the factory gauge go halfway. There’s a plug on the passenger side of the block that I removed and that’s where the aftermarket temp sensor is plugged into. Both gauges have never showed hot once. I checked coolant and it’s full in both reservoir and the radiator. I check fluid every other week I drive it and none is missing. No air. I’ll switch the gauge and then see, if still happening then I’ll switch sending units. All gauges read correctly as well and no radiator shroud. I’ll return with results from switching things out.

Reason for the high flow pump in my opinion is the water will sit in the block and radiator longer with a factory pump. Increasing the flow will move the fluid faster and also I want to daily drive the car. The engine came out of my 65 and it never overheated, never once got hot. Engine has about 30k on it. Just was wondering if there was an aftermarket high flow pump that was recommended for slants. I know it won’t fix the overheating issue alone. A new aluminum radiator is in the future with electric fans, just want to make one purchase and be done with it.
 
Don't need a high flow water pump, check if you radiator is dirty, put a 180 thermostat in it. Slant six s are the easiest motor to run cool, I always have the problem of getting it to get past 180 degrees. Mechanical gauges are best. I think your fine. Upgrading the fan is also a must.
 
I don't get scared until things start to crowd 220 degrees. I've had a slant six get up to 240 degrees before three separate times due to a disintegrating radiator, a broken fan belt, and a stuck thermostat before with no noticeable long term damage. I believe the Rotella 15W40 with a blue bottle of STP and Wix filters probably helped make a difference, though.
 
Slanty's ain't hot until the pistons lock up. Then refill with water and wait 10 minutes, and good to go again. As long as the oil remains oil, you can drive at least 10 miles,lol. I mean mine did. Your results may vary.
My 360 has run at 205 to 207 since 1999 or so
 
What is this obsession with a "high flow" water pump, to the degree of making up imaginary, baseless reasons why one would help? I guess if a "high flow" water pump will make your socks roll up and down and give you a happy feeling, go spend money on it. But stock water pumps have done an excellent job on Slant-6 engines for many decades—up to and including some very hairy race motors.

Once more: measure and diagnose rather than guessing and spitballing, unless the object of the game is to waste as much money and time as you possibly can and still not fix the problem.

Basics, dude: when does the car (appear to) run hot? Low-speed/stuck-in-traffic? That would be an airflow issue, like radiator fins clogged with bugs and dirt. High-speed/real-hot-day? That would be a waterflow issue, like radiator tubes clogged with corrosion and gunk and/or block mudded up past the frost plugs. Low and high speed? That would likely be a faulty radiator or faulty thermostat.

But before you get to that, the first step is to measure the coolant temperature, with a hand-held thermometer in the top tank of the radiator, with the engine running and the gauges claiming the engine's running too hot, to see if they're telling truth or lies.

And before you even get to that, maybe study up on how cooling systems work (and how they don't) with this 5-part article.
 
What is this obsession with a "high flow" water pump, to the degree of making up imaginary, baseless reasons why one would help? I guess if a "high flow" water pump will make your socks roll up and down and give you a happy feeling, go spend money on it. But stock water pumps have done an excellent job on Slant-6 engines for many decades—up to and including some very hairy race motors.

Once more: measure and diagnose rather than guessing and spitballing, unless the object of the game is to waste as much money and time as you possibly can and still not fix the problem.

Basics, dude: when does the car (appear to) run hot? Low-speed/stuck-in-traffic? That would be an airflow issue, like radiator fins clogged with bugs and dirt. High-speed/real-hot-day? That would be a waterflow issue, like radiator tubes clogged with corrosion and gunk and/or block mudded up past the frost plugs. Low and high speed? That would likely be a faulty radiator or faulty thermostat.

But before you get to that, the first step is to measure the coolant temperature, with a hand-held thermometer in the top tank of the radiator, with the engine running and the gauges claiming the engine's running too hot, to see if they're telling truth or lies.

And before you even get to that, maybe study up on how cooling systems work (and how they don't) with this 5-part article.

Dammit Dan, why would anybody want to diagnose something? That's too much like WORK.
 
Alright.

#1) Gas guage is now off by how much I don’t know. I had a half a tank four days ago.....been about 60 miles and still have a half a tank. That’s not correct because I know I should have less than that.

#2) Fluid is nice and green and clean.

#3) Fluid temp at the radiator is 228 degrees. Turned it off before it got hotter

The first part has to be electrical because my gas guage should be less. Guess I’ll go get a pump and thermostat since the pump is original from 65.

The sender or gauge is shot.

Does the fuel gauge read accurate?
Having a electrical short on the incoming side of the batt feed can throw ALL the gauges off. Sometimes they might recover.. but usually they need replaced or recalibrated.

I think it's just the sender, because that's the norm... but those old gauges ...

Would this be on the gauges themselves on the back or somewhere along the route to the tank/sending unit at thermostat housing?
 
No fuel in the filter. Nothing in the tank. Guage shows 1/2. Lol. I knew I had less gas . At least it’s in the driveway
 
@Deemo "228 and I shut it off before it got hotter" makes it look like you don't understand that the thermostat sets the engine's minimum operating temperature, not its maximum. But it's beginning to sound like gauge system issues (fuel and temp gauge both reading too high) are at least part of the problem here. First step would be a new instrument cluster voltage regulator. The smart one to buy is this one.
 
Dammit Dan, why would anybody want to diagnose something? That's too much like WORK.
Totally. »snaps gum« And like, the cooling system can be in perfect condition and the gauges can work fine, but if the ignition timing is late or the exhaust is restricted or the camshaft timing is wrong, the engine will run hot. Which is, like, totally not fair because it means diagnosis requires more than affirming that there's coolant and it's not leaking and it's green.
 
I have the factory gauge on the dash showing way way hot. Then I have an aftermarket gauge on the passenger side plug of the block.... which would you trust and I think I have a cooling problem now. It’s only 85 today and the needle is pegged to the right on the dash and the manual gauge reads 195.

66 Val 170 slant six

Who makes a high flow pump and where do I get it?

View attachment 1715339540

View attachment 1715339541
What size is the plug in the block. I'm wanting to put my after market temperature gauge there
 
I have a Flow Kooler pump for mine when I get it back from machine shop jail. will be my 2nd experience with them. Unsure if the 1st was an improvement or not that I used on a 318. It sure didnt hurt though. Hows your radiator?
 
Your water temp and gas gauges run off a dash-gauge regulator
The regulator is nothing but a set of mini points with one contact on a bi-metallic arm. As the electrons flow thru the arm, the arm heats up and breaks the circuit. As it cools, it re-establishes contact. It is designed to have a 50% duty cycle, so if it sees 12 volts , then it will regulate to 6 volts. But if it sees 14.5 volts, then it will read 50% of that which is 7.25 volts.
Ergo;
If the system voltage is too high, then BOTH gauges will read high. If the system voltage is low, then the gauges will read low.
In the pic of the gauges , the alternator needle is way over on the right, indicating a possible high charging rate, which can be measured as a high voltage at the battery.

Stabilize your charging system voltage, and your "overheating" problems will be cured.
 
-
Back
Top