[SOLD] Small block cam thrust plate bolt with oil hole

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duster360

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I am looking for a small block cam thrust plate bolt that has the oil hole in drilled through the center of oil it that helps oil the timing chain. I would like to get a few of these if possible. 1 would be good but 2 or 3 would be better so I would have some spares. They don't all have to come from the same member. PM me with what you have. Thanks in advance.
 
I got a blown up 340 that ill go check to see if that bolt is in it.
 
Just don't put the bolt in and use a dripper. Or just don't put the bolt in at all. The thrust plate holds the cam from the lifters pulling it back.

I never reuse the bolt it was a waist of time . None off the newer motors have them in. they all have drippers. The hole was to oil the chain. It gets better oil with no bolt.

The later magnums have chain tensioners.

actually two bolts are sufficient bottom left top right looking at the motor
 
Put the bolts in. Just drill the bolt, thats easy enough even for the novice. I even drill the tensioners for the extra bolt on the non magnum blocks. Best to have more support when dealing with the tensioner.
 
Put the bolts in. Just drill the bolt, thats easy enough even for the novice. I even drill the tensioners for the extra bolt on the non magnum blocks. Best to have more support when dealing with the tension er.


I have built a lot of motors and tore down just as many. The bolt is not needed. the factory decided that after many chain set failures. The hole in the bolt does not flow enough oil to lube the chain. That is why they eliminated the bolt and installed a dripper. It directs the oil to the middle of the inside of the chain.

From the cam spinning the lifters. The lifters keep pressure on the front side of the plate pulling back ..

Now if I was a vender and was selling these bolts I would tell you to use them also.
If you really want to assemble your motor the way they were I have plenty of factory bolts. Don't try and drill one unless you have a lathe. the hole needs to be dead center so the bolt don't break when tightened.
 
I too have built a few SBM, and I see a lot of them with noticeable wear on the BACK side of the trust plate. I choose to put all 3 or 4 bolts in the plate. But thats my choice.

I am a Vendor here, but im not selling a bolt with a hole in it to anyone, just trying to give MY opinion just like you. We(as in all of us) give our opinion and let the end user make his/her own choice.

Agree to Disagree here.
 
I too have built a few SBM, and I see a lot of them with noticeable wear on the BACK side of the trust plate. I choose to put all 3 or 4 bolts in the plate. But thats my choice.

I am a Vendor here, but im not selling a bolt with a hole in it to anyone, just trying to give MY opinion just like you. We(as in all of us) give our opinion and let the end user make his/her own choice.

Agree to Disagree here.

Your right it is up to the builder. but mopar did stop using them for a reason.

A roller motor has forward cam float so they rely on the plate. As tappet motors do not.

My motor is a roller motor I chose not to use one so my chain gets a good supply of oil. My sprockets are bought separate and my chain was a ordered to length. $$$$

Every motor has different line bore to cam tunnel measurement. and The same chain tight on one motor is loose on another. Our shop fits the chain to the motor. No tensioner needed.

I have around 500 miles on my roller motor at 8000 rpm shifts. Rev limit is 9000 . I have two bolts holding my plate. so far the cam is still behind the cover. as all my other motors

I will be taking the motor out soon for new lifters and rod bolts. I will check the plate bolts and the plate . But I always found chain heat is a greater concern then the plate wear. The slippery the chain is. The less the motor has to pull under a hard load.

A cam tensioner does not hold the timing exact on decellaration or load change. That is when the valves usually touch the pistons. Due to cam timing change and piston rock.

Ask Ryan at shady dell he paid for one of my motors from a slight touch at 7200.

I learned the hard way chain slack causes a.lot of damage. and gear drives rob to much torque from a little LA motor. Light weight sprockets and precision chain. and keep it oiled is the way to go.

Nothing comes out of that little bolt hole when the motor is moving forward. and the sling-er loses its oil also. Can't depend on that except for just adding more reciprocating weight.

I am just giving some friendly info that it cost me a lot to learn in 40 years of singing small blocks to there limit . I started with W2 motors in the 70's and scattered many learning.

You can have the best of the best in parts and skip one little thing and you start over with a thinner wallet.

I sing a 12-1 motor on pump gas on the street and my body is still dent free from not oiling the tires. One reason my exhaust dumps under the center of the car as close to the rear housing as I can . Is because I have oiled down a lot of slicks learning. And flattened the sides of many cars.

I am not telling you all what to do .Or telling you you are wrong . I am Only telling you what I've learned The hard way.
 

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Oh Yeah for those who need the holed cam bolts they are"Free" just pay the postage. $1.00 As many as you all need. I'll go eat at Red Lobster.
 
Well here is the easiest way to show you what I am talking about.

Pic 1 is the front an back of the old plates and the way they were bolted on 4 bolts . The bolt with a hole no rear oil slot on back of plate for the cam. NO GOOD

Pic 2 Is the latest from mopar to try and keep their junk chains tight through warrantee Two bolts. not even a place for the lower bolt and drilled a hole in the oil galley cover. Two bolts held in place and the tensioner kept chain tight as it stretched. Only to prolong the junk to fail NO GOOD

Pic 3 is the best method. The Method used by mopar in the early 90's when they went to the cheaper chains and they were giving their junk chains more oil. they couldn't make perfume out of ****. But They did oil their junk chain better. Also note the oil slot on the rear of the plate to keep oil on the plate for the roller cam riding on it now because the cam was not being pulled rearward by the tappet lifters . Still only two bolts held it in place.

Chevy motors do not even have a cam plate holding the cam in. It is held in place by the rotating lifters.. Once you remove the Dist. and lifters you can pull the cam out with the top gear on it. Their roller cam motors get a button on the cam that rides on the tin cover to hold it rearward.


So on mopar you really don't even need the plate except to cover the galley holes and make make up the difference they didn't design in the block.

The 3rd pic is the way to do all small blocks. It oils the chain the best . You do not want the tension-er unless you go super cheap on the chain.

But definitely pic one is a No No as far as needing the 4 bolts .That bolt with the hole in will ruin the chain just as it did the one you took off. That hole only gets oil running out of the top of the motor with gravity.

So,Find a dripper and use the upper right and lower left bolt as pictured. You will thank me for this info. Now if you still want those bolts with the holes in you all are asking for just send the money so I can go eat while your all screwing your self. I can have the guys drill these by the hundereds. After I sell the ones I never put back in for 20 yr's.

The last pic the slinger throw in the garbage for performance motors. Get a 90's or billet timing cover .
 

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I also wanted to mention when I install our billet timing cover I will be eliminating the cam plate. It will be done like a small block GM. With a teflon cam button .The front cam bearing will oil the chain.

Grumpy Jenkins used a standard chain and a aluminum and nylon stock top gear to eliminate reciprocating weight. Little things add up on little motors. I know mine is a elephant tamer.
 
I was asked for drippers . With a tin snips and a drill you can make them. Just remember to make the tab to lock it into the other lower bolt hole and the point is bent to oil the middle of the inside of the chain. And by the way you are all welcome. Steve
 
I was asked for drippers . With a tin snips and a drill you can make them. Just remember to make the tab to lock the into the other lower bolt hole and the point is bent to oil the middle of the inside of the chain. And by the way you are all welcome. Steve


I would eliminate the tab and use another bolt hole or the "home made dripper"
 
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