so i "fixed" my car and...

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duster wonder

duster wonder

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ok ok, finally hooked up my pressure lever for the trans. (904)

had to pop up the dizzy to get to a bolt, and now no spark.:sign3:

put the distributor right back at the mark i made, and nothing. pulled off the vacumn hose to do some timin, nothin. put back on the vacumn hose and fired right up. wait what??

timed it for the heck of it, right at 14 idle and 34-5 top timing. (vacumn on yeah yeah i know)

threw on the air cleaner, nothing. unhooked the vacum to do some more timing visuals, nothing. pulled a plug to find no spark. unhooked the coil plug (from dizzy) and that sparks all over. distributor problem?

whats goin on? bought a 40 buck distributor and ill throw it on tomorow (havnt bought it yet) but is there somethin i need to check first? replaced the blue box last summer
 
Sounds like a wire has nearly all of its strands broken in your ignition system. Check the wire to the distributor first by wiggling it while engine is running. Wiggle the wires to the coil and then the wires to each of the other ignition parts until the engine dies. Bingo!
 
ohmed the pigtails on my dizzy, found nothin. throw a new distributor on there tomorrow morning
 
Your post is a little difficult to follow


"What I get?" is that you have spark out of the coil...........

so why.......are you? replacing? the distributor?

Make absolutely certain the ECU is grounded.

Remove the dist. connector, plug just one terminal in so you can "swivel" the connector, and twist back/ forth to scrub the terminal clean. Repeat for the second terminal.

What KIND of spark do you have out of the coil? You checking the spark with the coil wire or directly out of the coil?

You checking this while cranking WITH THE KEY or jumpering the starter relay? This sets up different voltage conditions at the ignition.................

Using the key, the ballast bypass circuit is in effect (unless there's a problem) and the coil gets more voltage which SHOULD make hotter spark

Jumpering the start relay, means the coil gets lower voltage, and this method can hide a problem with the above bypass circuit

What does the cap / rotor look like? Any chance that you got the cap sideways and damaged the rotor? Grime? Wet? Cracked?

What do the plugs look like?
 
no spark at any plugs, but wire coming from coil sparks all nice (tells me the dizzy is bein weird, and not a ecu problem)

.5 volts leading to dizzy, but dizzy pig tails do not ohm out sayin its the pickup coil that is bad.(i ohmed a old rusty distrubutor that is laying around it ohmed at 500 on 2k setting.) cap and rotor are clean, but god knows how long that distributor has ben in there, came with the car two years ago

also when it did run, when i pulled the vacumn advance off it shut off instantly (should at least run not just insta kill)

before all this when my motor would get hot after driving around awhile it would burp n sputter a bit at stop signs. not a rich sounding sputter, but like it was forgetting to fire a few cylinders, so my dizzy has ben a little weird to begin with.
 
"all nice" is not a technical description.

The pickup, reluctor, and ECU are all GOOD if you have "spark from the coil."

You can NOT have good spark at the coil and have a bad distributor pickup

This does NOT mean that the cap and rotor are doing their job

or that the plugs aren't fouled

or that you have ENOUGH spark, which could be anything from a bad coil wire, bad coil, or fouled plugs or dirty/ wet / cracked cap/ rotor.
 
threw on a new dizzy n it fired right up. goofed with the timing, i need to slow the advance down as its goin from 14 to 38. cap n rotor were not the problem

feels like a new motor, wow what a difference. idles like a cat at a stop light, eliminated my burping problem. just need to goof with my "kickdown" a bit.

there was also resistance on the pigtail wires, .5 on 2k setting or something like that. old distributor had no resistance
 
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