solo racing an early A

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TheCraigMachine

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Hey y'all. I have a 65 valiant that I want to set up for autocross/solo racing. The best I can figure right now is that I will be competeing in the "street prepared" class with our local SCCA chapter. I need some pointers in which mods will be best to go with based on my current setup.

My current setup is as follows:
Built 318 (300-350 hp guessimate)
904 auto, column shifted
3.23 rear gear
8 3/4 B-body rear axle, NOT narrowed.
10" discs front, 10x2.5" drums out back, non-power
14" steel wheels wearing 215/75s
Factory 26:1 manual steering
Rebuilt front suspension, urethane bushings
Magnumforce upper control arms, aligned with 5.5 degrees of positive caster!
1" t-bars (worth every penny btw)
New heavy duty leaf springs out back, stock height
NO sway bars installed
KYB shocks up front, parts store cheapies out back
Stock interior, bench seats, no seatbelts (yet)

So I'm open to all suggestions to upgrade and build upon what I've got now to make this thing compete with the hondas and miatas that are dominating the tracks around here.
 
Sway bars, brake upgrades, sticky tires and practice, practice, practice!

It also helps when someone from the CP group does the cone layout - more use of the HP! It's hard to compete with the Miatas and Hondas on an average auto-x course, trying to move all of your weight around nimbly is always an adventure!

OH..and most importantly - SEAT BELTS! Its hard to drive through the twisties with your butt sliding 5 foot side to side...the steering wheel is to turn the car, not something to hang onto!
 
You'll be competing in Street Prepared, but it will take quite a bit more to be competitive. The last car I attempted to run Solo II in was a Triumph TR6. Since I had fitted 16" rims, it was no longer legal in stock. If you just want to run for fun, then go out and scuff some tires! Generally there are "novice" classes for people who just want to have fun or learn in a non-conforming car.

So if your car is basically as you describe it, go run. It's weak points will become apparent soon enough. But if I had to guess, here's what you'll discover. You'll want A LOT faster steering, 16:1 is about your only choice for early A, low gear set for your 904, sway bars, sure grip rear, and since wheel diameter and tire selection is more or less open, something like a 225/45-17 would make a lot more sense. 5.5 degrees of positive caster is way overkill for Solo speeds. More brakes down the road...

There are some really experienced autocrossers on here who have posted their setups. My best advice would be to take theirs.
 
You'll be competing in Street Prepared, but it will take quite a bit more to be competitive. The last car I attempted to run Solo II in was a Triumph TR6. Since I had fitted 16" rims, it was no longer legal in stock. If you just want to run for fun, then go out and scuff some tires! Generally there are "novice" classes for people who just want to have fun or learn in a non-conforming car.

So if your car is basically as you describe it, go run. It's weak points will become apparent soon enough. But if I had to guess, here's what you'll discover. You'll want A LOT faster steering, 16:1 is about your only choice for early A, low gear set for your 904, sway bars, sure grip rear, and since wheel diameter and tire selection is more or less open, something like a 225/45-17 would make a lot more sense. 5.5 degrees of positive caster is way overkill for Solo speeds. More brakes down the road...

This is the type of answers im looking for in this project. I already know the basics of what I need (sway bars, brakes, steering) but im more interested in the specifics of what I need, like sway bar diameters, what type of brakes to run, and wheel/tire sizes.

I hadnt thought about the low gear set for the 904. What advantage would that have in a solo racing? Id figure that Id never get out of first gear in the course, so if I had a deeper first gear ratio, that would require a shift between turns, and that seems as if that would be detremental to this type of racing(?)

Any recommendations on what type of steering to use (flaming river manual, Borgeson power, Chrysler power)?
 
OH..and most importantly - SEAT BELTS! Its hard to drive through the twisties with your butt sliding 5 foot side to side...the steering wheel is to turn the car, not something to hang onto!

Its funny you mention this. The other day I went to go play in a vacant parking lot, and when I took a hard left turn I literally had the wheel ripped from my hands and was thrown to the passenger side of the car. Im sure it was a sight to see me scramble for the wheel and brake pedal as my car coasted unguided toward the curb. If I had a dash cam in the car Id be on Funniest Home Videos winning a hundred thousand dollars by now!
 
If you have not I would reccomend bracing your lower control arms. All along the bottom and the area where the torsion bar adjuster is. They have a tendency to spread open there.
 
You're welcome to check out my webpages to see what I and Dave Mapes have done. Both of our websites are a bit dated, but we're probably the most active SCCA autocrossers on the east coast in a-bodies.

A lot of your success in class will depend on your local competition. ESP will potentially put you against some pretty well developed later GM suspensions. But the game is heavily dependent on the driver - and the drivers ability with car they are driving.

I've actually had my some of my best success on the small tight lot at Boeing. That's proof that a portion of it is mental because I've been running in Street Mod which had all sorts of cars large and small.

Right now its hard to know where any of the classes are going as they attempt to completely rework 'stock' into 'street'. SP is a reasonably place to start, but also see if a local 'street tire class' is an option. If you're just running for fun, C Prepared is always a safe bet. You'll just be very lightly 'Prepared' relative to the rules.

OK. My opinion on prep for you and your car:
Build aerobics, arm strength and hydrate smart.
*Built 318 In SM or Prepared it is whatever you want, in SP this is a stock 273/318/340 with whatever intake, carb and headers you want. I'm sure its simply from a cop car
*904 auto, column shifted Might be an issue with the front pump after some abuse. e-mail or PM because I don't recall the details. Mild shift kit like Turbo-Action's is useful in reducing wear and crisping up the shifts on courses that requre 2nd. I do not like to manually shift on course - especially with the column shifter.
*3.23 rear gear Good enough unless this is a dedicated competition car. Every course is different.
*8 3/4 B-body rear axle, NOT narrowed. Probably OK, just watch the tire clearance to fenders
*10" discs front, 10x2.5" drums out back, non-power Good base. Fine tune with choice of lining materials, wheel cylinders and prop valve if needed.
*14" steel wheels wearing 215/75s OK for your first play day or two as this will teach you patience and smoothness! If these are nice new tires with big blocks then maybe a set of used 215/70s will save those new tires for what you intended them for. A used set of aluminum rims in 14x6 minimum and 15x7 preferably will be useful for mounting some fun tires on. Steel starts getting heavy as the wheels get bigger, but tire choices get better. Tires get heavier too (and the investment gets high so I don't push anyone to start there)
*Factory 26:1 manual steering Might be the one item that will frustrate you when autocrossing
*Rebuilt front suspension, urethane bushings OK
*Magnumforce upper control arms, aligned with 5.5 degrees of positive caster! This might snap that steering wheel back in your hand! I don't think this is a great match to the tires, but with sitckier tire will OK
*1" t-bars (worth every penny btw) Good.
*New heavy duty leaf springs out back, stock height If it wraps up or hops with sticky tires add more clamps to the front half of the spring.
* NO sway bars installed Second most likely item that might frustrate you. Get a front sway bar. Size depends a bit on what tire you will be using. Stickier tire = more grip = more roll and therefore more roll resistance will be wanted. That said, anything is better than nothing unless you are rock crawling or mudding. So get something, but just up front to start with.
*KYB shocks up front, parts store cheapies out back Gotta start somewhere. If you get serious you'll replace these and this is another area that can get very expensive, so don't rush in here.
*Stock interior, bench seats, no seatbelts (yet) As stated by others - good lap belts are a must. Shoulder belt - some don't even like 'em for autocrossing. A good bucket is help, but I've autocrossed on benches. Wedge your left foot in the corner and butt in the seat. See number one suggestion. :)


The slow steering hurts most in the slaloms. In all cases start turning the wheel early and look ahead, not at the cone your passing but where you want the car to go. If the front wheels don't bite, its because you were braking too late and too hard. Slow down and they will miraculouly turn the car. If you get out of shape or off line, slow down and get back on line. This is the hard stuff; the self discipline.
 
Install sway bars, power brakes and 16" wheels

Great advice above too^ couple details in there I never thought of. As far as sliding across the bench, I've done that a couple times! Lol had an old chevy s10 with a vinyl bench. Yeah, not so useful when turning quickly
 
Thanks Mattax. That is some very good advice. I won't be able to talk to the SCCA guys until Aug 31. I figured id go check it out and get the tech inspector to look over my car and address the basics before I start getting into the nitty gritty.
 
Glad to help. Aug 31 is the next Solo? It's OK to go and check it out, but don't expect much advice from tech. The purpose of tech is primarily safety, and secondary (sometimes) classing. Of course this varies from region to region, but this is the general nature of it.

Tech will check the following (or should).
- Shake the wheels for loose bearing adjustment or other obvious issues.
- Throttle return operates well
- Battery secure
- No loose items (bolted down spare tire usually OK, I always run with one for balance)
- Brake pedal is hard.
- Number and class legible. (lots of options here, painters tape popular nowadays for those who haven't bought magnetic material. Shoe polish was the old way for newbies but hard to read)
- Helmet is up to current requirements (if using your own).
- Seat belt (they might not check at tech but they won't let you on course if your not wearing one!)
- No bad leaks. I and many others have run without coolant overflow tanks. They probably won't check because its been over 30 years since cars didn't have 'em. However you really should (I do now).

If you can afford the time and the cost, consider showing up with the intention of driving. Cost has gone up because SCCA now requires at least a temporary membership. Because of that, I don't push people to 'just try it' the way I used to. Depending on state laws and local club rules, you may be allowed to ride as a passenger if you are interested.

Classing is usually left to the driver although the organizers will usually try to help if you're unsure.
 
I enjoy SCCA,but it also sucks because generally because you only get a few runs. if you really want to run your car,go on American Streetcar Series web site and check out some stuff. the next closest run is Run to Music City in Nashville in a few weeks. ALOT of run time!
 
..seems Firm Feel have purpose built A bodies for Auto Cross racing...i'm sure they could shed some useful insight.
anybody using their products like to comment?
 
I think my biggest problem is going to be the steering. It seems that my only options are the Flaming River manual box, or the Borgeson power box. Im simply not willing to give up my manifolds just yet, and not willing to spend a grand on headers that may or may not fit with my column/shifter linkage setup. Anybody tried the Borgeson box yet? How does it compare in size to the manual box?
 
What ive got now. Magnum manifolds
 

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This book has numerous amounts of information on our A Body cars. I've had mine for many years but, you can buy yours here... [ame="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BIXK34"]Mopar Suspensions; Complete Guide For Building Mopar Suspensions For Street, Autocross and Road Racing: Mike Martin: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]

I have not a clue why this link doesn't work from here. Book is called Mopar Suspensions and came out in 1984, its
Mopar Suspensions; Complete Guide For Building Mopar Suspensions For Street, Autocross and Road Racing


by [ame="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books&field-author=Mike%20Martin&sort=relevancerank"]Mike Martin[/ame] (Author)

Google it

by [ame="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=ntt_athr_dp_sr_1?_encoding=UTF8&search-alias=books&field-author=Mike%20Martin&sort=relevancerank"]Mike Martin[/ame] (Author)
 
Don't know about the Borgeson, but the Flaming River box has about the same footprint as the Mopar, should clear the manifolds. Mancini still had a few 20:1 worm/nut sets for the Mopar box last time I looked.
 
I think my biggest problem is going to be the steering. It seems that my only options are the Flaming River manual box, or the Borgeson power box. Im simply not willing to give up my manifolds just yet, and not willing to spend a grand on headers that may or may not fit with my column/shifter linkage setup. Anybody tried the Borgeson box yet? How does it compare in size to the manual box?

Do a search on Moparts (corners are best) as well as here for progress on Borgessen box. Bergman is or will be selling what is needed to bolt in with no machining. ( I don't always agree with Peter about car set up, but I've never heard anything bad about the quality of his work and his car is nicely done. ) There may be photos in the magazine article the E-berger wrote up. IF I go to Carlisle, there's probably some examples I can look at and photo.

I gather there is (again) a shortage of 16:1 worm gears for our saginaw boxes. Even so, they turn up, especially because the steering effort is not everyone's cup of tea. Don't be afraid to put a 20:1 worm in if that's all you can do for now. I used a 20:1 in the orgiinal /6 manual box for a long time until I was fortunate to find a seller of a 16:1 box.

On an early A the header choices are very limited. Off the shelf, just two choices, which I think are OK with the column shift but not sure - especially if your using the shifter arrangements that came with those cars. I bet the 318 would run great with 1.5" primaries, which help clearance especially if pinched into the collector (like Headers by Ed). But it would be a project and $$$.
 
here are TheCraigMachine magnum pics in a Narrow A, just fixed the links. Is the U-joint for clearance as the stocker box coupler is too fat for the magnums or is it a fitment for the new DD shaft?


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I am running a 73 Dart in CAM class here in NC. Tons of mods and power upgrades.

Total suspension upgrades, bushings, shocks, swaybars. Magnum 360 fresh build with cam, EQ heads and air gap intake, Doug's Headers, Holly 750 dp. 315x35x18 rear tires. 275x30x18 front tires

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First event is at ZMax in Concord NC March 4th. Any members come out get free ride!!!
 
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