Some alignment help needed please.

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About the only advice I can give you now is look through the shop manual and look for bent, broken, work parts, bushings, or ball joints.

Moog makes "offset" top bushings to give you more camber / caster adjustment
 
Toe-out is very dangerous and will make it wander, which was probably your problem. You probably could have seen that by sighting along the wheels with a 2x4 to see where they align on the rear wheels (if the widths are the same).

Every time I have had a pull to one side, it was in the tires. Indeed, I have a hard time seeing how a mis-alignment could make it pull to one side.

I agree with first going for max caster - rear UCA's max in, front UCA's max out. Then adjust for camber. Seem like moving the front in or the rear out would mess up the caster about the same amount, but most say to move the rear out. Using Moog "problem solver" offset bushings helps, but ignore their instructions which are opposite how you should install them. I used them just at the rear to save cost.

Toe-in is fairly easy to measure and adjust, and you should check that every 5 years since it is affected by ride height. If you have tires with straight channels, you can do it with a tape measure as I do (fwd to aft difference across front tires). I measure to where <1/8 turn of the steering coupler makes a difference, which is probably the best resolution the laser machines can do. The tricky part is splitting the difference left to right so the steering wheel is centered, and remembering which way to rotate the coupler. Make sure you get the tie rod balls centered before you tighten the couplers.
 
lilcuda said:
Yep. Went through the engines program in 1987 - 1988. Worked as a machinist for 10 years, then got into I.T.
Click to expand...

Oh ok I took the machining class. Well the night class currently trying to take the morning class. More hands on .
 
Factory Service Manual details procedure of setting correct ride height of front suspension. Follow it, as measuring from different body parts, and rubber bump stops, side to side won&#8217;t get the job done.

Once suspension members, not body parts, are at correct relation to each other, and within allowable side to side tolerance, than setting caster, camber, and lastly toe can be made. Then center steering wheel by adjusting position of tie rod ends, and re checking caster, camber, and toe. After a bit of frigging around you will get it dialed in.
 
I think you might be using the wrong terms on your camber. Download the fsm and read the how to set ride height section. You don't measure to the bumpstops. If your car really had 3.3 degrees of camber you would be in trouble.
 
I did screw up the height adjustment no doubt.Also upon closer inspection found the bottom right rear leaf spring looks like question mark right before the forward mount like someone put a jack under it and bent it.Going to set the ride height properly(finally got the FSM to download) and get it as close as possible until I can change the rear springs.
 
I have alignment now but the car is lopsided due to worn and bent leaf springs.Will change them out as soon as I can.I think if I learned one thing from all this, its that your car is only going to be as good as your weakest part.It doesn't pay to put lipstick on a pig.From here on out I'm going to take my time and do things right.I created a lot more work for myself by not doing a thorough inspection first. Hope that helps some of the younger guys.Thanks FABO members for your help!I couldn't get this stuff done without you...... :prayer:
 
Well for the good, you learned a heck of a lot, and when you get all the weak/ busted parts replaced, and then realigned, you'll know what to expect and where to go.
 
:mrgreen:Quick update:

Rear springs are replaced and car drives straight and true. bump.......:eek:ccasion::burnout::evil4:
 
Cool. And since you are in AZ, you can probably have some fun this winter while us poor bastards up here are....................

24xm4k7.jpg
 
When I took my Barracuda to my tire store for its alignment, I took the chart posted for the typ. street performance driving. Just out of curiousity, we went through the electronic menu and found that the oldest rear wheel drive mopar in the system (if I remember correctly, it was a 1985 Dodge Monaco) had the exact measurements on the chart and made it real easy to set the Barracuda to those specs. My car, with new BFG radial T/As drives beautifully.

289d4j7.jpg
 
rob_robinson87 said:
When I took my Barracuda to my tire store for its alignment, I took the chart posted for the typ. street performance driving. Just out of curiousity, we went through the electronic menu and found that the oldest rear wheel drive mopar in the system (if I remember correctly, it was a 1985 Dodge Monaco) had the exact measurements on the chart and made it real easy to set the Barracuda to those specs. My car, with new BFG radial T/As drives beautifully.

289d4j7.jpg
Click to expand...
I thought about that but just bought my own equipment instead.Now I can do my own alignment any time I feel the need.:glasses7:
 
BillGrissom said:
Toe-out is very dangerous and will make it wander, which was probably your problem. You probably could have seen that by sighting along the wheels with a 2x4 to see where they align on the rear wheels (if the widths are the same).

Every time I have had a pull to one side, it was in the tires. Indeed, I have a hard time seeing how a mis-alignment could make it pull to one side.

I agree with first going for max caster - rear UCA's max in, front UCA's max out. Then adjust for camber. Seem like moving the front in or the rear out would mess up the caster about the same amount, but most say to move the rear out. Using Moog "problem solver" offset bushings helps, but ignore their instructions which are opposite how you should install them. I used them just at the rear to save cost.

Toe-in is fairly easy to measure and adjust, and you should check that every 5 years since it is affected by ride height. If you have tires with straight channels, you can do it with a tape measure as I do (fwd to aft difference across front tires). I measure to where <1/8 turn of the steering coupler makes a difference, which is probably the best resolution the laser machines can do. The tricky part is splitting the difference left to right so the steering wheel is centered, and remembering which way to rotate the coupler. Make sure you get the tie rod balls centered before you tighten the couplers.
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I know this thread is old, Maybe someone will hop on, When you guy's talk about "rear max in" and the "front max out"... Which way is in and out.. Sorry for the dumb question, Thanks
 
Keith1970dart said:
I know this thread is old, Maybe someone will hop on, When you guy's talk about "rear max in" and the "front max out"... Which way is in and out.. Sorry for the dumb question, Thanks
Click to expand...
The upper a-arm adjustments, attempting to get most positive caster. Max on both sides may not be possible, because it is important the caster angles match on both sides, and camber needs met too. The unit body mount locations are not always perfect, that is why there are adjustments.
 
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KitCarlson said:
The upper a-arm adjustments, attempting to get most positive caster. Max on both sides may not be possible, because it is important the caster angles match on both sides, and camber needs met too. The unit body mount locations are not always perfect, that is why there are adjustments.
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Thanks, sorry I wasnt real clear on what I am dealing with, I put Tubular Uppers on my 70 Dart with the disc brake kit, and just need to understand a good starting point for where to set the cam bolts.. Is all the way out away from the car and is all the way in towards the car? Thanks for the fast reply, trying to driving this thing, its been on "Ice" for 20 yrs
 
Some tubular arms have adjustments in ends.

The upper A-arm connects to spindle at ball joint. If the A-arm is moved in to chassis, negative camber results. If the rear of A-arm mount goes in, and front out, that rotates the A-arm slightly so the ball joint moves to the rear, creating more positive caster.

Adjustments are inter-related. Ride height, toe-in, caster, and camber. Understanding geometry, making accurate measurements, rolling and bouncing car, re-tuning as necessary and spending time, results in great driving car.
 
One of the members (Jim Lusk) posted this is a good place to start

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Front end alignment help please ??

"Have them start with the front cam all the way out and the rear cam all the way in. Move the rear cam out until camber is in spec (1/2 deg. neg is good). This is the most positive caster that is available without new parts (offset bushings, tubular upper control arms, etc.). All of this is AFTER setting ride height. I usually set ride height with about an inch between the LCA bumper and the frame, then even the sides up."
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The above is in part because it's difficult to get enough caster on these girls. Also use the AllPar "skosh chart" for alignment

proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fi42.tinypic.com%2F289d4j7.jpg


If you look at the adjusters you can visualize what they do....the front one points the upper arm further back and out as the cam comes out.

The rear one, as the cam comes out, pulls the upper arm further outboard, but moves it towards the front

You want "more caster" meaning the upper joint moved towards the rear, leaning the spindle "back" at the top

Camber --if you are running radial tires--- you want the top of the tire leaning IN
 
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67Dart273 said:
One of the members (Jim Lusk) posted this is a good place to start

================================================
Front end alignment help please ??

"Have them start with the front cam all the way out and the rear cam all the way in. Move the rear cam out until camber is in spec (1/2 deg. neg is good). This is the most positive caster that is available without new parts (offset bushings, tubular upper control arms, etc.). All of this is AFTER setting ride height. I usually set ride height with about an inch between the LCA bumper and the frame, then even the sides up."
===========================================

The above is in part because it's difficult to get enough caster on these girls. Also use the AllPar "skosh chart" for alignment

View attachment 1715062183

If you look at the adjusters you can visualize what they do....the front one points the upper arm further back and out as the cam comes out.

The rear one, as the cam comes out, pulls the upper arm further outboard, but moves it towards the front

You want "more caster" meaning the upper joint moved towards the rear, leaning the spindle "back" at the top

Camber --if you are running radial tires--- you want the top of the tire leaning IN
Click to expand...
Thanks for explaining it so clear, I will dial her in this evening and check back in.. Thank all
 
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