Spark Plug Torque Specs

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WSUTARD

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The FSM states 30 foot pounds for the spark plug torque. I started but stopped because it doesn't feel right to me. Can anyone confirm the torque specs?
 
WSUTARD said:
The FSM states 30 foot pounds for the spark plug torque. I started but stopped because it doesn't feel right to me. Can anyone confirm the torque specs?
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What year and engine? It probably doesn't make make a difference but just in case. I never torqued mine. Just snug with a 3/8" ratchet.
 
All I do is tighten them just enough to crush the washer, plus a little more. It's easy to feel.
 
No way in hell would I torque them to 30.
 
pishta said:
finger tight, then 1/2 turn. 1/16 without gasket.
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That's a great rule of thumb. People forget that a spark plug is nothing more than a HOLLOW bolt.
 
The specs are confirmed by the FSM and Autolite. The Autolite chart shows finger tight then 1/2 turn is in the range of the torque.
 
WSUTARD said:
The specs are confirmed by the FSM and Autolite. The Autolite chart shows finger tight then 1/2 turn is in the range of the torque.
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Good for the FSM and Autolite. I will stick with my 42 years of experience. Never had a plug fall out.
 
I've never "torqued to spec" a spark plug. Just by feel.....
 
Go by feel. I do the finger tight (or if its difficult to get to with fingers I do "snug", which is just as soon as you feel any resistance). Then the 1/2 turn to crush the washer if its there. Like others said. Make sure you use anti seize for easy removal later.

Even if they are finger "snug", you're not gunna have problems. The only way you'll have problems is if you only spin the plug 1/4 of the way in.
 
Just in case another opinion is needed, :D plugs with a washer I tighten until I feel the resistance increase after the washer is crushed.
Non washers I tighten to about.......that much. LOL
I ALWAYS use antiseize on all of them with any metals.

The guy I bought my car from apparently thought he would be safe and stop when the washer touched the head. :D
I swear, every dang bolt on my car was only finger tight when I got it, motor mounts, ujoint straps, plugs, radiator mountings, everything.
Almost like he knew where the parts went but didn't have any tools. LOL
 
69_340_GTS said:
15 ft/lb on aluminum heads. And yes, use anti-seize.
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Totally agree!

Not long ago I did a plug change on my wife's car with aluminum heads with over 100,000 miles. NGK plugs were in it and they say they have a coating already on the plugs, so you don't need neverseeze. 20 FT. Lbs. without, but if you use it, 15 Ft. Lbs. with neverseeze.

Of course I used Kroil penetrating oil to get them out. Not chancing their film. They were tight. You don't want a hot plug, and take your time. Warm it and cool it, no problem. Seems like I was brought up on neverseeze and the orange can, Kroil.
 
When I was young my Dad worked on Johnson / Evinrude outboards, and a few other orphans in our small town. The NAPA store had the Johnson consignment. (He used to cuss some of them, seems like Atwater-Kent was one, or maybe it was Scott-Atwater)

I learned EARLY that you don't overtighten plugs. Many, MANY outboards, lawnmowers, and other small engines have SHORT reach ALUMINUM heads. It is REAL easy to strip those.
 
I'll have to check and make sure that this was an actual question and not a joke...
Don't forget to put anti seize on your muffler bearings either...:realcrazy:
 
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