Splayed main caps on a 360?

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Cope said:
My guy is good. The bad news is he is super expensive. The only reason I can afford him is that when im not crazy busy i go nextdoor to his shop and do all the stuff he dont want to do for free. (Wiring, installation, plumbing, ect.)


Just got my new power probe 4 and ect 3000 a few days ago. Cant wait to use it. Got two wiring jobs coming up.
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yeah I just bashed the bridge of my nose today on a 69 Ford Wagon trying to get the wiring back under the dash for a customer of mine..
I'll p. M. You something when I see the heads pop up or just mentioned something on the four more I made text you actually would be a better idea...
They should be $510 to the door for the set..
 
Please do send me a text. Im not on here as much lately due to work.

Check out the power probe 4, pro combo.

Mine was 250.00 off amazon. I super excited to have a wiring issue jist so i can test it out!
 
Cope said:
Please do send me a text. Im not on here as much lately due to work.

Check out the power probe 4, pro combo.

Mine was 250.00 off amazon. I super excited to have a wiring issue jist so i can test it out!
Click to expand...
That's why I said give you a text.. don't see ya much, but I know you're busy...:thumbsup:..
Good night...
 
Cope said:
My guy is good. The bad news is he is super expensive. The only reason I can afford him is that when im not crazy busy i go nextdoor to his shop and do all the stuff he dont want to do for free. (Wiring, installation, plumbing, ect.)


Just got my new power probe 4 and ect 3000 a few days ago. Cant wait to use it. Got two wiring jobs coming up.
Click to expand...
I have the 3 and the circuit tracer. Awesome tools. Have had them a long time. The ect is invaluable for open circuits.
 
Cope said:
Good night bud, I hope you have hero snow, sharp skis, big lugs and the power to keep the front in the air!

https://www.amazon.com/POWER-PROBE-...t=&hvlocphy=9032143&hvtargid=pla-536859611168
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IMG_00501-2.jpg

Good morning! I got that all covered! Just need the "hero snow" and thank you...
 
j par said:
Officially he is a teenage girl with a stack of her father's hot rod magazines giving us information... Until proven different...
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LOL! You'll get your cheeseburger. The doctors have logistically cornholed me blind. Again.

I'd be going home today were it not for a super good dude coming over Sunday to fix my distributor machine.

Then I have to be back here on December 3 for my own doctor appointment and then stay because the surgery is now on for the 10th if the don't change it again.

So, 2019 is going out the way it came in. Breech. Hopefully 2020 turns a corner.
 
yellow rose said:
LOL! You'll get your cheeseburger. The doctors have logistically cornholed me blind. Again.

I'd be going home today were it not for a super good dude coming over Sunday to fix my distributor machine.

Then I have to be back here on December 3 for my own doctor appointment and then stay because the surgery is now on for the 10th if the don't change it again.

So, 2019 is going out the way it came in. Breech. Hopefully 2020 turns a corner.
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Okay until then you'll be good for your parents and work hard in school...
 
I get the feeling you know way better than me. DON'T DO IT! Put a friggin girdle on that thing and call it a day.
 
When i put my main cap studs in my stroker, the stud under the oil pump won't fit. And arp don't sell the right one to fix it. That will take a little work to fix.

The stock main bolts have a taper to them so that the main cap can shift a little.... i had 0 thrust clearance because of this. had to enlarge the main cap hole so that the main cap/thrust bearing shell was inline with the one in the block.
You won't be building this motor, but just some food for thought on the main studs.

Most people just put the old main cap bolt back in the #5 main cap under the oil pump. i had some machining done on the main cap, stud, and oil pump so that the stud could be used.
 
Cudafever said:
When i put my main cap studs in my stroker, the stud under the oil pump won't fit. And arp don't sell the right one to fix it. That will take a little work to fix.

The stock main bolts have a taper to them so that the main cap can shift a little.... i had 0 thrust clearance because of this. had to enlarge the main cap hole so that the main cap/thrust bearing shell was inline with the one in the block.
You won't be building this motor, but just some food for thought on the main studs.

Most people just put the old main cap bolt back in the #5 main cap under the oil pump. i had some machining done on the main cap, stud, and oil pump so that the stud could be used.
Click to expand...

This is what I did on mine.

Another thing is to "detail" the caps. By this I mean deburr and chamfer the edges, thus eliminating stress risers. I use maroon 3MRolock discs on a right angle die grinder for this job, works nice.
 
The last thing you need to worry about is your air charge temp.... I'd worry more about the heat treat, valve guides and metallurgy on those SM heads.
 
I will not be doing any work to this besides assembly while my buddy looks over my shoulder.

My know how is welding, electrical and mechanics, not machines.

He owes me a lot so im calling in all my favors on this build. Im in no hurry, my car runs and drives now. Im just looking for advice on building the best small block that i can build.
 
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