SS Spring Advice

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Pana.Mopar said:
Should I try different shocks, spring clamps, slapper bars or Caltracs?
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Hard to tell in the video (and yes the pictures are distracting in a nice way) - but can you tell if the weight transfering on launch? Maybe getting a little more wt on the right rear by raising the ft left? Other thing used by my co-worker years ago was to slightly pre-load the pinion snubber. He also removed the rear spring clamps - but I don't think you need to do that - he was running quicker with a heavier car and slicks, no street use. On launch the front wheels would come up maybe 6" to a foot and chassis was level... I wish I had the photo to share...
 
I think Im going to have to experiment a bit. To be honest perhaps the rear of the car needs to be lowered a little for weight transfer as the SS springs have jacked it up a lot.
 
That car doesn't sit bad considering the springs are too heavy.

You do have them on the correct sides, yes?
 
Pana.Mopar said:
I think Im going to have to experiment a bit. To be honest perhaps the rear of the car needs to be lowered a little for weight transfer as the SS springs have jacked it up a lot.
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Yes some experimenting may be needed. But first check all the basics such as pinion angle, shackel angle,( yes correct sides for right and left leafs). I don't see hieght per se as important (for what your doing). It's the front spring eye position and the geometry that you *might* want to adjust.

Some good reading at ST on old school leaf spring setups from a few people with experience
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=13215
including Chrysler engineer Billy Shope.
 
Did you make sure to get all of the rear spring torque values correct? The spring U bolts that hold the springs and plates to the rear axle ONLY torque to 45 LB FT. This is critical. Over tightening them will not allow the springs their proper travel.

Also, all torqueing MUST be done with the weight of the car ON THE TIRES. In other words, ALL rear spring fasteners MUST be LOOSE when the car hits the ground and THEN torqued to proper spec. Failure to do this WILL RESULT in a binding and pretty much worthless rear suspension.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Did you make sure to get all of the rear spring torque values correct? The spring U bolts that hold the springs and plates to the rear axle ONLY torque to 45 LB FT. This is critical. Over tightening them will not allow the springs their proper travel. Also, all torqueing MUST be done with the weight of the car ON THE TIRES. In other words, ALL rear spring fasteners MUST be LOOSE when the car hits the ground and THEN torqued to proper spec. Failure to do this WILL RESULT in a binding and pretty much worthless rear suspension.
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Thats a fair point. I'll have to check this as well and see whats happening there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Did you make sure to get all of the rear spring torque values correct? The spring U bolts that hold the springs and plates to the rear axle ONLY torque to 45 LB FT. This is critical. Over tightening them will not allow the springs their proper travel.

Also, all torqueing MUST be done with the weight of the car ON THE TIRES. In other words, ALL rear spring fasteners MUST be LOOSE when the car hits the ground and THEN torqued to proper spec. Failure to do this WILL RESULT in a binding and pretty much worthless rear suspension.
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Pana, THIS DOES MAKE A DIFFERECE... Done the air gun/hand tightened idea ,with the car in the air,on jack stands... Thanks,Rob.. Much appreciated..
 
To be honest, I think I did that. I put the springs on up in the air and with rattle gun. I didnt even think of torque settings for the bolts.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Did you make sure to get all of the rear spring torque values correct? The spring U bolts that hold the springs and plates to the rear axle ONLY torque to 45 LB FT. This is critical. Over tightening them will not allow the springs their proper travel. Also, all torqueing MUST be done with the weight of the car ON THE TIRES. In other words, ALL rear spring fasteners MUST be LOOSE when the car hits the ground and THEN torqued to proper spec. Failure to do this WILL RESULT in a binding and pretty much worthless rear suspension.
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Thanks for that Rusty. So are you just talking about torquing the 4 x U-Bolts only? I will get out and do this. I'll loosen the eight bolts and out the car on the ground and torque to soecs.
 
Pana.Mopar said:
To be honest, I think I did that. I put the springs on up in the air and with rattle gun. I didnt even think of torque settings for the bolts.
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I did this with the 002/003 springs,with aluminum lowering blocks ('92.. ) .Absolutely cracked two sets of lowering blocks.. Still didn't look ,then. You learn,it's the small details....
 
Abodybomber said:
I did this with the 002/003 springs,with aluminum lowering blocks ('92.. ) .Absolutely cracked two sets of lowering blocks.. Still didn't look ,then. You learn,it's the small details....
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Man, I know. Didnt even think about it. I will get this sorted as well.
 
All good points. I think you also should make use of the pinion snubber.
 
Bad Sport said:
Pinion snubber with SS springs? Why?
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Pretty much guarentees the weight will transfer without delay during the launch. I'm not saying its the only way. Much discussion about it and other techniques in combo and alone in that Speedtalk thread linked above. The posts from Tuner and Billy Shope in particular.
 
I didn't think there would be enough spring wrap in the SS springs for the snubber to even come into play.
 
Yes. That's what I would think too! Problem is we're not there so its really hard to see what's going on. Is it tire not sticky enough or is it suspension or ? Anyway, if the pinion or shackle angle, or something else is messing up the anti-squat line, I think it can squat even without the front half of the spring really wrapping.
 
I have always torqued the front eye bolts and u bolt nuts and shackles while on the ground. Just break them all loose on the ground and then retorque them. That should do it.
 
Yes Rusty. I should add for clarity that I totally agree on checking all the basics and running the readjusted setup before making any other changes! My suggestions were not meant to encourage multiple changes at once.
 
Change one thing at a time until you figure it out.....That way you will know what gives you the best results......
 
I'm actually going to put 1.5" - 2.0" lowering blocks in it anyways as it's sitting way too high and same with the front so will put new U-Bolts as well and do the correct adjustments and see how it goes.
 
Pana.Mopar said:
I'm actually going to put 1.5" - 2.0" lowering blocks in it anyways as it's sitting way too high and same with the front so will put new U-Bolts as well and do the correct adjustments and see how it goes.
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You're not taking all this in. IF you tightened the springs with the suspension hanging free, THIS could WELL BE why you are sitting too high. Do the recommended retorque FIRST and go from there. You MAY NOT need lowering blocks.
 
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